Huh?Well..
input --> wire --> amp.
to you talking about the full power source from dac directly to sure input?
have to careful to not blow the speakers ....
You complain it's waaaaay to low even at full volume at your attenuator and say "you can connect something wrong" and you can't find the fault aaaand your other amp got so much more power and now you're scared you might have been wrong anyway?
The amp needs 1,27V for full power. I strongly doubt your DAC delivers that voltage. Look into its technical data, it's likely around 0,775V. If you've ruled out everything mentioned so far and can't measure it, that will show you if you need a preamp or not. I really think you do.
The amp is not that powerful anyway, unless you are using low impedance speakers. 400W on 3 Ohm means you've got 300W on 4 Ohm, that makes it 150W on 8 Ohm. Don't worry, most folks are decieved by the huge number in the description and buy it because of the wrong reasons.
I have a ab31511 1x500 and I have tried to run it with different sps from 19 to 40v , from 3 amps to 12, including a mean well 36v, using a Dayton 15" 4 ohm subwoofer driver. Regardless of the power supply is seems that the maximum current I can feed the amp before the red light start blink ( clip) is 2 amps at 40 volts feeding several test tones. I can drive it up to 3 amps but the light is constant red and the sound quality drops down. To all practical effects it seems that at 4 ohms the monoblock can produce about 70 watts, far from what is stated for very low distortion, that should be more than twice this amount.
Is this the expected output of the unit? (About 1/4 of the rated output before the sound starts clipping and degrading). And if this is so, and the unit can pump about 2 amps at 4ohms and 1.5 amps at 6 ohms, before cliping and we have to.accpet that these are the limits of the unit, what is the point on buying 20 amps power supplies for the 313 or 10 amps for the 511when their practical limit less than third of the stated current ratings?
Is this the expected output of the unit? (About 1/4 of the rated output before the sound starts clipping and degrading). And if this is so, and the unit can pump about 2 amps at 4ohms and 1.5 amps at 6 ohms, before cliping and we have to.accpet that these are the limits of the unit, what is the point on buying 20 amps power supplies for the 313 or 10 amps for the 511when their practical limit less than third of the stated current ratings?
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Sure tech support
This is what sure said after I forwarded them my concerns:
1. The red light is not for error indicator but for signal level indicator, which means it will be lighting when the amplifier comes into the power stage.
With power higher and higher, the red light will change to a brighter color.
2. When its current is 2 A, there’s no clipping and the power is still Getting higher.
This is what sure said after I forwarded them my concerns:
1. The red light is not for error indicator but for signal level indicator, which means it will be lighting when the amplifier comes into the power stage.
With power higher and higher, the red light will change to a brighter color.
2. When its current is 2 A, there’s no clipping and the power is still Getting higher.
2301-V-RC - BOURNS JW MILLER - Toroidal Inductor, High Current, 2300 Series, 10 mH, 20 A, 5000 mohm, +- 15% | Newark element14
I found this coil, 20A is that better or 10.8 is enough?
2101-V-RC - BOURNS JW MILLER - Toroidal Inductor, High Current, 2100 Series, 10 mH, 10.8 A, 6000 mohm, +- 15% | Newark element14
I found this coil, 20A is that better or 10.8 is enough?
2101-V-RC - BOURNS JW MILLER - Toroidal Inductor, High Current, 2100 Series, 10 mH, 10.8 A, 6000 mohm, +- 15% | Newark element14
Hello, I have vintage JBL L110 speakers ( https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/jbl/l110.shtml ) and I'm thinking about pairing them with some Sure board. Has someone got experience with similar 8ohm speakers or recommendations of which board to pick? I was thinking about 2x100w or 2x200w T-AMPS. Could 2x 100w TPA3116 monos work or would some IRS2092 amp be a better match?
Silly me, the pinout is shown on the silkscreen.
I've traced the signal path and from the RCA input to Vin which has a 33K resistor to ground then a series smd ceramic capacitor to block DC and then through the switch to Vout.
I don't know the value of this capacitor but I'm sure this is what defines the low frequency -3dB cutoff of 20Hz. To lower the cutoff frequency an electrolytic cap can be 'plugged' between Vin and Vout with positive to Vout which I measure at 2.68 volts.
I will experiment with a few different values but I fear that too large a value will cause a thump at power on as larger caps will take longer to charge
Bought a Wondom Tamp2400 mkii Gremlin from Germany and Hobbyhifiladen. Wondom is apparently the new name for Sure Elecronics consumer division.
As far as I can tell it is the same as an upgraded AA-AB32313, the coils are bigger.
Problem is, I can't find this exact model in Sure's homepage. Anyone has more info on this?
As far as I can tell it is the same as an upgraded AA-AB32313, the coils are bigger.
Problem is, I can't find this exact model in Sure's homepage. Anyone has more info on this?
I'll check that later. For some reason i didn't take a photo of the underside of the modules. Right now the amp is playing classic rock on high volume
I'll check that later. For some reason i didn't take a photo of the underside of the modules. Right now the amp is playing classic rock on high volume
Time flew by...
Model number is WONDOM AB23251V120. Output filter look like picture below.
Attachments
Hello guys, newbie question here, I just recieved my board and see that the DC input says VCC and GND, are the VCC supposed to be connected to the v+ from my 36V DC smps and the GND to the v-?
On my other amp modules there has been a + and - mark on the PCB an I'm not sure what VCC and GND means.
Thanks!
On my other amp modules there has been a + and - mark on the PCB an I'm not sure what VCC and GND means.
Thanks!
Thank you. Got it working, and to my ears with my speakers unfortunately it's a dissapointment compared to the 10$ TDA7498 modules I own. Might have been that I forgot to connect the speaker cables, and noticed one of them were mistakenly + and - wired together on high power and might have damaged the amplifier
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