classd4sure said:I love these caps, JensensI just hate 95% of my material now... too revealing? No such thing! Recordings not up to par? Yes. Notice how spartan the supply is? Sounds great just like that. May tweak it later of course, few extra caps and that's about it.
I'm in the same predicament as you, I'd like it DC coupled for XLR and as far as bringing my amp anyway, odds are not many have XLR outputs anyway, they can use the RCA's AC coupled, one cap per channel. I haven't figured out an elegant way of doing that yet though.
Cheers
Nothing wrong with the look of your amp, I may hardwire all my psu caps to start with whilst trying to decide which caps I like best, once thats sorted and I know the footprint I can make a couple of boards
I never thought about the JJ's, people do like the higher voltage ones in tube gear so I may have a look at these, I bet they wasn't cheap
I'm waiting for some Aerovox ALP20 I got off E-bay to try, I'm currently using some Samwah audiogrades for now, I've also got some cheap 22,000uf Rifa PEH200
For the input I've just wired it up as balanced using an XLR, the lead is XLR plug one end and phono plug the other with both the ground and - joined together which goes into my passive pre-amp
ATB!
I was just browsing through the threads and came across one where you guys was discussing to use single or dual rectifiers
Last night I had the UCD180's being run with duals per module using MBR20200,today I decided to take out the pair of diy cap6 modules I built out of my AvondaleNCC200 amp and try them out with the UCD180's
Each Cap6 board should be used with a CT transformer so I fitted both of my 0v wires to the ground, they use a single rectifier with MBR20200, theres 3x 6800uf Samwah caps which I fitted per rail, each cap is coupled with a low value choke (2 chokes per rail)
These also sounded very good with the UCD180, the amp is ghostly quite, not a hint of hiss or hum through my ribbon tweeters, infact if it wasn't for the little blue led on the UCD modules you wouldn't know ithey was switched on
I'm going to compare these against the dual rectifiers later but the amp with this cap6 using single rectifiers sounds very good.
Now is this down to the chokes or single schottkies or layout
It looks like finding the best psu may take more work than I first thought
Last night I had the UCD180's being run with duals per module using MBR20200,today I decided to take out the pair of diy cap6 modules I built out of my AvondaleNCC200 amp and try them out with the UCD180's
Each Cap6 board should be used with a CT transformer so I fitted both of my 0v wires to the ground, they use a single rectifier with MBR20200, theres 3x 6800uf Samwah caps which I fitted per rail, each cap is coupled with a low value choke (2 chokes per rail)
These also sounded very good with the UCD180, the amp is ghostly quite, not a hint of hiss or hum through my ribbon tweeters, infact if it wasn't for the little blue led on the UCD modules you wouldn't know ithey was switched on
I'm going to compare these against the dual rectifiers later but the amp with this cap6 using single rectifiers sounds very good.
Now is this down to the chokes or single schottkies or layout
It looks like finding the best psu may take more work than I first thought
We settled that You must be reading way back.
I also tried a CT, did that first though, with a real cheap rectifier I ripped out of my old Pioneer amp, no bypassing nothing, was nothing special about that thing at all. It sounded great!
The duals are by far superior though. Shouldn't lose any sleep over sticking with that arrangement at all.
You must be reading way back.I also tried a CT, did that first though, with a real cheap rectifier I ripped out of my old Pioneer amp, no bypassing nothing, was nothing special about that thing at all. It sounded great!
The duals are by far superior though. Shouldn't lose any sleep over sticking with that arrangement at all.
classd4sure said:We settled that
I also tried a CT, did that first though, with a real cheap rectifier I ripped out of my old Pioneer amp, no bypassing nothing, was nothing special about that thing at all. It sounded great!
The duals are by far superior though. Shouldn't lose any sleep over sticking with that arrangement at all.
Sorry, I know I'm well behind
the threads are very very longIts my own fault, I should have brought these modules long ago.
I've had a rush of mails from some friends already, they are eager to see how the modules stack up against their expensive tube amps, there is a couple of solid state too
I am going to stick with duals, anyway it seems a waste not to try out these diodes, the main ones I want to compare is the MBR20200 against the MSR1560
Well I swapped the NE5532's to the AD8620's.
I've left the coupling caps in for now just to make it a fair comparison
The sound is not bad but the mids are now thicker and its lost clarity, it seems to sound slightly artificial to what it did with the NE5532
I am hoping when I remove the coupling caps some time tomorrow it will improve alot
I've left the coupling caps in for now just to make it a fair comparison
The sound is not bad but the mids are now thicker and its lost clarity, it seems to sound slightly artificial to what it did with the NE5532
I am hoping when I remove the coupling caps some time tomorrow it will improve alot
Hi,
I tried them side by side with the AD op amps, one AC coupled and the other DC coupled.
You can nearly feel the lack of DC bias required to make the electrolytic sound half decent, it sounded spongy.
