$30 amp upgraded - Page 3

Bill F. · 21st October 2004, 08:06 PM

Hmm. Hadn't thought of that--thanks for the heads-up.

If that's the case, would anything prevent me from putting one amp on a + supply and another on a - supply for a 30W stereo pair?

zobsky · 21st October 2004, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by planet10
Yea...

Now just need to figure a new box -- what are the board extents?

dave

from memory, can't be more than 1.5 " x 2 "

amt · 21st October 2004, 10:28 PM

The boards are 1.25 X 2.625 and need about .75 inch of clearance for the caps and underboard solder points.

amt

needtubes · 21st October 2004, 11:53 PM

I am looking to enter into the Class D (or Class T, whichever the case may be) realm... sound quality concerns me most. How does this amp compare to some others you've had experience with? Is it worth the time and effort to get it running "right"? Or should I just go out and buy an evaluation board and mess around with that?

amt · 22nd October 2004, 12:53 AM

needtubes,

Not being an engineer, I cant tell you if an eval board could offer much more in the way of sound quality or not. The SI board seems to be a minimalist design for the TA2024 and doesnt look like much but cap swapping is possible (other than the type of things Ive done) I can say that for $25 or so, you will get an extrodinary good amp value wise. Everyone that has heard mine has been shocked at the sound.

This amp should really be considered a 5 watter since the sound changes for the worst when heading toward double digit output. But at a few watts, the overall clarity is outstanding with a good soundstage.

My opinion is to let the engineers out there sort it out and in time, Im sure the sound will be improved. But for $25..... throw it away if you dont like it. But you will.

This weekend its getting the once over by my tube expert buddy. Hes had probably twenty over the years and will be a great judge of the sound. Horns of course, will be used.

I will report back.

amt

planet10 · 22nd October 2004, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by amt
1.25 X 2.625x0.75 inch

Thanx.

dave

mhelin · 22nd October 2004, 06:17 AM

You could use these amps to power some MTM active speakers so that each midbass gets it's own amp channel and the tweeter one, so you can use three amps for a pair of speakers. Before you buy the drivers check the datasheets for the sensitivity.

mhelin · 22nd October 2004, 06:19 AM

Another way to increase the output "power" is to power a line source speakers (like 10 x Tangband W3-871s / speaker) using separate amp channel / driver. However, that makes $300 for the amps, and as much for the drivers.

CRFX · 23rd October 2004, 12:44 AM

Anyone try conecting the input directly to the input pin on the chip.
I used a decent input cap and feedback resistors and got a much nicer sound out of the little guy. (replacing the conectors and pot goes without saying)

I'd also like to replace the output inductors with something better. It needs a 10uH 25volt or so, but I cant find anything worth replacing it with.

CD · 23rd October 2004, 02:17 AM

I'm curious about the capacitors that you have across the binding posts in the upgraded SI -- what kind are they and what do they do? Thanks.

23rd October 2004, 12:44 AM	#29
CRFX diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: long island, NY	Anyone try conecting the input directly to the input pin on the chip. I used a decent input cap and feedback resistors and got a much nicer sound out of the little guy. (replacing the conectors and pot goes without saying) I'd also like to replace the output inductors with something better. It needs a 10uH 25volt or so, but I cant find anything worth replacing it with. __________________ It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission.

23rd October 2004, 02:17 AM	#30
CD diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	capacitors I'm curious about the capacitors that you have across the binding posts in the upgraded SI -- what kind are they and what do they do? Thanks.

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21st October 2004, 08:06 PM	#21
Bill F. diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SW MI	Hmm. Hadn't thought of that--thanks for the heads-up. If that's the case, would anything prevent me from putting one amp on a + supply and another on a - supply for a 30W stereo pair?

21st October 2004, 10:28 PM	#23
amt diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: oregon	The boards are 1.25 X 2.625 and need about .75 inch of clearance for the caps and underboard solder points. amt

21st October 2004, 11:53 PM	#24
needtubes diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: USA	I am looking to enter into the Class D (or Class T, whichever the case may be) realm... sound quality concerns me most. How does this amp compare to some others you've had experience with? Is it worth the time and effort to get it running "right"? Or should I just go out and buy an evaluation board and mess around with that?

22nd October 2004, 12:53 AM	#25
amt diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: oregon	needtubes, Not being an engineer, I cant tell you if an eval board could offer much more in the way of sound quality or not. The SI board seems to be a minimalist design for the TA2024 and doesnt look like much but cap swapping is possible (other than the type of things Ive done) I can say that for $25 or so, you will get an extrodinary good amp value wise. Everyone that has heard mine has been shocked at the sound. This amp should really be considered a 5 watter since the sound changes for the worst when heading toward double digit output. But at a few watts, the overall clarity is outstanding with a good soundstage. My opinion is to let the engineers out there sort it out and in time, Im sure the sound will be improved. But for $25..... throw it away if you dont like it. But you will. This weekend its getting the once over by my tube expert buddy. Hes had probably twenty over the years and will be a great judge of the sound. Horns of course, will be used. I will report back. amt

22nd October 2004, 06:17 AM	#27
mhelin diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Tampere Finland Europe	You could use these amps to power some MTM active speakers so that each midbass gets it's own amp channel and the tweeter one, so you can use three amps for a pair of speakers. Before you buy the drivers check the datasheets for the sensitivity.

22nd October 2004, 06:19 AM	#28
mhelin diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Tampere Finland Europe	Another way to increase the output "power" is to power a line source speakers (like 10 x Tangband W3-871s / speaker) using separate amp channel / driver. However, that makes $300 for the amps, and as much for the drivers.