Hey all,
I been a lurker here for a while and wondered if I could ask for a little help.
I'm currently building a speaker from parts laying about the house... I would like it to have its own amp and I'm not particularly fussed about battery operated as it's fairly big!
I have 1 x 6.5" driver and two tweeters.
I thought I would have the 6.5" driver take a full range signal in mono, and have the tweeters on the sides in stereo again with full range but with a capacitors filtering the signal.
My issue is finding an amp, or amps that I could wire to allow this.
Ideally I'd like to have 2 stereo amps and bridge one of them mono. But none of the digital amps (tda2020) ect allows you to bridge.
I have seen the 3 channel amps out there however it seems their bass channel is filtered below about 400hz roughly. This is no good as I don't want it filtered. (could I remove a component on these amps????)
Like this.
TDA7498 2.1 DC24V-32V Class D 3 Channel 200W+100W+100W Digital Amplifier Board | eBay
Then I thought I would split the signal at the input stage, but again you cannot just do this as soon as you connect the L&R it becomes mono for both Amps.
Would any of you have an idea of how I could achieve my idea?
I don't particularly need huge power but I think I'm in the region of about 50/100w into the 6.5" driver.
Thanks all!
I been a lurker here for a while and wondered if I could ask for a little help.
I'm currently building a speaker from parts laying about the house... I would like it to have its own amp and I'm not particularly fussed about battery operated as it's fairly big!
I have 1 x 6.5" driver and two tweeters.
I thought I would have the 6.5" driver take a full range signal in mono, and have the tweeters on the sides in stereo again with full range but with a capacitors filtering the signal.
My issue is finding an amp, or amps that I could wire to allow this.
Ideally I'd like to have 2 stereo amps and bridge one of them mono. But none of the digital amps (tda2020) ect allows you to bridge.
I have seen the 3 channel amps out there however it seems their bass channel is filtered below about 400hz roughly. This is no good as I don't want it filtered. (could I remove a component on these amps????)
Like this.
TDA7498 2.1 DC24V-32V Class D 3 Channel 200W+100W+100W Digital Amplifier Board | eBay
Then I thought I would split the signal at the input stage, but again you cannot just do this as soon as you connect the L&R it becomes mono for both Amps.
Would any of you have an idea of how I could achieve my idea?
I don't particularly need huge power but I think I'm in the region of about 50/100w into the 6.5" driver.
Thanks all!
Well, first of all, tweeters are usually much more efficient (ie. louder per watt) than midranges / woofers, so you'll want some padding-down of the signal anyway.
Regarding cut-off frequency between those, sounds like one of those 2.1 boards should serve you just fine, as long as you mod the circuit a bit (replace a couple resistors & caps) to bring the cut-off frequency closer to what you'd want / need in this case - i'm thinking no lower than 1.5kHz or so.
Ever heard of "baffle step correction / compensation"? That's just one extra reason why you would NOT want the 6.5" going full-range. In that case, you'd have ALL THREE drivers providing the midrange & high-end, but just ONE (and not very efficient / loud, at that) driver doing the low-mids & bass.
Well, that's unless you're after ear-piercing bass-less sound, but what do i know?
Regarding cut-off frequency between those, sounds like one of those 2.1 boards should serve you just fine, as long as you mod the circuit a bit (replace a couple resistors & caps) to bring the cut-off frequency closer to what you'd want / need in this case - i'm thinking no lower than 1.5kHz or so.
Ever heard of "baffle step correction / compensation"? That's just one extra reason why you would NOT want the 6.5" going full-range. In that case, you'd have ALL THREE drivers providing the midrange & high-end, but just ONE (and not very efficient / loud, at that) driver doing the low-mids & bass.
Well, that's unless you're after ear-piercing bass-less sound, but what do i know?
thanks for the reply, i looked at the boards i had for these and i dont know where to start!
i did some research and managed to get something working that fits the bill by adding 2 10k resistors to the input side.. joining them and connecting them to the speaker.. and it works!
i have some fine tuning to do, but it should suffice.
now all thats needed is adding a cap to roll off above 2.5k or so, and make sure the caps on the tweeters are no rolling off too much...
thanks
i did some research and managed to get something working that fits the bill by adding 2 10k resistors to the input side.. joining them and connecting them to the speaker.. and it works!
i have some fine tuning to do, but it should suffice.
now all thats needed is adding a cap to roll off above 2.5k or so, and make sure the caps on the tweeters are no rolling off too much...
thanks
What you need is a 2.1ch amp board with a individual volume adjustment capability.
In such amp boards like tpa3116 2.1ch boards, they are typically configured as 50+50+50x2. First two outputs are for tweeters or full range speakers and the last bit is for the woofer. You probably want a board with adjustments for cross-over frequency, base volume.
In such amp boards like tpa3116 2.1ch boards, they are typically configured as 50+50+50x2. First two outputs are for tweeters or full range speakers and the last bit is for the woofer. You probably want a board with adjustments for cross-over frequency, base volume.
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