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#1881 |
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Account Disabled
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I'd imagine that's 46Vdc under load, at 10% mains overvoltage unloaded it might trip protection. Have to try it and see. I have 31Vac secondaries and my rails are 47Vdc unloaded.
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#1882 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lousy Anna
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If it does trip it won't be by much. I can throw some bleeder resistors accross the caps to maintain a slight load.
But is 500VA enough for 2 channels?
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Troy Thinking positive doesn't make things better, it makes you a better person. |
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#1883 |
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Account Disabled
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It's what I'm using, stays nice and clean right up to clipping, haven't been able to warm up the transformer yet.
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#1884 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lousy Anna
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Excellent. Thanks for the reply.
__________________
Troy Thinking positive doesn't make things better, it makes you a better person. |
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#1885 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Switzerland
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Hello everybody, I'm new to this board and have a UcD180 question:
What is the power consumption of the UcD180 module with zero signal. with 1 Watt output and with 10 Watt output? Has anybody ever measured this? I know that the efficiency is really good at full load, but how about at these lower signal levels? If I use no heatsink (i.e. just the blue heatspreader) in a breadboard setup, prior to building it into a case, can I safely operate the module at low output levels up to about 1 Watt? I did a search on these questions and so far found nothing. Sorry if I missed something and these questions have been answerde before. |
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#1886 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: osorno , Chile
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Hi Javin5:
Attach a metal plate to the blue T heatsink and crank it up Good luck M
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Cheapest horn speakers: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink |
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#1887 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Antwerp
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I had the modules on for about a minute without a sink (yes, yes, I know, JP told me not to
) running very low levels (surely less than a watt) and things heated up so fast I turned it off very quickly.Just grab some piece of alu, doesn't matter what it is and screw the UCD's to it - don't take the risk - don't forget that a few centigrades of temperature more have very negative effects on the lifetime of your electronics. |
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#1888 |
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Account Disabled
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Think you should be alright to do a quick test with the 180 (not 400) in this way, but it just takes a small piece of aluminum to be safe.
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#1889 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Switzerland
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Thanks to everyone for your advice. As you suggest, I will attach a piece of aluminum during tryout, just to be on the safe side.
In my UcD180, the PCB is not flush with the blue T-heatspreader; it extends just a little bit, maybe 0.5 mm. Is this common? Can the PCB just be sanded off a little bit to allow a flush mount to the side panel of the case? Or is there a risk to damage something? I could use a thin 0.5mm thick aluminum "in-between-plate", but this would create an additional thermal junction. What do you think? |
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#1890 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: petaluma, ca
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I went overboard and copied Kevin's design for my 5-channel amp.
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