Question regarding Sure TK2050

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Hi,

First of all, I'd like to say hello to all of the forum members here. I had a question in regards to my recent amplifier purchase, and this board came highly recommended. I will definitely appreciate any input I receive.

I'm in the process of building a 2 x 100 home amplifier using this board: 2x100W at 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-T Audio Amplifier Board Only

In one of the reviews, it was highly recommended that the power supply capacitors (the two banks of four caps flanking the heat sink) be replaced by larger value caps. The OP of the review gave a recommendation of two 10,000uF caps, and I purchased them from Digikey. In his instructions, he says to de-solder all of the factory caps, wire the two 10K caps in parallel, and solder the leads from them into just ONE of the open spaces where the factory caps used to be.

Am I wrong, or would the remaining areas on the board where the old caps used to be leave an open circuit? Or are the traces from each cap ran separate from each other rather than them all being paralleled? My own knowledge of these boards is limited, but I did want to get a 2nd opinion in case the OP may have misconstrued his instructions. Would it hurt to just de-solder one cap from each side, then run leads from each of the new caps to that open space while leaving the rest of the factory caps in place?

Thanks for your time.
 
What are you using for a power supply?

I don't know what the rating of the caps on the board are, but the smaller parallel caps have the advantage of lower ESR and higher ripple current rating.

Depending on what you are using for power (transformer, SMPS, battery?) putting the larger caps directly off board might be a better idea.
 
Thanks for the response. The 8 factory caps on the board are 220uF each for a total of 1,760uF at 50v for the two TK2050 chips. The small DTA-2 amp alone uses one TK2050, and it uses a 2,200uF 50v cap. From what I've read, it's recommended to use at least 10K uF for this particular chip.

The board is best used with a switching power supply, so I got a 18-20 3.5 amp high quality laptop supply.

The amp as it sits is very impressive, but since I'm already building it I figured I'd go ahead and try the cap upgrade.
 
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