eBay class D board for car audio

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Hello.

My little Toyota Aygo is in for an audio upgrade.
The front system will consist of a three way system with tweeters in the a pillars, 3,5" midranges in the dashboard and 6,5" woofers in the doors.
In addition there is a 10" Inifinty basslink active subwoofer in the boot.

I recently came across a Alpine PXE650 DSP module. It has 2x3 way crossovers as well as a subwoofer output, perfect for making a fully active system in my Aygo.

I really don't want huge amps in the trunk in this little car and I am actually quite happy with the SPL provided by the original headunit which is fitted with a TA8266HQ chip.

I am really tempted to try the numerous boards that I find on eBay as they can be hidden in the dashboard or under the glovebox compartment as there is enough space under there to make a stealthy install while still having the heatsinks getting free air.

So, which boards are any good? I have read so much about poorly designed output filters etc that I am totally confused and must rely on other's experiences.

I was thinking about three of these boards:

TDA7498 100W New 100W Class D High Power Amplifier Board DC20V to DC36V Hot | eBay

Since the run on 20V I need some sorts of DCDC converter. Will this fit the bill or is it not usable for audio? Perhaps adding some larger filter caps would make it usable for audio?

Buy 150W DC 10~32V to DC 12~35V Adjustable Step-Up Mobile Power Supply Module for Laptop

Any input would be appreciated.

:)
 
The work on 12V appearantly. And comes with a standby input so I can connect them to the remote lead on the headunit.

The minimum recommended voltage for the TDA7498 is 14V. It will not work at 12V. Keep in mind that at 14V you will not get any more power than you would out of a typical head unit.

Also, you can't just hook the remote wire up to the standby pins; they don't work like that. You would have to use a relay.
 
The minimum recommended voltage for the TDA7498 is 14V. It will not work at 12V. Keep in mind that at 14V you will not get any more power than you would out of a typical head unit.

Also, you can't just hook the remote wire up to the standby pins; they don't work like that. You would have to use a relay.

Yeah, but I'm not searching for more SPL than what I currently have now, just less distortion.

If the amp works on 12V, the thread I linked to says that it does (even if the datasheet says it's not the recommended minimum voltage), I expect better sound quality compared to the headunit as I'd go all active three way and use 4th order active crossovers.

If 12V does not suffice, would the DCDC converter be a good way to boost the voltage while still maintaining sound quality?

I do know I need some relay arrangement to use the standby function. The remote cable from the headunit could power a relay that in turn have a potential free contact set to enable standby, right?
 
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