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#881 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello,
If you want to switch your amps on and off only by a front panel power switch, just connect /ON to the amp power supply ground. George |
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#882 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: London
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Just to clarify. You connect the "ON" line to ground to make the amps switch on... In the case of the Zappulse units you connect a similar connection to ground to turn them off (well into standby).
On a related note: Can anyone describe what they might do to have remote start and stop of these two types of amp? ie, I have a homebuilt pre-amp which has some spare outputs that I could use to do remote switching on/off all my amps. Since they each flip in different directions, and also that connecting all the amp grounds together is unlikely to be clever, anyone got any clever ideas for using a relay to remotely flip em on and off? Is it best to have a design where power needs to be applied continuously to some input line to switch the amps on? If the connection is removed then power goes away. Or perhaps it's better to have a three line input and pull one switch each way to make it flip-flop (with the default perhaps being "on"). Any thoughts on a nice design for this (preferably quite simple since it's going to have to be retro fitted in my case...) |
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#883 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hastings
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Ed, what is the latch supply on the preditor? I put a link from my UCD modules to the Power GND and the blue light came on after a couple of seconds. How have you wired your?
Cherhit, thanks. |
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#884 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
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[QUOTE] Maxlorenz;
Would you be kind and tell us, humble beginners, if we need smaller caps after these large cans?[?QUOTE] No not necessary, better use one good cap. Quote:
Regards, Jan-Peter |
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#885 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hastings
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Jan Peter, thanks for that, I watched the capacitor discharge on my DMM and as you suggest it takes several seconds, however I want to get my amp running so for the moment I will just do it from the gnd.
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#886 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
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OK.
And what about the sound of the UcD? Regards, Jan-Peter |
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#887 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hastings
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Well its up and running first impressions after about 30 minutes of listening, very dynamic and clear, slightly sibilant but that may be my speakers. Overall very very nice sound.
Modules are running very cool and so far no problems at all. The switch on and off thump is minor less that the Music Fidelity I was using before. |
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#888 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hastings
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Here is a picture of my amp, its built into an old Music Fidelity case but this is temporary.
The picture is over a Meg so its a link :- wytco0 amp |
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#889 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Puget Sound
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How does the UdC180 do with highly capacitive loads? Has anyone used these modules to drive full range electrostatic speakers or high-capacitance speaker wire, like Polk Cobra Cable? TIA, mac.
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#890 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: London
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wytco0: Have you thought about using shorter wires...? Probably you could turn the PS around and make those wires extremely direct. Also, I'm sure the source and speaker wires would prefer to be a little shorter?
Anyone: is there any point seperating the modules? Do they interfere in any respect? |
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