I only found a problem if I attached the scope probe after it was switched on.
If you attach the scope probe first then switch it on it will be ok.
I spent a long time learning about the 2092. It took me 3 pcb revisions before I got one that didn't reset on high power output.
My decoupling and pcb layout was poor.
The output mosfets need close decoupling and also need snubbers.
The 2092 needs decoupling close too.
Its more likely to be poor/fake components or a design fault.
You could try again with new 2092 and new mosfets from a reputable dealer.
When the mosfets go they usually are shorted source to drain.
I would be inclined to replace 2092 and all mosfets with genuine parts.
Check the gate drive transistors too or just replace them.
You could try again with new 2092 and new mosfets from a reputable dealer.
When the mosfets go they usually are shorted source to drain.
I would be inclined to replace 2092 and all mosfets with genuine parts.
Check the gate drive transistors too or just replace them.
if you find the iraud200 threads on this forum, you can see how I made a pair of those behave quite well. They are irs2092 direct drive with overtemp protection and irfb4227 .. working beautifully for like a year now. +/- 70 volt drive and 2 ohm loads, but requires heat sinks on the 2092 chips .. don't just run these boards out of the box, look at the iraud200 thread before even hooking them up.
Last edited:
Resetting issue
Nigel can you help me with my issue on l30D. It worked well now start to reset on half the power. On dc+ rail measuring above 1.4Amp is resetting. How did you fix the resetting issue? Everything else is working well ( except the heating but I am using forced colling and its ok ).
Thanks
Nigel can you help me with my issue on l30D. It worked well now start to reset on half the power. On dc+ rail measuring above 1.4Amp is resetting. How did you fix the resetting issue? Everything else is working well ( except the heating but I am using forced colling and its ok ).
Thanks
I found I had to spend a bit of time getting over current detect circuits to work at high powers. Increase the resistors to get a higher over current detect limit. See datasheet for resistor values.
I also found driving mosfets with high gate capacitance needed low value gate resistors, as low as 4r7. I found I could get away with 10r if I used gate driver buffers.
I also found driving mosfets with high gate capacitance needed low value gate resistors, as low as 4r7. I found I could get away with 10r if I used gate driver buffers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
What's the difference between l15d-smd and l15d-pro
I actually ordered a pair of L15d-pro kits but was sent the L15d-smd in error. The seller did correct the error and sent the Pro allowing me to keep the smd.
I've tried both, powered on an 500w 50v smps from EBay too.
When looking at these little things you want to try to find a flaw in the sound - but I can't. They seem just as good as my other bi-polar and FET amps, except the power. You can turn the power up and up and up and not a hint of strain in sight.
Today I have these connected to my homebuilt studio monitors based on Monitor Audio drivers. These are 6 ohms with 16cm bass drivers and I have them turned up as loud as I dare.
The smd version sound colder with the top end very transparrent, the pro a little warmer, still crisp - perhaps a little better on bass especially on the lower end.
Despite many searches I cannot find schematics for either of these, however the circuits seem to vary a lot - Can anybody say exactly what are the differences.
I actually ordered a pair of L15d-pro kits but was sent the L15d-smd in error. The seller did correct the error and sent the Pro allowing me to keep the smd.
I've tried both, powered on an 500w 50v smps from EBay too.
When looking at these little things you want to try to find a flaw in the sound - but I can't. They seem just as good as my other bi-polar and FET amps, except the power. You can turn the power up and up and up and not a hint of strain in sight.
Today I have these connected to my homebuilt studio monitors based on Monitor Audio drivers. These are 6 ohms with 16cm bass drivers and I have them turned up as loud as I dare.
The smd version sound colder with the top end very transparrent, the pro a little warmer, still crisp - perhaps a little better on bass especially on the lower end.
Despite many searches I cannot find schematics for either of these, however the circuits seem to vary a lot - Can anybody say exactly what are the differences.
+/- 80V power supply
Will the L30D run with a +/- 80V power supply (quoted as going up to +/-83V on higher mains input voltages)?
I'm planning to use a pair to drive two 4 ohm PA woofers at 500-600W RMS (for the loudest passages) and wanted a bit of headroom, though from what I've seen these modules will be a bit stressed with that much voltage?
I can see already that I'll need to beef up the heatsinking, and will make a separate speaker protection board (DC/unloaded).
The version I have of the L30D has 4r7 gate resistors with a diode in parallel for faster turnoff, has emitter coupled pair for gate drivers and appears to be otherwise OK for the task. I do notice that the heatsink (which is soldered on and at ground potential) is sitting right above the +/- rails without insulation and I'm a bit concerned that with a bit of vibration the solder mask will get cut through with some spectacular firworks to follow shortly after...
I might look in to an auxiliary supply for the L2092, I don't like the idea of dropping 150 odd volts across a resistor for more than 1 or 2 mA, seems like a lot of heat for not much gain..
Thanks,
Duncan
Will the L30D run with a +/- 80V power supply (quoted as going up to +/-83V on higher mains input voltages)?
I'm planning to use a pair to drive two 4 ohm PA woofers at 500-600W RMS (for the loudest passages) and wanted a bit of headroom, though from what I've seen these modules will be a bit stressed with that much voltage?
I can see already that I'll need to beef up the heatsinking, and will make a separate speaker protection board (DC/unloaded).
The version I have of the L30D has 4r7 gate resistors with a diode in parallel for faster turnoff, has emitter coupled pair for gate drivers and appears to be otherwise OK for the task. I do notice that the heatsink (which is soldered on and at ground potential) is sitting right above the +/- rails without insulation and I'm a bit concerned that with a bit of vibration the solder mask will get cut through with some spectacular firworks to follow shortly after...
I might look in to an auxiliary supply for the L2092, I don't like the idea of dropping 150 odd volts across a resistor for more than 1 or 2 mA, seems like a lot of heat for not much gain..
Thanks,
Duncan