Any amp with high impedance inputs connected to non powered sources will pick up noise or produce hiss because it is either ungrounded or not live in order to provide some input source impedance. I don't think it's unusual for the tpa3116 to do this. With preamp turned on the hiss is only audible with your ear next to the driver right?
Your are welcome.
I have to admit though, the first time I looked at its picture, I "felt in love" with the Goldpoint attenuator. it looked so solidly built and all the joints are meticulously made. However, I just cannot afford it.
One see quite a number of those blue/green atenuators (usually ladder/serial type) that uses 1% resistors on EBay. The quality of the workmanship varies. Nevertheless, I read that they usually work fine. However, the stereo ones are quite bulky and take up a lot of space. The one on this link is quite compact and should fit nicely in the small chasis that I planned for my next 3116. By the way, in this website, they also has the same attenuators that have connecting wires soldered to the attachment points so they can be placed onto the PCB directly (some people like it, some don't).
Regards,
Regards,
The Goldpoints are quite stunning, but like you I can't justify spending that much on a volume control. Whereas ~£7 on the one in your Aliexpress link was easier to justify. Thanks agin for bringing it to my attention, I'm looking forward to giving it a go with my YJ blue board.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=p2g1503-nd
another option. This is another that has been getting tossed around for quality and price.
I'm a little confused by the acceptance of a hiss when not plugged into a source. With everyone cheering the merits of this board and also talking about just leaving it plugged in all the time. Does that mean your speakers are constantly hissing or do you just leave it plugged into something? I will be running mine off of my phone so I can't just leave it there. I'm assuming the hiss isn't supposed to be there and can be gotten rid of? I'm really just guessing as this is all really new to me.
I got my blue board hooked up last night and the noise before plugging my phone into it was awful. Sounded like a broken guitar amp or something. I assume that is from not having shielded cables yet or a poor soldering job on the wires from me.
On a side note. It had absolutely no problem driving my 8" 4ohm event 20/20's.
The rap sounded particularly awesome.
On full volume (direct from phone, no pot so not as loud) for about 20 minutes the amp started cutting out. The heat sink was almost too hot to touch.
I got my blue board hooked up last night and the noise before plugging my phone into it was awful. Sounded like a broken guitar amp or something. I assume that is from not having shielded cables yet or a poor soldering job on the wires from me.
On a side note. It had absolutely no problem driving my 8" 4ohm event 20/20's.
The rap sounded particularly awesome.
On full volume (direct from phone, no pot so not as loud) for about 20 minutes the amp started cutting out. The heat sink was almost too hot to touch.
Why wouldn't your source be plugged in all the time. That's just normal. Having a preamp with multiple inputs even more normal.
Great isn't it... been running the new OB's with the pair of YJ 2.0 blue board & just the 200Hz XO through the miniSharc... very impressive stuff indeed
Not connected, mine hiss... plugged into the miniSharc set-up there is no hiss or on/off transient noise.
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For my Nautaloss speakers I have settled on a 200 Hz xo freq also. Seems to provide the best balance and sounds natural with 24dB LR on both LP and HP XO. I also don't have any hiss plugged into miniDSP.
Indeed it sounds very impressive and I can't believe how much better my system sounds than most $2k stereos at the box stores.
A lot of performance we are getting with DIY nowadays.
Indeed it sounds very impressive and I can't believe how much better my system sounds than most $2k stereos at the box stores.
A lot of performance we are getting with DIY nowadays.
I've read the designer of the TBI Millenia (that uses the TPA3100D2) uses some kind of SMD CRC filter as an upgrade to the amp's power supply input and the feedback is it does a lot. Anyone have any idea of what kind of filter that would be?
OK, I thought more then a few folks would be using these with an iphone type device as a source. What I'm building here is a portable boombox. So I don't think I'll be going so in depth on this boombox that I want to build in a pre. Basically because of the added cost and probably different power source needed. I will be building another one to use as a dedicated home setup with one of the little bear pre's. Maybe I should just grab another board to complete this build?