Coloration of the cap was...noticeable, along with some raspyness They seemingly have twice the sound comming out of them that goes in.
I think you can expect the sound to even right out when you remove them, and you'll get to hear the op amps for the first time.
Look forward to your results.
Regards,
Chris
I tried them side by side with the AD op amps, one AC coupled and the other DC coupled.
You can nearly feel the lack of DC bias required to make the electrolytic sound half decent, it sounded spongy.
Coloration of the cap was...noticeable, along with some raspyness
They seemingly have twice the sound comming out of them that goes in.I think you can expect the sound to even right out when you remove them, and you'll get to hear the op amps for the first time.
Look forward to your results.
Regards,
Chris
Thanks Chris,
Well its obvious really isn't it, I should have remembered that a coupling cap will always sound better with some DC bias
Ok, so I've removed both caps and replaced them with copper links.
The DC offset is still low so thats good
After the first few minutes of listening you can hear the difference, the thick coloured mids have improved.
I still feel these AD8620's are still not totally neautral but now its much closer
Looking at the picture of Bruno's amp it seems he uses totally discrete ones
Anybody else tried to build their own or at least running the onboard ones with a separate regulator circuit?
Cheers
Leo
Well its obvious really isn't it, I should have remembered that a coupling cap will always sound better with some DC bias
Ok, so I've removed both caps and replaced them with copper links.
The DC offset is still low so thats good
After the first few minutes of listening you can hear the difference, the thick coloured mids have improved.
I still feel these AD8620's are still not totally neautral but now its much closer
Looking at the picture of Bruno's amp it seems he uses totally discrete ones
Anybody else tried to build their own or at least running the onboard ones with a separate regulator circuit?
Cheers
Leo
maxlorenz said:Dear Leo:
I remember 8620 need to limit PS to 12-13Volt max.
Did you implemented this?
Sorry to ask.
I hope your mod wiil sound better with some burn-in time.
Good luck.
Mauricio
Hi,
That's already done on new modules, all you have to do is swap the op amp.
Leo is right about the input stage too, you'd have to build a better discrete stage than the AD8620 to make it worthwhile though. Seperate supply and bias tweak will get it that extra edge yet.
Regards,
Chris
It will be nice that some of our big brothers post pics and diagrams to show where to do the connections for the external opamp PSU for the technically challenged among us
Personally, this week I will end UCD400 monoblock building
All I had the courage to do is get rid of the signal input caps. I soldered OCC copper (not the TV show ) 24AWG wire directly to the PCB. The holes are very little. I had to make it single wire.
Appart that I made cooper foils for the elcaps until I found good replacements.
Making monoblock is no joke Double work, double of everything!
Maybe adding a super low noise PS to the opamp will achieve a comparable result?
Thanks for sharing...
Mauricio
Personally, this week I will end UCD400 monoblock building
All I had the courage to do is get rid of the signal input caps. I soldered OCC copper (not the TV show
) 24AWG wire directly to the PCB. The holes are very little. I had to make it single wire.Appart that I made cooper foils for the elcaps until I found good replacements.
Making monoblock is no joke
Double work, double of everything!Maybe adding a super low noise PS to the opamp will achieve a comparable result?
Thanks for sharing...
Mauricio
I searched the forum and this thread, since this seems like a question that would have come up by now, but, no luck, so, I'm about to display shocking ignorance.
With the Hypex Softstart module, is it possible to use a push to make momentary pushbutton, such as the Bulgin MPI002 or MPI0037 (www.bulgin.co.uk), simply by wiring the pushbutton directly to the pushbutton fastons on the Softstart module? Or do I need to insert another "latching" component between the switch and the Softstart module?
Also, the datasheet for the Softstart module shows jumper settings for a pushbutton and 2 LEDs, or a switch and one bicolor LED... With the Bulgin MPI002, I'd have a pushbutton with a single LED, which is not a bicolor LED. I assume the pushbutton jumper setting should still be set to on, but what happens if I only want a single, mono-color LED? Does that single, mono-color LED alternate between on and off? Or, is it constantly on?
Thanks in advance.
Brad
With the Hypex Softstart module, is it possible to use a push to make momentary pushbutton, such as the Bulgin MPI002 or MPI0037 (www.bulgin.co.uk), simply by wiring the pushbutton directly to the pushbutton fastons on the Softstart module? Or do I need to insert another "latching" component between the switch and the Softstart module?
Also, the datasheet for the Softstart module shows jumper settings for a pushbutton and 2 LEDs, or a switch and one bicolor LED... With the Bulgin MPI002, I'd have a pushbutton with a single LED, which is not a bicolor LED. I assume the pushbutton jumper setting should still be set to on, but what happens if I only want a single, mono-color LED? Does that single, mono-color LED alternate between on and off? Or, is it constantly on?
Thanks in advance.
Brad
DC, there's no "switch" to change the led settings.
