I was convinced in another thread to go the route of building my own class D amp. It was this link that really convinced me:
Six channel DIY Anaview AMS0100 amplifier
So, I've recently just gone down the path of active XO, and this would be part of that build. I would like some help figuring out what I need to replicate the amp in the link above, but with some modifications.
1) I am not sure what's going on with the company whose parts are used in that amp. There seems to be a question about whether they still sell small quantities to consumers. I've contacted them, will wait for reply. In the meantime, an alternative source would be great.
2) I would like to know how easy/possible it would be to include any DSP in a build like this, so that I could have the XO function contained here, as well.
3) It would appreciate advice/help (not actually hands-on help) from anyone who loves hobby building. I'm not an electronics guy. But I am building this with my son, who is interested in pursuing an EE degree. It's a father/son project. I don't mind just piecing together components.
4) We love a great cost to value ratio. I don't think we need to break the bank to get something that sounds great. (I'm half deaf, anyway)
That being said, I have a set of speakers with no XO's at one end, and a receiver and pre-amp at the other. It would be my preference to build a 6 channel, so that I can do a 4-way build in the future. (with subs on a separate amp) I'm open to any and all recommendations.
I come armed with basic soldering skills, and the ability to ask questions.
Six channel DIY Anaview AMS0100 amplifier
So, I've recently just gone down the path of active XO, and this would be part of that build. I would like some help figuring out what I need to replicate the amp in the link above, but with some modifications.
1) I am not sure what's going on with the company whose parts are used in that amp. There seems to be a question about whether they still sell small quantities to consumers. I've contacted them, will wait for reply. In the meantime, an alternative source would be great.
2) I would like to know how easy/possible it would be to include any DSP in a build like this, so that I could have the XO function contained here, as well.
3) It would appreciate advice/help (not actually hands-on help) from anyone who loves hobby building. I'm not an electronics guy. But I am building this with my son, who is interested in pursuing an EE degree. It's a father/son project. I don't mind just piecing together components.
4) We love a great cost to value ratio. I don't think we need to break the bank to get something that sounds great. (I'm half deaf, anyway)
That being said, I have a set of speakers with no XO's at one end, and a receiver and pre-amp at the other. It would be my preference to build a 6 channel, so that I can do a 4-way build in the future. (with subs on a separate amp) I'm open to any and all recommendations.
I come armed with basic soldering skills, and the ability to ask questions.
Good luck!
From my experience, I like “Class D” for subwoofers and woofer cones. I like tube amps for mid-frequencies. They're so darn sweet. And for HF/treble, solid state amps are just fine in almost any incarnation. One doesn't run much power above 8 kHz.
But that's just me.
It'll start a religious-war of preferences.
And maybe being an old fuddy-duddy, my predilections of digital-ness and analog-ness are outdated.
Actually, sure they are.
But it doesn't mean they're unfounded!
AND YES - I prefer triamped speakers if there's just going to be a pair of main ones with a separate subwoofer.
GoatGuy
From my experience, I like “Class D” for subwoofers and woofer cones. I like tube amps for mid-frequencies. They're so darn sweet. And for HF/treble, solid state amps are just fine in almost any incarnation. One doesn't run much power above 8 kHz.
But that's just me.
It'll start a religious-war of preferences.
And maybe being an old fuddy-duddy, my predilections of digital-ness and analog-ness are outdated.
Actually, sure they are.
But it doesn't mean they're unfounded!
AND YES - I prefer triamped speakers if there's just going to be a pair of main ones with a separate subwoofer.
GoatGuy
I don't know what that means. Why is the 6 channel bad? Even though I don't know much, it's starting to sink in, and that looks like a pretty simple build. What is this other thing that you mention? Got links? How does it sound?
Also, are these a good option: Sure Electronics AA-AB34181 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
I also see this has a promotion attached. This looks like an excellent candidate for a new build. Somebody to confirm? TPA3250D2EVM TPA3250 70W Stereo / 130W Peak Ultra-HD Analog-In Audio Class-D Pad-Down Module | TI.com
Also, are these a good option: Sure Electronics AA-AB34181 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
I also see this has a promotion attached. This looks like an excellent candidate for a new build. Somebody to confirm? TPA3250D2EVM TPA3250 70W Stereo / 130W Peak Ultra-HD Analog-In Audio Class-D Pad-Down Module | TI.com
If you look at the 3250's big brother, the 3255, you could get 6 channels like this: board 1 = 4x single ended, ~45 watts per channel for tweet/mid. Board 2 = 2x bridged chsnnels, ~180 watts per channel for the woofers. The meanwell lrs350-48 works well and you need one per evm board.
