Anaview AMS0100-2300 build

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Superlian, how do you find the 0100 sounding?

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Very good. I dont think i miss something compared with class First Watt Sit2 but i have not compared A/B. Both have low noise and clear transparent sound.

The only thing i am not satisfied with are the popp 1 second after i turn it on. I use good quality PP capasitors for DC protection on the loudspeaker cable so it isnt dangerous, just anoying.
 

TNT

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Very good. I dont think i miss something compared with class First Watt Sit2 but i have not compared A/B. Both have low noise and clear transparent sound.

The only thing i am not satisfied with are the popp 1 second after i turn it on. I use good quality PP capasitors for DC protection on the loudspeaker cable so it isnt dangerous, just anoying.

Thanks! Did you build anything on the input side or do you just hook them up as is?

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Very good. I dont think i miss something compared with class First Watt Sit2 but i have not compared A/B. Both have low noise and clear transparent sound.

The only thing i am not satisfied with are the popp 1 second after i turn it on. I use good quality PP capasitors for DC protection on the loudspeaker cable so it isnt dangerous, just anoying.


I have compared drirectly an anaview and l'Amp (a very simple amp with SIT) on my compression driver, and I prefer very much the SIT amp.
The SIT amp is more lively.
 
I have compared drirectly an anaview and l'Amp (a very simple amp with SIT) on my compression driver, and I prefer very much the SIT amp.
The SIT amp is more lively.

Could you please describe more in details. I am now playing on SIT2 and the differences are not huge or maybe not there at all?

Gain is significant lower with SIT2 and noise is higher.
Maybee SIT2 is a little bit smoother. I use SIT2 on the midrange horns from 550-3000 with JBL2446 and Truextent beryllium diapraghm?

https://api.imgur.com/3/image.json
 
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Hi

I use this :
- l'AMP with 2x TD4001 from 750Hz to 20kHz,
- an hafler TA1600 with 2x ALTEC 406 and a litle horn from 150Hz to 750Hz (I tried l'amp, and a mini ALEPH and ther are better than the anaview, l'Amp is the best / I built a VFET PART2 for the medium)
- and the ANAVIEW with 2x ALTEC 416 (the anaview have better bass than the TA1600)

L'Amp is just a little more defined and natural, there is a little noise if I put my head in the horn, but it's not a problem.
The main difference not easy to describe, the anaview, is "dull", I can't ear music with the it it's borring, there is no life.

I have try 2x ALTEC 420A, the result is the same.

There is only 2 caps and one VFET without CR on the signal, it's more natural than any opa...

I don't know if everyone would have the same conclusion with the test, maybe I don't like numeric amp...

Proton
 
Ill try again :)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/293339-5-way-horn-acoustic-elegance.html

Fostex T500 : >10000 Hz
Radian 475 be : Tractrix 1000 : 2800-10000 Hz
JBL 2446 be from Truextent : Tractrix 200 : 600-2800 Hz
2x AE TD12M : closed enclosure : 80-600 Hz
AE TD18H+ : vented enclosure : <80 Hz

Groundsound 4 way digital active crossover/dac/preamp (IIR with PEQ & Delay):
Ground Sound

First Watt B4mk1 2 way analoge active electronic crossover:
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_b4_man_old.pdf

(Since i need 5 way crossover i use First Watt B4 after Groundsound and then cross T500 and Radian 475be)


Sonos Connect Magna Ultimo mod

Hypex Ucd2K dual mono
Anaview AMS1000
3x Anaview AMS0100

8 x RPG Modex Plate 1
2 x RPG Absorbor in ceeling
2 x RPG BAD
A lot of diy custom absorbers in combination with the RPG products

Diy rack


VMHXFKn.jpg


hiGJRLq.jpg
 
I have 2 AMS0100 boards. These will be assembled into Hammond 1550EBK cases and sit behind my speakers.
My existing ALC0300 amps will then move to my hobby room.
I see from data sheet that disable function is different and is now pull down to disable.
I would like to keep the red/green LED standby/on indication as on my existing amps.
Signal is from my pre-amp which contains an Arduino so I can program pin to pull-up or pull-down. However, with amp powered and pre-amp not powered, the amp must default to Disable. Does the attached schematic look OK before I order some common anode LEDs.
 

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