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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

SANWU TPA3116 + CSR8635 Bluetooth 4.0 - Noise Fix
SANWU TPA3116 + CSR8635 Bluetooth 4.0 - Noise Fix
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Old 19th March 2018, 03:58 PM   #201
doctormord is offline doctormord  Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrX View Post
hi which caps do you mean?
Are you going to keep the 5532 Diff2SE opamp stage? If yes, then

SANWU TPA3116 + CSR8635 Bluetooth 4.0 - Noise Fix-sanwu_tpa3116_csr8635_v2-2_4_orig_1600_new-jpg

If you remove the Diff2SE opamp, then the values marked in RED apply for the caps marked in YELLOW. (As the red ones get removed when bypassing the opamp stage)

Values are calculated for f(-3B)cut-off at 12Hz.
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Old 19th March 2018, 04:25 PM   #202
millstonemike is offline millstonemike  United States
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Originally Posted by doctormord View Post
... Excessive popping is due to the capacitance value of the dc-blocking-caps when their bias-voltage is removed.
On a TPA3116 2.1 module, I found that removing the PS Bypass caps solved the turn off popping. I put them upstream of the power-on switch. My theory, without the bypass caps, there isn't any stored energy to create a pop when the supply voltage drops to where the amp is unstable.
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Old 19th March 2018, 05:55 PM   #203
doctormord is offline doctormord  Germany
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The pop is due to imbalance on the inputs when the powersupply collapses. That's why there's /SDZ and /MUTE available to the system integrator.

Pop-Issues are also fixed by this litte circuit:

TPA3132D2 Simple Antipop Schematic – #360customs
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Old 19th March 2018, 08:07 PM   #204
KrX is offline KrX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctormord View Post
Are you going to keep the 5532 Diff2SE opamp stage? If yes, then

Click the image to open in full size.

If you remove the Diff2SE opamp, then the values marked in RED apply for the caps marked in YELLOW. (As the red ones get removed when bypassing the opamp stage)

Values are calculated for f(-3B)cut-off at 12Hz.

ok thanks for that, i think i will leave the Diff2SE opamp as it is.

so i need to change the yellow once with 680nF and the red once with either 1500, 470 or 220nF ? but how do i know which i should take?
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Old 20th March 2018, 11:23 AM   #205
doctormord is offline doctormord  Germany
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The standard config on these boards is 36dB for the TPA3116, so 1500nF is needed. In most cases 20dB is more than enough, which can be achieved by removing R27 "753". After gain is reduced, 220nF is okay here.

Another mod is to change those 4 "753" resistors around the 5532 for "223" (75k -> 22k) to bring down the gain to 1.

You may try this in combination with changing the yellow caps to 680n.
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Old 20th March 2018, 02:43 PM   #206
KrX is offline KrX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctormord View Post
The standard config on these boards is 36dB for the TPA3116, so 1500nF is needed. In most cases 20dB is more than enough, which can be achieved by removing R27 "753". After gain is reduced, 220nF is okay here.

Another mod is to change those 4 "753" resistors around the 5532 for "223" (75k -> 22k) to bring down the gain to 1.

You may try this in combination with changing the yellow caps to 680n.
ok thanks for clearing that up. i will order the right caps and try it.
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Old 20th March 2018, 03:18 PM   #207
doctormord is offline doctormord  Germany
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Originally Posted by doctormord View Post
Another mod is to change those 4 "753" resistors around the 5532 for "223" (75k -> 22k) to bring down the gain to 1.
This refers to the gain of the Diff2SE stage. (not the TPA3116)
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Old 30th March 2018, 10:43 PM   #208
orto is offline orto  United States
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Originally Posted by Radio Joe View Post
Okay today I played around with the AUX input a bit. Actually it turned out to be pretty easy.. I enabled one PIO input, set "USB AUDIO ALWAYS ROUTED" (Dont know if that is needed) and the Inputs began working. Setting a user event for Wired input seemed to make no difference.

I learned the Volume level of the AUX in is related to the A2DP Default volume level which is a bit of a bummer since I set it low to make the audio tones a reasonable level, but with it low, the AUX input is very quiet. setting to 15 makes the AUX level much more reasonable but still not as loud as the BT audio.

But all of this is a bit unimportant because the original issue of popping when the unit shuts down the AMP seems to still be there- So I am guessing that its not because the amp is shutting down, its more to do with the Muting process... and Amplifier gain as you mentioned previously. Im thinking the next step is removal/ bypass of the components you mentioned for the preamp.

Project for a later day....
Do you mind sharing a screenshot, or giving info on how you enabled the one PIO input? I've finally got my board all wired up, but haven't been able to get the AUX in enabled yet.
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Old 11th April 2018, 06:12 PM   #209
orto is offline orto  United States
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Side question, has anybody been able to change or upload their own voice prompts? I am pretty sure I have bricked a module or two attempting to do so, but I really want to get it working. I am using the configuration tool and created a wav file with similar settings to the example audio, but no luck.
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Old 12th April 2018, 11:47 PM   #210
rich111 is offline rich111  United Kingdom
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I have a similar module but it runs the CSR 64215 and PCM5102a.

I bought it hoping it would not suffer the usual problems of popping and hissing but it makes a slight hiss for a few seconds after you stop playing music - then goes quiet.
It makes a small pop when you start playing any input again.

I'm running 48 ohm headphones but I've tried feeding it to line-in on my PC and it has the same issue.

Is there any way to fix this board? I found and attached a PDF showing how they wired it.

They somehow managed to get the left and right channels swapped on the design, even though the channels appear to be correctly routed between the DAC and the headphone socket.
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