It takes rca inputs so something like a minidsp could get you going without much in the way of deep circuit understanding or assembly. You can only get one board on a name, so both you and your son would need to order one.
It takes rca inputs so something like a minidsp could get you going without much in the way of deep circuit understanding or assembly. You can only get one board on a name, so both you and your son would need to order one.
I've got a separate sub amp, so the extra module would be for future expansion.
These are my drivers:
ScanSpeak Illuminator D3004/6600 AirCirc Tweeter Textile Dome
ScanSpeak Revelator 18W/8531G-00 7" Mid Woofer 8 ohm
Would 2 of the 3255's, wired for 4x SE each, be a good match for these drivers? (granted, I know that I'm not using all that power now, but maybe I add a second set of mains, or a do a 4-way build later on)
What power supply would be a good fit for the 2X 3255?
Thanks for the advice.
These are my drivers:
ScanSpeak Illuminator D3004/6600 AirCirc Tweeter Textile Dome
ScanSpeak Revelator 18W/8531G-00 7" Mid Woofer 8 ohm
Would 2 of the 3255's, wired for 4x SE each, be a good match for these drivers? (granted, I know that I'm not using all that power now, but maybe I add a second set of mains, or a do a 4-way build later on)
What power supply would be a good fit for the 2X 3255?
Thanks for the advice.
You have already bought those drivers??? Well it's nice to have a massive budget, but this is not really a cost/value proposition, those are premium drivers that need to be a treated with respect and a lot of experience, it's like buying a box of truffles and a goose, and attempting to make foie gras with Périgueux sauce as your first dish.
There are plenty of really excellent drivers in the $20-$40 range that are arguably easier to work with.
There are plenty of really excellent drivers in the $20-$40 range that are arguably easier to work with.
I certainly did buy them. I am building a nice project with my son, who is interested in electrical engineering. (having a quality relationship with an older kid is a luxury that not every parent has) And since I bought nice drivers, I don't want to build a junkyard amplifier. When it's done, I intend to appreciate them for a very long time.
Not that I feel that I need to justify any of that to you. I work hard, make an honest living, and I've bought the drivers that I wanted, with the fruits of my labors. Please feel free to help us maximize the enjoyment during our build and test, or else feel free to not inject pessimism into the conversation. I'm seriously OK with either of those options. But we've done the $20-$40 builds, and decided to go bigger and better. Just for the love of building and learning.
As Ian Anderson famously sang, "The train won't stop going, No way to slow down..."
Not that I feel that I need to justify any of that to you. I work hard, make an honest living, and I've bought the drivers that I wanted, with the fruits of my labors. Please feel free to help us maximize the enjoyment during our build and test, or else feel free to not inject pessimism into the conversation. I'm seriously OK with either of those options. But we've done the $20-$40 builds, and decided to go bigger and better. Just for the love of building and learning.
As Ian Anderson famously sang, "The train won't stop going, No way to slow down..."
On another note, I have a power supply available from an old IBM Server Grade workstation. It is described as follows:
Electrical power specifications
530-watt supply continuous
Sine-wave (50 or 60 Hz) required
Input voltage and frequency ranges automatically selected
Built-in overload and surge protection
90 to 137 (nominal) V ac; 50 or 60 Hz; 8.0 A (maximum)
180 to 265 (nominal) V ac; 50 or 60 Hz; 4.0 A (maximum)
Input kilovolt-amperes (kVA) (approximately)
Minimum configuration: 0.13 kVA
Maximum configuration: 0.55 kVA
Seems like this might be a little over the top, but maybe, just maybe it would be suitable for building a dual board amp with the TPA3255 modules?