You can connect either one or two LEDs to the 2 connectors - you just put one led "in reverse" against the other. (anode/kathode switched around for your second led)
One will light, the other will off.
Pushbutton or "switch" can be selected with a jumper. After that, you either switch the amp on/off with a regular switch, or you can use a button (push on/push off)
With the switch setting you could also use an extra relay to make a 12V trigger.
You can connect either one or two LEDs to the 2 connectors - you just put one led "in reverse" against the other. (anode/kathode switched around for your second led)
One will light, the other will off.
Pushbutton or "switch" can be selected with a jumper. After that, you either switch the amp on/off with a regular switch, or you can use a button (push on/push off)
With the switch setting you could also use an extra relay to make a 12V trigger.
Yves,
Thanks for your reply. However, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying... My questions are:
1. If I use one mono-color LED, will it come on with the amp, and turn off when the amp goes into standby?
2. As I understand it, there are at least two kinds of pushbuttons. One kind of pushbutton has two states -- depressed, or on (the circuit is closed), and undepressed, or off (the circuit is open). The other kind of pushbutton, a momentary switch (or "push to make" switch), only has one state. When it's pressed, it makes contact, momentarily closing the circuit. I believe these kinds of switches typically require relays in order to "latch" the device into the open or closed state. My question is whether the Hypex Softstart module can handle a momentary push to make button without use of an additional relay. If not, how can I determine the requirements for the relay needed? My guess is that the pushbutton option on the Softstart module is for momentary pushbuttons, and that no extra relay is required. Otherwise, I don't understand why a distinction is being made between a switch and a pushbutton -- a switch is functionally equivalent to a pushbutton with two states, no?
At the end of the day, I'm happy to leave the amp in standby and have it turn on via a current-sensing input or 12V relay. Just thought these buttons would like nice on a faceplate.
Thanks for your reply. However, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying... My questions are:
1. If I use one mono-color LED, will it come on with the amp, and turn off when the amp goes into standby?
2. As I understand it, there are at least two kinds of pushbuttons. One kind of pushbutton has two states -- depressed, or on (the circuit is closed), and undepressed, or off (the circuit is open). The other kind of pushbutton, a momentary switch (or "push to make" switch), only has one state. When it's pressed, it makes contact, momentarily closing the circuit. I believe these kinds of switches typically require relays in order to "latch" the device into the open or closed state. My question is whether the Hypex Softstart module can handle a momentary push to make button without use of an additional relay. If not, how can I determine the requirements for the relay needed? My guess is that the pushbutton option on the Softstart module is for momentary pushbuttons, and that no extra relay is required. Otherwise, I don't understand why a distinction is being made between a switch and a pushbutton -- a switch is functionally equivalent to a pushbutton with two states, no?
At the end of the day, I'm happy to leave the amp in standby and have it turn on via a current-sensing input or 12V relay. Just thought these buttons would like nice on a faceplate.
Replacing the 470uF caps - conflicting info
I've been searching this thread to see if it is possible to replace the 470uF local supply caps on the UCD400. In this thread and the hotrodding thread there is conflicting information, possibly because in the hotrodding thread people talk about the UCD180 as well which also has a 470uF cap.
In this thread Jan-Peter talks about NOT replacing the 470uF with lower ESR versions due to possible ringing. Can someone please confirm that you can or cannot replace the 470uF cap and if you do, does it cause ringing or improve the sound?
Regards,
Dean
I've been searching this thread to see if it is possible to replace the 470uF local supply caps on the UCD400. In this thread and the hotrodding thread there is conflicting information, possibly because in the hotrodding thread people talk about the UCD180 as well which also has a 470uF cap.
In this thread Jan-Peter talks about NOT replacing the 470uF with lower ESR versions due to possible ringing. Can someone please confirm that you can or cannot replace the 470uF cap and if you do, does it cause ringing or improve the sound?
Regards,
Dean
The two 100V 470UF supply caps can be replaced.
There are however two other caps that should not be replaced because they are there, as you said, to controll ringing.
There is a good picture posted by "Mac" of a UCD 400 module which shows the Bootstrap cap (replaceable), DC Blocking cap (can be replaced), & the two remaining small caps mentioned above.
There are however two other caps that should not be replaced because they are there, as you said, to controll ringing.
There is a good picture posted by "Mac" of a UCD 400 module which shows the Bootstrap cap (replaceable), DC Blocking cap (can be replaced), & the two remaining small caps mentioned above.
Thanks Steve.
Jan-Peter did specifically say the 470uF caps should not be replaced with low-z caps.
See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=610784#post610784
Have people been replacing these caps and making their UCD400's worse?
Confused.
Dean
Jan-Peter did specifically say the 470uF caps should not be replaced with low-z caps.
See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=610784#post610784
Have people been replacing these caps and making their UCD400's worse?
Confused.
Dean