Good response,thanks
It' TS-Vx205A,but the orginal amplifier was ripped out of it so I got it very cheap. I rebuilt it to fit exactly in my P406estate so i could save place. But that's another story. But that's also why I bought this amp; to save place!
Anyway,back to topic; Is the best solution PBTL and vc in series?
And what voltage is recomended?
Filip
It' TS-Vx205A,but the orginal amplifier was ripped out of it so I got it very cheap. I rebuilt it to fit exactly in my P406estate so i could save place. But that's another story. But that's also why I bought this amp; to save place! Anyway,back to topic; Is the best solution PBTL and vc in series?
And what voltage is recomended?
Filip
So you loaded each channel with 2,7Ohm instead of the min 4Ohm; that will burn...
Putting resistor(s) in the path gives about the same result as very long cables; better not do it.Voice coils connected in series are fine.
You could use 2x 7498E in PBTL mode; 1 for each coil, but those are way to powerful for your 60wrms / 100w max subwoofer.
The 7498(E) boards are not the best for subs, a simple dual chip tpa3116 (2x100/120W) board would be a better choice IMHO: you could connect each voicecoil to a PBTL chip and will have about enough power to run at 12V-15V (default car battery voltage). With the lower voltage things get a lot less hot.
Keep in mind that temps in your car can reach 50+ in summer, so cooling is of big importance.
//TPA3118 might be even better for cooling as these can use the surface they are mounted to as cooling plate.
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YW, you could also use 2 mono (1 chip in pbtl) boards like
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Out 100W New | eBay (has bigger input caps and is ok as far as I have read; I have 2 on the shelve for future projects)
or DC 12V 24V 100W TPA3116 D2 DA Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board | eBay (has gain control, I have not looked/read if this board has issue's)
Advantage over 1, 2 chip stereo board is that you have more combined input coupling/ bigger input caps, which is of use with bass and the longer power cables going to the amps.
I don't know if you need a low pass filter (like the original amp had), but there might be some boards with a fixed (150Hz??) LPF.
It is probably better to use something like Low-pass Filter NE5532 Bass Tone Subwoofer Pre-Amplifier Preamp Board DC 12-24V | eBay (I have no experience with or read anything about this item) You could mount this in/near the sub or near the head unit for easy bass control.
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Out 100W New | eBay (has bigger input caps and is ok as far as I have read; I have 2 on the shelve for future projects)
or DC 12V 24V 100W TPA3116 D2 DA Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board | eBay (has gain control, I have not looked/read if this board has issue's)
Advantage over 1, 2 chip stereo board is that you have more combined input coupling/ bigger input caps, which is of use with bass and the longer power cables going to the amps.
I don't know if you need a low pass filter (like the original amp had), but there might be some boards with a fixed (150Hz??) LPF.
It is probably better to use something like Low-pass Filter NE5532 Bass Tone Subwoofer Pre-Amplifier Preamp Board DC 12-24V | eBay (I have no experience with or read anything about this item) You could mount this in/near the sub or near the head unit for easy bass control.
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Man,this is really a helpful forum I have looked at those before but did not take them serious because of the low pricetag. I have crossover in the cars Sony headunit. And by the way,I also have the lowpassfilter/preamp in the link.But never tried it yet,I have some many ebay stuff in the garage So maybe I should order 2 amps,one on each voicecoil,I read they handle 2ohm. Must go seeking Ebay later,now back to work again. Thanks again
I have looked at those before but did not take them serious because of the low pricetag. I have crossover in the cars Sony headunit. And by the way,I also have the lowpassfilter/preamp in the link.But never tried it yet,I have some many ebay stuff in the garage So maybe I should order 2 amps,one on each voicecoil,I read they handle 2ohm. Must go seeking Ebay later,now back to work again. Thanks again They should be ok even down to 1,6Ohm.
As for cooling, you can probably get away with passive cooling when you mount the boards vertical, enclose them, but and leave the bottom and top open to create a little draft/airflow from the rising heat in the 'tunnel'. The less space between the heat-sinks and the panel going over them, the better this will work; as all the fresh/cool air is forced to flow over the heat-sinks when rising. You can make this panel from wood as the thermal insulation is now an advantage over metal. A longer/taller 'tunnel' above the board(s) also works better as the airflow will speed up.
Just don't play full power directly after parking in the hot sun even if you go with fans.
I bought this fan, in the 24V version, and it runs quiet and with good airflow@12V. This seller used airmail. I ordered the 12v version elsewhere but that still has to come in and will probably run fine/quiet@5V.
As for cooling, you can probably get away with passive cooling when you mount the boards vertical, enclose them, but and leave the bottom and top open to create a little draft/airflow from the rising heat in the 'tunnel'. The less space between the heat-sinks and the panel going over them, the better this will work; as all the fresh/cool air is forced to flow over the heat-sinks when rising. You can make this panel from wood as the thermal insulation is now an advantage over metal. A longer/taller 'tunnel' above the board(s) also works better as the airflow will speed up.
Just don't play full power directly after parking in the hot sun even if you go with fans.
I bought this fan, in the 24V version, and it runs quiet and with good airflow@12V. This seller used airmail.
