i have a single 8ohm, 40watt high sensitivity fullrange speaker in a br-box, that is used for outdoor / boombox purposes.
i already own tpa3116 boards which i´m very happy with for other applications.
...but since i do not need excellent sound quality, but perfect matching supply for the single speaker, i came across the 3123.
without hesitation i ordered this board yesterday:
MINI 2channels TPA3123 Class D Digital AMPLIFIER BOARD ASSEMBLED 20W+20W | eBay
(ebay-links from foreign countries usually do not work for me, but here you go.)
today i came across this board on aliexpress and i´m almost ready to order this one, too.
Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3123 Class D digital amplifier board 25W +25 W with Mute Sleep-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com
$9.77 with free shipping to germany is such a great offer.
well now,....
i want to bridge that little monkey.
as far as i understand the ti-datasheet it should be quite easy and fit my speaker quite well.
is it really as simple as desoldering and bridging the big caps at the outputs and chose the left positive output as negative output?
do i overlook something?
any thoughts on that venture?
i already own tpa3116 boards which i´m very happy with for other applications.
...but since i do not need excellent sound quality, but perfect matching supply for the single speaker, i came across the 3123.
without hesitation i ordered this board yesterday:
MINI 2channels TPA3123 Class D Digital AMPLIFIER BOARD ASSEMBLED 20W+20W | eBay
(ebay-links from foreign countries usually do not work for me, but here you go.)
today i came across this board on aliexpress and i´m almost ready to order this one, too.
Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3123 Class D digital amplifier board 25W +25 W with Mute Sleep-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com
$9.77 with free shipping to germany is such a great offer.
well now,....
i want to bridge that little monkey.
as far as i understand the ti-datasheet it should be quite easy and fit my speaker quite well.
is it really as simple as desoldering and bridging the big caps at the outputs and chose the left positive output as negative output?
do i overlook something?
any thoughts on that venture?
as creating a diferential signal seems to be the key to bridge the 3123 successfully, i leave all that in this thread...
the outputs must have a 180 deg phase delay.
this is what the above does.
i found another solution on the same site (fig 4).
Balanced Transmitter and Receiver II
this seems more simple.
is it achievable in practice?
how can volume control be added to this?
the outputs must have a 180 deg phase delay.
this is what the above does.
i found another solution on the same site (fig 4).
Balanced Transmitter and Receiver II
this seems more simple.
is it achievable in practice?
how can volume control be added to this?
This board is BTL into 50 W and may be what you want
2X50W Stereo Class D Audio Power Amplifier Circuit Board TI TPA3123 | eBay
2X50W Stereo Class D Audio Power Amplifier Circuit Board TI TPA3123 | eBay
Anonymous,
Thanks for the link - good stuff in there. Why is it that the tpa3116 doesn't require such a balanced input driver when running in mono PBTL mode? Or maybe it does and the op amp is indeed there on the few boards sold as this. I just recall one of the Audiobah boards only required bridging a couple of solder points to achieve a parallel bridged mode.
Thanks for the link - good stuff in there. Why is it that the tpa3116 doesn't require such a balanced input driver when running in mono PBTL mode? Or maybe it does and the op amp is indeed there on the few boards sold as this. I just recall one of the Audiobah boards only required bridging a couple of solder points to achieve a parallel bridged mode.
The 3116 has full-bridge outputs, the 3123 has single ended outputs.
Like mentioned above, the 3116 is taking care of that internally.
Or one can use a balun - all you need is a small transformer. However, opamp and resistors are cheaper, but you do need a power supply to run the opamp. Some "audiophiles" that I known of really like to the idea of "transformer coupling"
.Regards,
i recieved both boards in the meantime.
the red board sounds quite ok.
i didn´t listen too much with it, because i lend it to a friend.
i didn´t listen to green one.
it came without the plug-in-part of the connectors.
i consider to change those plug-connectors for screw-terminals.
overall it looks not so good manufactured.
also the seller from aliexpress declared the package as a gift.
that was a big mistake.
german customs don´t like to get fooled.
i had to pay 6€ extra.
for the money it did cost me in total i could have purchased a blue yj tpa3116 board.
the red board sounds quite ok.
i didn´t listen too much with it, because i lend it to a friend.
i didn´t listen to green one.
it came without the plug-in-part of the connectors.
i consider to change those plug-connectors for screw-terminals.
overall it looks not so good manufactured.
also the seller from aliexpress declared the package as a gift.
that was a big mistake.
german customs don´t like to get fooled.
i had to pay 6€ extra.
for the money it did cost me in total i could have purchased a blue yj tpa3116 board.
i have added 'differential' outputs to a preamp made on a perf board.
today my friend will back the red tpa3123 board.
can i simply connect the preamp to L and R and leave GND free?
Does it work with the volume control?
can i leave the output capacitors?
what will the effect of not removing them be?
today my friend will back the red tpa3123 board.
can i simply connect the preamp to L and R and leave GND free?
Does it work with the volume control?
can i leave the output capacitors?
what will the effect of not removing them be?
damn!
i'm such an idi*t.
i prepared everything for a test with green board.
then i accidentally switch + for - at the dc input.
the chip popped.
now i'm at my next victim the red board.
first time i compare the components to those from the datasheet...
looks like yuan-jing has changed a few component values.
they even didn't use what they printed onto the pcb.
maybe those smd capacitors are not what the printing says.
the inductors they use have no printing on it.
does anyone have an idea, what value this might be?
10uH maybe?
i'm such an idi*t.
i prepared everything for a test with green board.
then i accidentally switch + for - at the dc input.
the chip popped.
now i'm at my next victim the red board.
first time i compare the components to those from the datasheet...
looks like yuan-jing has changed a few component values.
they even didn't use what they printed onto the pcb.
maybe those smd capacitors are not what the printing says.
the inductors they use have no printing on it.
does anyone have an idea, what value this might be?
10uH maybe?
I can understand U6 being an input buffer, and U5 providing a low impedance virtual ground. Then there is U11 providing the non-inverted signal and U1 providing the inverted signal. But I'm wondering what U2 and the associated resistors and capacitors are there for. Are they filtering out some frequency components? Do they allow for tone adjustments?
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