Any recommendations or can anyone say here if the red board does not hiss if left plugged in?
Maybe adding one of these typical IEC input jack filters may help? CRC and LC filter as far as I can tell.
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/1951596.pdf
Or look at the CRC snubber circuit that the TPA3116D2 datasheet uses - and put the same thing on the input power rails as close to the Vcc pins as possible. The TI spec sheet uses a 1nF-3.3R-10nF CRC combo like this:
Attachments
Just received the following
Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design
and running it stock off a 12v sla battery driving a pair. of Pensil 7 with Markaudio Alpair 7.2
1. Amazingly good. Beats a tripath TK2050 with capless mod.
2. Plenty of bass.
3. Good mids. High possibly not as airy as the tripath (but it has been running for just 3h).
4. Dead silent (the tripath is dead silent with caps but not with the capless mod)
5. Right and left input are wrongly marked.
6. Took a long time to arrive. I ordered it just before the beginning of the Chinese new year and got it 10days ago.
This is not specific to this board. Unlike what somebody wrote me in reply to a previous post, shunting the mute pin to ground does not mute the amp (though shunting the Sd pin does shut it down). If anybody has the correct info on how to mute it, I would appreciate it. Would connecting mute and SD pins do it?
TIA
Giulio
Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design
and running it stock off a 12v sla battery driving a pair. of Pensil 7 with Markaudio Alpair 7.2
1. Amazingly good. Beats a tripath TK2050 with capless mod.
2. Plenty of bass.
3. Good mids. High possibly not as airy as the tripath (but it has been running for just 3h).
4. Dead silent (the tripath is dead silent with caps but not with the capless mod)
5. Right and left input are wrongly marked.
6. Took a long time to arrive. I ordered it just before the beginning of the Chinese new year and got it 10days ago.
This is not specific to this board. Unlike what somebody wrote me in reply to a previous post, shunting the mute pin to ground does not mute the amp (though shunting the Sd pin does shut it down). If anybody has the correct info on how to mute it, I would appreciate it. Would connecting mute and SD pins do it?
TIA
Giulio
Just got a notice that mine arrived. I also ordered it at beginning of Chinese New Year. Could care less now. I'll just toss it in a box somewhere.
Wushuliu,
Wow, yours took even longer than mine which were 2 months. These boards are nice sounding and well built. Give it a try - I am curious how they compare to the YJ Blue board. They definitely deliver solid bass down to 20 Hz - an amazing feat for something so small. I also noted that connecting the mute pin to ground does not mute it. It runs very cool - no detectable temperature rise in either the inductors or the chip heatsink.
Wow, yours took even longer than mine which were 2 months. These boards are nice sounding and well built. Give it a try - I am curious how they compare to the YJ Blue board. They definitely deliver solid bass down to 20 Hz - an amazing feat for something so small. I also noted that connecting the mute pin to ground does not mute it. It runs very cool - no detectable temperature rise in either the inductors or the chip heatsink.
From data sheet:
"Mute signal for fast disable/enable of outputs (HIGH = outputs Hi-Z, LOW = outputs enabled). TTL logic
levels with compliance to AVCC."
If it is a hard connection to gnd then you can do nothing with it.
If there is a resistor then you can do something with it.
It depends on whether the mfr wanted that feature available.
"Mute signal for fast disable/enable of outputs (HIGH = outputs Hi-Z, LOW = outputs enabled). TTL logic
levels with compliance to AVCC."
If it is a hard connection to gnd then you can do nothing with it.
If there is a resistor then you can do something with it.
It depends on whether the mfr wanted that feature available.
From data sheet:
"Mute signal for fast disable/enable of outputs (HIGH = outputs Hi-Z, LOW = outputs enabled). TTL logic
levels with compliance to AVCC."
If there is a resistor then you can do something with it.
It depends on whether the mfr wanted that feature available.
I guess me and the previous poster are a bit unclear about where to get a voltage for HIGH. The evaluation board schematic uses a transistor, but I was hoping it was enough to connect mute to SD which is usually in HIGH state unless the amp is off.
TIA
Giulio