Ucd400 Q & A
Hi,
I thought it an appropriate time to start this thread.
I've read before there were two versions of the UCD400 being develloped at the same time.
Which is currently available, will there still be another version comming out soon, if so what can we expect on it should we wait that we won't find on the currently available version?
Exactly what kind of protection does it feature? Overcurrent? DC? etc.
I've a question about the order form as well but I'll ask that privately in email.
I'd like to comment on the picture used on the webpage, it's very dark, especially the one that pops up when you pass your cursor over it
Do the drivers for it feature adaptive dead time?
Are there any other ways in which it differs from the UCD180, filter, input..?
What op amps does it use in the input stage?
That's it for now, thanks alot.
Chris
Hi,
I thought it an appropriate time to start this thread.
I've read before there were two versions of the UCD400 being develloped at the same time.
Which is currently available, will there still be another version comming out soon, if so what can we expect on it should we wait that we won't find on the currently available version?
Exactly what kind of protection does it feature? Overcurrent? DC? etc.
I've a question about the order form as well but I'll ask that privately in email.
I'd like to comment on the picture used on the webpage, it's very dark, especially the one that pops up when you pass your cursor over it
Do the drivers for it feature adaptive dead time?
Are there any other ways in which it differs from the UCD180, filter, input..?
What op amps does it use in the input stage?
That's it for now, thanks alot.
Chris
Hi,
Just had a thought regarding (yes..aaaagain) the colo(u)r of the heatsink.
Would black not be the optimal choice since it is best at radiating heat? I think it would be important to go for the optimal choice here since no one wants to go with forced air, and the cooler it runs the better.
Have you ever tested to see what the actual difference between black or the dark blue it currently is?
I'm also curious as to why you want to go with a UCD700 now, originally you were deciding ~700/900. 700 doesn't seem like a worthwhile jump from 400, but 900/1000 is.
Thanks alot
Just had a thought regarding (yes..aaaagain) the colo(u)r of the heatsink.
Would black not be the optimal choice since it is best at radiating heat? I think it would be important to go for the optimal choice here since no one wants to go with forced air, and the cooler it runs the better.
Have you ever tested to see what the actual difference between black or the dark blue it currently is?
I'm also curious as to why you want to go with a UCD700 now, originally you were deciding ~700/900. 700 doesn't seem like a worthwhile jump from 400, but 900/1000 is.
Thanks alot
Hi Guys,
All answers in one time, I hope
There is at the moment only one version available, you can see the actual version on the website, we will make the picture more lighter.
Picture was edited on a laptop.......
The version is with JST connectors, this connector can handle 10Arms. We supply with every shipment a JST cableset.
The protections are;
Overcurrent
Overvoltage
When there is a overcurrent/overvoltage it shuts down the amp for 1-2 sec.
There is an adjustment for the Idle current, we will adjust this for the best performance.
We use now an OPA2134 opamp and the inputimpedance is 100K, and no coupling caps anymore. (sorry for the mods guys)
The T-shape aluminium is blue and need to be connected to an alumnium frontplate/mountingplate or whatsover. To change the colour to
black has no advantage at all. You can't use the T-shape to cool the amp in free air, it must be connected to a frontplate/mountingplate.
Besides this the blue colour is pretty dark
There will be some heat generated by the internal regulators and outputchoke so you must have some free air cooling around the pcb.
Please put some holes for free airventlation in your housing, a fan is ofcourse unnecessary.
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
www.hypex.nl
All answers in one time, I hope
There is at the moment only one version available, you can see the actual version on the website, we will make the picture more lighter.
Picture was edited on a laptop.......
The version is with JST connectors, this connector can handle 10Arms. We supply with every shipment a JST cableset.
The protections are;
Overcurrent
Overvoltage
When there is a overcurrent/overvoltage it shuts down the amp for 1-2 sec.
There is an adjustment for the Idle current, we will adjust this for the best performance.
We use now an OPA2134 opamp and the inputimpedance is 100K, and no coupling caps anymore. (sorry for the mods guys)
The T-shape aluminium is blue and need to be connected to an alumnium frontplate/mountingplate or whatsover. To change the colour to
black has no advantage at all. You can't use the T-shape to cool the amp in free air, it must be connected to a frontplate/mountingplate.
Besides this the blue colour is pretty dark
There will be some heat generated by the internal regulators and outputchoke so you must have some free air cooling around the pcb.
Please put some holes for free airventlation in your housing, a fan is ofcourse unnecessary.
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
www.hypex.nl
Thanks for the reply.
Adjustment for idle current? I guess that explains the pot I see on it. How does that affect the rest of the circuit (feedback loop/ripple etc) or is this just for the protection circuit?
Would it ever need to be tweaked or could I drop some epoxy on it?
Glad to hear you're including all the connectors for it and those mods to the input sound good to me too
Cheers to you, Jan-Peter.
Adjustment for idle current? I guess that explains the pot I see on it. How does that affect the rest of the circuit (feedback loop/ripple etc) or is this just for the protection circuit?
Would it ever need to be tweaked or could I drop some epoxy on it?
Glad to hear you're including all the connectors for it and those mods to the input sound good to me too
Cheers to you, Jan-Peter.
Chris,
The Idle current adjustment is an adjustment for the Dead Time. The lower the DT the higher the Idle current.
Hereby an acutal measurement with different Idle current settings.