I ordered the 12v version elsewhere but that still has to come in and will probably run fine/quiet@5V.You have good points there,cooling is important. But it's so many 3116 amps on ebay,It's a jungle. Mono and stereo versions,different wattage. Do all allow 2 ohm load,I see some with 2ohm spec and other 4-8ohm. Have you compared bass quality TDA7498e vs TPA3116/TPA3116d2 ? And sound in fullrange? You see,it was wery tight and fun bass with TDA7498e and the small Pioneer, now with the 7498 it lacks much punch and tightness. But it's not gonna last I see due to the hard load. I hope the 3116 could match or even be better,the 7498e was almost perfect until it died. Should I buy 3116 or 3116d2 ? And as I said,I have adjustable voltage stepup,so any voltage up to 80Volt is possible.I mean,how far could I push it without meltdown?
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They all use the same chips, just 1 or 2 per board. You need 2 and are going to run them in mono and have some sort of gain/volume control; get 2x the red board.
Bass of the 3116 is great, if not; use thicker power and/or speaker cables. 7498E is not known for it's bass quality but for it's great highs AFAIK.
Bass of the 3116 is great, if not; use thicker power and/or speaker cables. 7498E is not known for it's bass quality but for it's great highs AFAIK.
Looks good apart from the 33uH filter chokes. These chokes will saturate at 3-4 Amp (peak) and you need more.
It's loud because of the band-pass enclosure and it doesn't play very low, its a 50/60W rms speaker, 100W peak max. I have 2 of the newer 206a's; paid €30 and €35 each with cabling and some nice thick power cables. I like them, but would not spend more then needed.
About the board you linked, I don't see much advantage over the boards I linked in 7498E BTL Mode Question but maybe FauxFrench does.
3-4A would be fine; @13V that's 50W max for 1 of the 2 voice-coils, so 100W for the driver; more then enough.
About the board you linked, I don't see much advantage over the boards I linked in 7498E BTL Mode Question but maybe FauxFrench does.
3-4A would be fine; @13V that's 50W max for 1 of the 2 voice-coils, so 100W for the driver; more then enough.
The boards suggested by Think are probably as good as the one proposed by Norlenning except for perhaps an unimportant detail: the heatsink size is a bit bigger on the board suggested by Norlenning.
My concern with that type of small class D boards is the saturation current of the chokes used in the output filter. They are typically under-dimensioned.
The 33uH chokes shown are likely to saturate at around 3.5A peak, thus 2.5Arms. That will allow 2.5x2.5x2.7=17W of output power in 2.7 Ohm. The double in 5.5 Ohm. For me it would be enough as I have passed my life rather successfully with less in my car, but I believe you have higher ambitions.
But, I believe the starting point was that the TDA7498E boards are already ordered. They have good size output chokes and the TDA7498E chips will do fine though it may be a bit of "over-kill".
The TPA3116(D2) would be another good solution if a board with good size output chokes is chosen. However, the TDA7498E boards are on their way.
Yes,you are right. But I could perhaps take output chokes(that is the 4 coils right?) from the burnt TDA7498e? Is that possible? Many hopefully not too stupid questions�� I know I know too little,hopefully I could learn a little in the process. And this is not big money we are talking about��
You are right. The 4 chokes (only 2 are needed) from the defect board could perhaps be used......->
A TDA7498E application note shows the chokes to be probably 15uH.
That will do fine for the TPA3116. Then, you will have fully sufficient filter chokes. You have to be a bit inventive to find space for the chokes, but you will probably manage.
Good suggestion.
Think is right in that the TPA3116, in PBTL (mono) version is very well suited to drive car speakers. With an effective output switch impedance of only 60mOhm, it can handle low impedance loads. And, it has a fine sound.
A TDA7498E application note shows the chokes to be probably 15uH.
That will do fine for the TPA3116. Then, you will have fully sufficient filter chokes. You have to be a bit inventive to find space for the chokes, but you will probably manage.
Good suggestion.
Think is right in that the TPA3116, in PBTL (mono) version is very well suited to drive car speakers. With an effective output switch impedance of only 60mOhm, it can handle low impedance loads. And, it has a fine sound.
Hello again,I have now ordered 2 amps,those I linked to. So the burnt 7498e will donate 2chokes to each.Would it go with 20volts or even 24v with those bigger chokes,I know it's overkill(Motorhead song but I like power reserve. Risk of burning up chip here too?
And the TDA7498e must be much better for the frontsystem in my car than the int.amp in the Sony headunit? It's 2way Pioneer with 6,5"mid/midbass and 1/2"tweeter highpassed at 60Hz. Does this amp perform better here then TPA3116d2?
but I like power reserve. Risk of burning up chip here too? And the TDA7498e must be much better for the frontsystem in my car than the int.amp in the Sony headunit? It's 2way Pioneer with 6,5"mid/midbass and 1/2"tweeter highpassed at 60Hz. Does this amp perform better here then TPA3116d2?
A little of topic story,what maked me try out these cheap little amps was that I needed a tiny little amp at work to radiolistening and this one amazed me with so good sound for so little money Lepai LP-2020A+ review: Lepai LP-2020A+ - Page 2 - CNET
I have listen to expensive amps,even owned ASL Moonson 100w tube monoamps(sold because my lisiteningroom got to hot,300w each standby)but this tiny little workhorse is really bang for the bucks,only 20w 10%thd but sound great with little to miss in 3D and details..higly recommended
I have listen to expensive amps,even owned ASL Moonson 100w tube monoamps(sold because my lisiteningroom got to hot,300w each standby)but this tiny little workhorse is really bang for the bucks,only 20w 10%thd but sound great with little to miss in 3D and details..higly recommended