UCD180 questions

[Kevin Haskins]

The HG Supply is only setup for two channels. You either need two HG supplies or our MCH five channel supply.

[Jan-Peter]

Originally posted by Vasestar
How does one connect 4 pcs 180 modules to the HG PSU as earlier stated.? (cant remember the page).?? And how large a transformer would be needed for 4 modules .?

You can connect 4 pcs UcD180 on a HG power supply, however you will not have on all four modules a DC sensing, only on two. Or you can do a small tweak to add some components on the HG supply. You could mail with support (at) hypex . nl , for the details. A power transformer of 300~400VA will be sufficient.

For a more channel solution you could of course use the power supply board of DIYcable.com

Regards,

Jan-Peter

[Fasen]

Ok, thanks :-)

[rogs]

Apologies in advance if this has already been asked, and I have had a good look through this thread (although I must confess to not reading all 1982 posts!!).

Th UcD 180 manual pdf shows a 5A fuse in line with both +ve and -ve DC rails. Assuming that there is no component failure on the UcD 180 pcb itself, what happens if one of the DC fuses fails?

Does the other fuse automatically fail, before any damage can occur to the amplifier components.
Does it not fail, and leave the amplifier in a low current 'safe' state?
Does it not fail, and leave the amplifier in a 'high' current, but non destructive, state?

Or is it possible to destroy the module?

I have an application where more than one power amplifier is required to share the same power supply, and it is useful to know how much extra power, if any, is likely to be drawn in the caes of a single fuse failure.

[classd4sure]

I think if either rail fuse would blow it's very likely oscillation would simply cease immediatly with no harm done to the module.

You'd probably want to give each module its own rail fuses, but that's all up to you.

The modules are overcurrent protected, so the purpose of those fuses is actually in case of an output stage fault, kind of cheap CD protection.

In either case, should the module be fine as you say and just one fuse blows, the output would be left in a state of high impedance, disabled, and so the other fuse should not blow. I haven't tried it to know though.

[mr_push_pull]

I enlarged the holes in the heatsinks of my UCDs with a drill, so screws could fit in, and... just one slip and the drill touched one of the caps... I'm attaching a (close-up) pic with the damage. Do you think it's safe to use them like this?

[t.]

Originally posted by mr_push_pull
I enlarged the holes in the heatsinks of my UCDs with a drill, so screws could fit in, and... just one slip and the drill touched one of the caps... I'm attaching a (close-up) pic with the damage. Do you think it's safe to use them like this?

It looks like you just scratched some of the plastic sleeving off, as long as the actual metal cap body does not short out on anything it should be fine.
I skin all electrolytic caps (where suitable) anyway

[mr_push_pull]

Originally posted by t.


It looks like you just scratched some of the plastic sleeving off, as long as the actual metal cap body does not short out on anything it should be fine.
I skin all electrolytic caps (where suitable) anyway

Well... not quite. The metal is not just scratched, there's a conic hole about half a millimeter of depth. It's hard to tell from the pic, because of the angle (the T-shaped sink wouldn't allow me other angle), and because of the lighting.

[t.]

Originally posted by mr_push_pull

Well... not quite. The metal is not just scratched, there's a conic hole about half a millimeter of depth. It's hard to tell from the pic, because of the angle (the T-shaped sink wouldn't allow me other angle), and because of the lighting.

Sorry to hear that, if the can is pierced then I would think they will need changing I'm afraid
You'd have to check first to be sure but would it be possible to either stick a bit of super glue or something to make the cap air tight? if its only a small hole it may be possible to cover it

[lucpes]

Originally posted by mr_push_pull

Well... not quite. The metal is not just scratched, there's a conic hole about half a millimeter of depth. It's hard to tell from the pic, because of the angle (the T-shaped sink wouldn't allow me other angle), and because of the lighting.

Here's the local farnell distributor, just order some Panasonic FC caps to replace those:

http://www.protehno.ro/

Search on uk.farnell.com for size and voltage, then email the guys with the order code, the order will come through prioripost ramburs.

Hai noroc