Hello Everyone,
I'm a complete notice when it comes to audio, so your patience with me will be appreciated.
First ill explain the situation;
Ive bought a Buttkicker Gamer 2 set, which essentially is the tiniest of monoblock amplifiers combined with a simple bass transducer (on a stick!). Worked great for about a year, until the amp quit. Sent it in, it got 'fixed', worked another month or 3 and then it died for good. Only this time the freaking store I bought it from had gone bankrupt. I reluctantly tossed it into a drawer for another year because it was so difficult to get a replacement. So I am currently still up skid creek without a paddle.
The amplifier in question is a BKA-130-C
Specs :
Specs :
I'm running this on my PC only, and I regulate what gets put out to the buttkicker digitally (voicemeeter banana), so I don't really need any filters on the amp. But what size and type of amp am I looking for? Do I match the original amp, or do I match the transducer? One is 90w RMA, the other states 75~250w (not sure what RMA it is).
Ive been looking at a few class-D monoblock car amplifiers, but im not sure if im going in the right direction for at-home use.
Does anyone have any sage advice for me? I really miss my gaming grumbles.
I'm a complete notice when it comes to audio, so your patience with me will be appreciated.
First ill explain the situation;
Ive bought a Buttkicker Gamer 2 set, which essentially is the tiniest of monoblock amplifiers combined with a simple bass transducer (on a stick!). Worked great for about a year, until the amp quit. Sent it in, it got 'fixed', worked another month or 3 and then it died for good. Only this time the freaking store I bought it from had gone bankrupt. I reluctantly tossed it into a drawer for another year because it was so difficult to get a replacement. So I am currently still up skid creek without a paddle.
The amplifier in question is a BKA-130-C
Specs :
Dimensions: 2.76" H x 7.5" W x 9.5” L
Frequency Response: 10 - 300 Hz
Power Output: 90 watt RMS @ 2 ohms
45 watt RMS @ 4 ohms
Input Sensitivity: 80 mVolt
Filter Roll-Off: 12 dB per octave
Weight: 7 lbs / 3.18 kg
Voltage: 120V or 240V NOT SWITCHABLE
The transducer is a Buttkicker GamerFrequency Response: 10 - 300 Hz
Power Output: 90 watt RMS @ 2 ohms
45 watt RMS @ 4 ohms
Input Sensitivity: 80 mVolt
Filter Roll-Off: 12 dB per octave
Weight: 7 lbs / 3.18 kg
Voltage: 120V or 240V NOT SWITCHABLE
Specs :
Dimensions: 6.125" W x 4.875" L x 4.375" H
Frequency Response: 5-200 Hz
Weight: 4.5 lbs. / 2 kgs.
Piston Weight 6 oz.
Nominal Impedance: 2 Ohm
Power Handling: 75 watt min. / 250 watt max.
So now my question is; What do I need to get this working again?Frequency Response: 5-200 Hz
Weight: 4.5 lbs. / 2 kgs.
Piston Weight 6 oz.
Nominal Impedance: 2 Ohm
Power Handling: 75 watt min. / 250 watt max.
I'm running this on my PC only, and I regulate what gets put out to the buttkicker digitally (voicemeeter banana), so I don't really need any filters on the amp. But what size and type of amp am I looking for? Do I match the original amp, or do I match the transducer? One is 90w RMA, the other states 75~250w (not sure what RMA it is).
Ive been looking at a few class-D monoblock car amplifiers, but im not sure if im going in the right direction for at-home use.
Does anyone have any sage advice for me? I really miss my gaming grumbles.
Last edited:
Sorry for your Amp loss may it 
Good news is use another amplifier with a DSP crossover Behringer DCX2496 and you can vibrate again.
Make sure the mill-voltage mV input is not overloading the amp. Also check with buttkicker voltage output with a voltmeter and test with Low Frequency Sine Wave for best vibration feel with a minimal voltage. Also make sure that you understand! It shouldn't provide silly noise like Rattling Buzzing that is a FAIL the idea is it be silent as possible Yet provide a vibration feeling.
Take your hand make a fist and now shake it. You can feel your body vibrating with Infer low frequency. Keep that in mind when fitting these bass seat shakers. At some point in testing if the levels are up high and voltmeter is reading more than 4volts and not getting much SHIMMING SHAKING VIBRATION turn the level down as its just wasted voltage watts turning into HEAT and the AMP is gonna get HOT the Bass Shaker is gonna get WARM or HOT if HOT that is BAD.
Good news is use another amplifier with a DSP crossover Behringer DCX2496 and you can vibrate again.
Make sure the mill-voltage mV input is not overloading the amp. Also check with buttkicker voltage output with a voltmeter and test with Low Frequency Sine Wave for best vibration feel with a minimal voltage. Also make sure that you understand! It shouldn't provide silly noise like Rattling Buzzing that is a FAIL the idea is it be silent as possible Yet provide a vibration feeling.
Take your hand make a fist and now shake it. You can feel your body vibrating with Infer low frequency. Keep that in mind when fitting these bass seat shakers. At some point in testing if the levels are up high and voltmeter is reading more than 4volts and not getting much SHIMMING SHAKING VIBRATION turn the level down as its just wasted voltage watts turning into HEAT and the AMP is gonna get HOT the Bass Shaker is gonna get WARM or HOT if HOT that is BAD.
You just want a no-frills amplifier?
If you can handle building a board into a case then choose a cheap amplifier board off Ebay and use a laptop power supply.
You need one that can be bridged for mono and drive a 2ohm load.
I'd think a TDA7498E board would suit, lots of suppliers -
TDA7498E 160W+160W 2 Channel Audio High Power Amplifier Board ModuleALUK | eBay
Data sheet states it will drive a 3 ohm load with 36V supply.
Using a 19-20V laptop supply will limit the current on a 2 ohm load.
The amp is current protected anyway.
You would need to be able to do some soldering to bridge the connections on the board for mono operation.
Pick a high power laptop supply.
If you can handle building a board into a case then choose a cheap amplifier board off Ebay and use a laptop power supply.
You need one that can be bridged for mono and drive a 2ohm load.
I'd think a TDA7498E board would suit, lots of suppliers -
TDA7498E 160W+160W 2 Channel Audio High Power Amplifier Board ModuleALUK | eBay
Data sheet states it will drive a 3 ohm load with 36V supply.
Using a 19-20V laptop supply will limit the current on a 2 ohm load.
The amp is current protected anyway.
You would need to be able to do some soldering to bridge the connections on the board for mono operation.
Pick a high power laptop supply.
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