Electrical power specifications
530-watt supply continuous
Sine-wave (50 or 60 Hz) required
Input voltage and frequency ranges automatically selected
Built-in overload and surge protection
90 to 137 (nominal) V ac; 50 or 60 Hz; 8.0 A (maximum)
180 to 265 (nominal) V ac; 50 or 60 Hz; 4.0 A (maximum)
Input kilovolt-amperes (kVA) (approximately)
Minimum configuration: 0.13 kVA
Maximum configuration: 0.55 kVA
Seems like this might be a little over the top, but maybe, just maybe it would be suitable for building a dual board amp with the TPA3255 modules?
Not really what you're looking for power wise. Save it for a project once your son is in undergrad and is building stuff for classes. (Not that I have any experience with that )
I mentioned it above, but the easiest bet for 2x TPA3255EVM boards would be either 2x "Meanwell LRS-350/48" or "Meanwell SE-600/48"
Nothing wrong with nice drivers if you've got them. No sense putting them to waste! My dad and I built (aka he mostly built) some wonderful Seas/Scanspeak speakers, and I certainly value that time with him.
(Not that I have any experience with that )I mentioned it above, but the easiest bet for 2x TPA3255EVM boards would be either 2x "Meanwell LRS-350/48" or "Meanwell SE-600/48"
Nothing wrong with nice drivers if you've got them. No sense putting them to waste! My dad and I built (aka he mostly built) some wonderful Seas/Scanspeak speakers, and I certainly value that time with him.
What is the difference in these two power supplies, besides the color and the price?
Mean Well MW SE-600-48 48 VDC 12.5A 600W Regulated Power Supply
Amazon.com: MEAN WELL SE-600-48 AC to DC Power Supply, Single Output, 48V, 12.5 Amp, 600W, 1.5": Industrial & Scientific
Mean Well MW SE-600-48 48 VDC 12.5A 600W Regulated Power Supply
Amazon.com: MEAN WELL SE-600-48 AC to DC Power Supply, Single Output, 48V, 12.5 Amp, 600W, 1.5": Industrial & Scientific
Look the same to me. If you have Amazon Prime...go for it!
Were you getting the miniDSP to install inside the 6 channel amp or the completed miniDSP in a box? If the completed box, I'd make two 3 channel amps, each with the MEAN WELL LRS-350-48 power supply ($39). Wiring/cabling will be neater, and the left/right amps look nice flanking the miniDSP.
Mike
Amazon link is the same cost as Allied Electronics, and you can piggyback to get other bits/pieces you'll need for the build at the latter.
Not that you'll need the power, but the lrs-350-48 is less than half the cost at Allied as well. Use one per board.
I'm also assembling an electronics box as an all-in-one from Tinkerboard through amps. I have my boards sitting dangerously in free air, but I'll be getting a 4u case for my setup where I can put all the PSUs in one chamber, the amps in another and the digital-side in a third. 4u is nice because you can flip the EVM boards on their side and get them to fit comfortably, whereas a 3u case is too cozy.
Not that you'll need the power, but the lrs-350-48 is less than half the cost at Allied as well. Use one per board.
I'm also assembling an electronics box as an all-in-one from Tinkerboard through amps. I have my boards sitting dangerously in free air, but I'll be getting a 4u case for my setup where I can put all the PSUs in one chamber, the amps in another and the digital-side in a third. 4u is nice because you can flip the EVM boards on their side and get them to fit comfortably, whereas a 3u case is too cozy.
And now the fun part - internal wiring selection
So, I've got my modules and power supply. (2) TI TPA3255EVM and a Meanwell 600W power supply.
I'm kinda fumbling around trying to figure out which wire type and diameter to use. I've seen a few different opinions in a few different threads.
I'm guessing that wiring for power and signal doesn't have to be as exotic as most audiophiles would have us believe. Since I'm saying things like that, I clearly wouldn't know the difference, anyway. But I'd like to do as good a job as I can, within a reasonable pricing structure.
Advice on wiring and terminal connections?
So, I've got my modules and power supply. (2) TI TPA3255EVM and a Meanwell 600W power supply.
I'm kinda fumbling around trying to figure out which wire type and diameter to use. I've seen a few different opinions in a few different threads.
I'm guessing that wiring for power and signal doesn't have to be as exotic as most audiophiles would have us believe. Since I'm saying things like that, I clearly wouldn't know the difference, anyway. But I'd like to do as good a job as I can, within a reasonable pricing structure.
Advice on wiring and terminal connections?
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