Hi guys,
Im a newbie here but ive been browsing the forum for a while now, im building a fairly high output bike trailer soundsystem and im looking for an amp board that is bridgeable to give upto 1000W at 8ohms running from a battery supply. I cant seem to find many options, most higher power boards require a +/- supply, the best i could find was the Sure TAS5630 board but it only gives about 200W at 8 ohms.
Has anyone got any suggestions?
Many thanks
James
Im a newbie here but ive been browsing the forum for a while now, im building a fairly high output bike trailer soundsystem and im looking for an amp board that is bridgeable to give upto 1000W at 8ohms running from a battery supply. I cant seem to find many options, most higher power boards require a +/- supply, the best i could find was the Sure TAS5630 board but it only gives about 200W at 8 ohms.
Has anyone got any suggestions?
Many thanks
James
Instead of paralleling 12V batteries + adding a car amp PSU it is more suitfuil to connect the required number of batteries in series to achive the required voltage. No matter if you are heading for a single rail or +/- supply.
In the year 2013 for such applications lead type batteries are a stone age choice.
My preference is clearly LiFePO4 with a proper BMS.
Brands like Headway offer also respectable cell sizes like used in e-bikes.
BMS means battery management system and should include a balancer+overcharge protection+deep discharge protection.
General note:
Adressing such power as a newbie in a DIY system typically leads to more or less expensive accidents. Be ready for the fight and be ready to pay for gaining experience. Consider safety precautions. Never give up.
If you just want a fast and cheap success - better don't start at all.
In the year 2013 for such applications lead type batteries are a stone age choice.
My preference is clearly LiFePO4 with a proper BMS.
Brands like Headway offer also respectable cell sizes like used in e-bikes.
BMS means battery management system and should include a balancer+overcharge protection+deep discharge protection.
General note:
Adressing such power as a newbie in a DIY system typically leads to more or less expensive accidents. Be ready for the fight and be ready to pay for gaining experience. Consider safety precautions. Never give up.
If you just want a fast and cheap success - better don't start at all.
The problem with charging several batteries in series off the bike's alternator is not possible and therefor the second post from Tinitus is probably the most suitable.
In stead of building DC to DC converter the simplest is to buy a 12VDC to 120VAC 1000 watt inverter for $150 and rectify the output and centre tap the output transformer at half potential, then you end up with a 60V - 0 - 60V rms power supply, this would equate to a 82 + 82 VDC supply maybe still a bit short but close to what is required for ar 1000 watt amp.
In stead of building DC to DC converter the simplest is to buy a 12VDC to 120VAC 1000 watt inverter for $150 and rectify the output and centre tap the output transformer at half potential, then you end up with a 60V - 0 - 60V rms power supply, this would equate to a 82 + 82 VDC supply maybe still a bit short but close to what is required for ar 1000 watt amp.
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Or as the old saying goes: to get to be almost a millionaire out of selling audio equipment all you need is to have two millions to start with.
Thanks guys, This is for a push bike trailer not a motor bike, ive been considering LiFePO4 cells, but its more likely to be SLA/gel batterys, it depends on how much power is possable though, i havent found a cost effective solution that will give more than 200W@8ohms and if thats all i can get then i might opt for LiFePO4 cells.
Any suggetions on amp boards? Im not overly keen on using a dc-dc covertor due to the power loss, i would prefer to use multiple batterys.
Cheers guys.
Any suggetions on amp boards? Im not overly keen on using a dc-dc covertor due to the power loss, i would prefer to use multiple batterys.
Cheers guys.
Im using a 12" tapped horn sub, ~100dB sensitivity which is about as high as is possable with reasonable extension, and with the size and weight constraints, the original plan was high sensitivity and low power, im just looking into how much power is possable, without spending silly money.
It does not have to last for long, arround an hour at full power with music program, so about 40Ah at 12V should run a 1000w class d amp for an hour with musical content, and longer if its not run at full power (quite likely scenero).
It does not have to last for long, arround an hour at full power with music program, so about 40Ah at 12V should run a 1000w class d amp for an hour with musical content, and longer if its not run at full power (quite likely scenero).
Hm ... there is a solution which also should fit to a newbie.
Simply go for a car audio system. There are plenty of powerful classD amps and accessories available everywhere.
Of course this internally employs again more conversion stages,
but this approach is easy to handle from technical perspective and has good
chances to work without many accidents during learning.
P.S. Jsixis comment on the speakers is definitely pointing to a valid topic.
On the other hand: Stick to 1kW and combine it with 100db/W horn speakers
Simply go for a car audio system. There are plenty of powerful classD amps and accessories available everywhere.
Of course this internally employs again more conversion stages,
but this approach is easy to handle from technical perspective and has good
chances to work without many accidents during learning.
P.S. Jsixis comment on the speakers is definitely pointing to a valid topic.
On the other hand: Stick to 1kW and combine it with 100db/W horn speakers
Im not a complete newbie, im a newbie to this forum, and fairly new to electronics, ive designed and built plenty of PA speakers,but i just dont have much experence with amplifier design. Iv always bought PA amps.
ChocoHolic, ive been looking at 4 channel class d car amps, and finding something that will do much more than 150W with 2 channels bridged into 8 ohms is prooving trickey, there are lots of class a/b amps, but not many 4 channel class d amps, it might be my best option, but i would like more power if i can, if i can get close to 130dB on a push bike i think it will be fun
ChocoHolic, ive been looking at 4 channel class d car amps, and finding something that will do much more than 150W with 2 channels bridged into 8 ohms is prooving trickey, there are lots of class a/b amps, but not many 4 channel class d amps, it might be my best option, but i would like more power if i can, if i can get close to 130dB on a push bike i think it will be fun
Ooops I thought this was something serious
...serious...
...definitely a serious thing seems to be your 2400 bank charger..
I guess that's beyond the target of this thread.
@ timebomb:
You could go for an active crossover. For subs you will find a large variation
of available high power class D amps.
Alpine / Pioneer / Kicker....
Personally I am currently using an Alpine PDX-M12 and had good luck with this choice. It is expensive, but it does more or less what they have put on the label.
For mid and tweeter it should be easy to find suitable full range amps.
Feel free to stroll through the car hifi section.
There are nerds who think that even the PDX-M12 is not enough...
Yup, the center tap in the middle of the series connection is then your zero volt.
Ahh i thought that might be an issue, are the LiFePO4 battery packs not just lots cells in series? Or do you get higher voltage cells? Or are they just more stable than lead acid? Are Nicads an option? Or do they have the same issues as Ni-MH? Are you saying that for higher power levels a dc-dc convertor is the best option, im assuming most car amps will have one?
That Alpine amp looks good, would give me an extra 6dB over most other options, its a bit expensive, ill keep an eye on ebay and see if i can find a 2nd hand one. I will be using an active crossover, looks like i will use a smaller 2/4 channel car amp bridged to power the 2 8" drivers for mid high, most seem to be about 150w at 8ohms bridged which is enough for the 8"s.
If i did a centre tap at 48 would this cause issues with the input no longer being referenced to 0V? as 0V would now be +48V?
Thanks for your help guys!
Merry Christmas!
That Alpine amp looks good, would give me an extra 6dB over most other options, its a bit expensive, ill keep an eye on ebay and see if i can find a 2nd hand one. I will be using an active crossover, looks like i will use a smaller 2/4 channel car amp bridged to power the 2 8" drivers for mid high, most seem to be about 150w at 8ohms bridged which is enough for the 8"s.
If i did a centre tap at 48 would this cause issues with the input no longer being referenced to 0V? as 0V would now be +48V?
Thanks for your help guys!
Merry Christmas!
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