You can easy which version you like the most
www.hypex.nl/UcD400-40_50_60mA_OPA2134.wmf
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
www.hypex.nl
The Idle current adjustment is an adjustment for the Dead Time. The lower the DT the higher the Idle current.
Hereby an acutal measurement with different Idle current settings.
You can easy which version you like the most
www.hypex.nl/UcD400-40_50_60mA_OPA2134.wmf
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
www.hypex.nl
Jan-Peter said:Chris,
The Idle current adjustment is an adjustment for the Dead Time. The lower the DT the higher the Idle current.
Hereby an acutal measurement with different Idle current settings.
You can easy which version you like the most
www.hypex.nl/UcD400-40_50_60mA_OPA2134.wmf
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
www.hypex.nl
Hi Jan-Peter,
So that variable resistor is for the dead-time, very interesting, I`m afraid a lot of tweakers will play with that setting and maybe some tweakers will blow up the output stage when they change this Class D amp to a Class A setting
I assume the lowest distortion graph is for the highest idle currrent setting. Very impressive, down to 0.003%. Very good that the coupling caps are gone, saves me a few bucks and don`t have to worry anymore about them. However, there maybe some other caps that can still be tweaked for people that really want to use their stock of BG caps.Anyway, looking forward to these modules, I`ll order a couple of them later, just burning in my UcD180`s and these are really very good. I use them now in my active system and I have the best sound I have ever heard in my living room. They stay clean even at high levels, last night my wife complained afterwards that my music was too loud (she tried to sleep
), louder than normal. This is just because everything stays so clean, you turn up the volume further than you used to do, and it is so easy if you have a remote control volume pot.Best regards and lots of succes with these modules
gertjan
Gertjan,
You bring up a good point, perhaps we must put some glue on the pot to avoid the Class-D will go to Class-A.
No, the best THD curve, in the 5W, area is the middle adjustment
I am glad you enjoy the UcD180, with the UcD400 in your active setup you will have even more fun.......
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
You bring up a good point, perhaps we must put some glue on the pot to avoid the Class-D will go to Class-A
.No, the best THD curve, in the 5W, area is the middle adjustment
I am glad you enjoy the UcD180, with the UcD400 in your active setup you will have even more fun.......
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
Jan-Peter said:Gertjan,
You bring up a good point, perhaps we must put some glue on the pot to avoid the Class-D will go to Class-A
No, the best THD curve, in the 5W, area is the middle adjustment
I am glad you enjoy the UcD180, with the UcD400 in your active setup you will have even more fun.......
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
Hi Jan-Peter,
If the middle setting gives the best result, it may indeed by wise to put some glue on the pot. Then real hard-core tweakers can still solder that pot out and put another one in, but then it is fully their responsibility if they screw things up.
Best regards
Gertjan
Jan-Peter said:Gertjan,
You bring up a good point, perhaps we must put some glue on the pot to avoid the Class-D will go to Class-A
No, the best THD curve, in the 5W, area is the middle adjustment
I am glad you enjoy the UcD180, with the UcD400 in your active setup you will have even more fun.......
Cheers,
Jan-Peter
Hi, thanks for those graphs.
Yeah that's exactly why I asked if it was OK to drop some epoxy on it. If people see a pot the first thing they do is grab a screwdriver and give it a turn. Question is can the pot adjust the deadtime to a point that can be detrimental to the output stage or is just a "fine" tune adjustment that wouldn't really matter? If it's the second you can leave putting epoxy on up to the user, if not, you'll save yourself some money and hassle by gluing it at the factory.
Thanks
PS: Great job on the pictures, that's much better.
First thing I'd do with that pot is mark it to preserve the factory preset, provided it isn't already.
Other thought, you've all seen em, "if torn warranty void" stickers, that'd be ideal!
Saves Jan-Peter any hassles, and anyone so inclined can tear it off and tweak it to their liking without needing to order the correct replacement pot, less hassles all around.
Other thought, you've all seen em, "if torn warranty void" stickers, that'd be ideal!
Saves Jan-Peter any hassles, and anyone so inclined can tear it off and tweak it to their liking without needing to order the correct replacement pot, less hassles all around.
Hi,
I've been pricing some power transformers, 40V rms secondaries at 650, 750 and 1000 VA. I think for two modules off one transformer I'd want at least 650VA.
So my question is this:
I've found "low noise" transformers offered, they don't even say what is different about them, such as any screens, magnetic shielding, or otherwise.
What is different is they're triple the cost of a regular one.
What's the consensus on having such a "low noise" transformer. Is it a must have? Is it a joke? Is it worth the extra cost? Would you notice any difference at all?
Now what I found was just marketing hype, no specifications offered or anything, so I'll also ask, how important is any screen /shielding as well, and we'll consider that to be low noise for the purpose of this part of the discussion.
Thanks
I've been pricing some power transformers, 40V rms secondaries at 650, 750 and 1000 VA. I think for two modules off one transformer I'd want at least 650VA.
So my question is this:
I've found "low noise" transformers offered, they don't even say what is different about them, such as any screens, magnetic shielding, or otherwise.
What is different is they're triple the cost of a regular one.
What's the consensus on having such a "low noise" transformer. Is it a must have? Is it a joke? Is it worth the extra cost? Would you notice any difference at all?
Now what I found was just marketing hype, no specifications offered or anything, so I'll also ask, how important is any screen /shielding as well, and we'll consider that to be low noise for the purpose of this part of the discussion.
Thanks