Thanks for the tip. Someone on another forum thread regarding the TPA3110D2 amp suggested using these types of Ferrite beads:
Mouser PN 623-2643000801
Fair-Rite Ferrite Cable Cores 43 SHIELD BEAD Z=92 OHM @ 100MHz
$0.11 each
Digikey PN M8707-ND
Bourns FERRITE BEAD 200MHZ .297 LENGTH
$0.18 each
Here's my latest Sure TPA3110D2 amp build using a Panasonic EVJ 50k volume pot. Added a Panasonic FC 1800uF / 25V at the power supply input and replaced the stock 220uF / 25V power supply caps with Panasonic FM 1500uF /25V. I don't have any radio interference issues, but I guess if I did, I would slide a bead over each wire between the channel outputs and the binding posts. For an idea of size, the chassis has a slightly larger footprint than my iPhone 5.
I have been following this thread since the beginning and like so many others I am very pleased with this amp. But I would be very interested to hear after 122 pages if anyone has demoted any of their amps/receivers in favor of the TPA3116? If so, what in particular have you demoted? For some reason, I get the feeling that most are just playing around with this amp for fun and bringing it out on rainy days. Is anyone using this amp more or less as a fixture in any of their listening spaces?
Personally, I want to demote a 80's Kenwood Basic M1 amp/C2 preamp combo. I was a/b-ing them yesterday and the bass is just so much more punchy and plays lower too. This setup is in an area that is used for uncritical listening, so other aspects of the amp's performance is not as crucial to me, though I think the TPA 3116 is more transparent too. But before I do this I need to mod mine and find a way to get two sets of speakers hooked up. Essentially I need a preamp, preferably a passive pre, that has two preamp outs, so I can run two TPA3116 amps. Any thoughts?
Personally, I want to demote a 80's Kenwood Basic M1 amp/C2 preamp combo. I was a/b-ing them yesterday and the bass is just so much more punchy and plays lower too. This setup is in an area that is used for uncritical listening, so other aspects of the amp's performance is not as crucial to me, though I think the TPA 3116 is more transparent too. But before I do this I need to mod mine and find a way to get two sets of speakers hooked up. Essentially I need a preamp, preferably a passive pre, that has two preamp outs, so I can run two TPA3116 amps. Any thoughts?
I use the TPA3116 as my main amp now. The Yamaha RX360 is demoted to serving as the subwoofer amp (200 Hz and below). This has been my main amp for some time now - I don't have any reservations about it. I have not tried to YJ boards and have been using Dug's board. I also made a dead bug style TPA3118 and that sounded about the same as the same SMD components were used.
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My yj delux board still did not came. I have 4 rms 40 watt speakers and one pioneer 150 w rms 30 cm subwoofer. If i like the sound of the yj board than i will order breeze board because it is inside case and have sub control pots. Another option is selling subwoofer and buying a biy class ab stereo amp like yamaha as500.
Nice job. I love these TPA3110 boards from Sure. What a great deal they are.[/QUOTE
Ditto.
My next project will be mounting one inside the little enclosure below which almost fits like a glove (and as a result does not provide much room for connectors, upgraded capacitors etc. though). Any suggestions for better caps with a maximum height of 16mm btw.?
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I'm guessing he's referring to the stock electrolytics which are 220uF /25V.
Correct.
However, I read in a customer review on Parts Express that replacing the input 1uF SMD caps with 10uF caps will enhance the bass so I'm considering that option too.
Correct.
However, I read in a customer review on Parts Express that replacing the input 1uF SMD caps with 10uF caps will enhance the bass so I'm considering that option too.
Why are you saying correct to it's the decoupling caps when you write input caps below? Which one is it you mean?
I was asking about the decoupling caps. I just thought I would pass on the idea about upgrading the small SMD input caps to 10uF ones in case others might find it useful.
Btw. I had my eyes on ELNA Silmic II (RFS) with regards to the decoupling caps but 220uF 25V or above is not an option since they're to tall to fit inside my little enclosure. Alternatively I would have to bend the wires 90 degrees and mount them horizontally but I'm not sure whether that would be a great idea?
That way I could probably squeeze in up to a pair of 470uF 25V (they measure 16mmD x 25mmL).
The ELNA white paper claim these to be "audio grade" and claim better audio quality without providing a shred of evidence why that would be so. Generally though, "audio grade" actually means low frequency range optimized which any part of a class D amp except for the input is not. If I was to choose, I'd go for hybrid electrolytic caps as the bulk cap as these have considerably lower ESR and up to 10 times better ripple current handling than an electrolytic cap for the same voltage and capacity. The small size penalty is overcome by the fact that you'd need smaller capacity.
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Today yj delux board came. They got 2 lira (1 usd) custom tax which happens first time for me despide i ordered many things for at least 5 years and for that reason i think i will never order sth more expensive than 200 usd. I have installed the board with 19 v 6.5 A notebook power supply. Before connecting power i have connected speakers. Input signal comes from laptop having connexant hd audio-24 bit-192 khz . As player i used foobar. Connected 2x40w rms pioneer car speakers which i like more than many home speaker aand one pioneer subwoofer.
I listened Pink MArtini flacs 1)Tempo Perdido 2)City of Night, listened some waws converted from Marantz Hi-End Audiophile Test Demo CD 2011,for bass test i listened 2 songs of Brooklyn Bounce 1) Get Ready to Bounce 2) Canda also listened some songs of The latin jazz side-Audiophile sound 14 album .
I think mids and trebles are balanced and very seperable and i liked that. I have a STK 461 amplifier that i bought in 1997 and supplied by 250 w transformer too and i think in spite of its low power its sound is much more powerful than TPA3116 especially basses. TPA3116 can be different too if more power is supplied IMO. Basses seems acceptable too but is is much less than 20w stk 461 circuit.
I have an important problem with the system. As soon as i connected the stereo audio cable to laptop, i hear a whistle. Volume level of the whistle is low but when music stops, it is hearable. I turn the volume pot and whistle increases. Another thing i did not like is that it has little bit noise which is independent from the volume pot, it is constant, very low but hearable in silence 40 cm far from the speaker.
I did not use the woofer for a long time and the woofer woke up today after many years and i think it is better to listen to music with a woofer having at least 30 cm diameter because drums and some instruments are much better and natural this way.
I listened Pink MArtini flacs 1)Tempo Perdido 2)City of Night, listened some waws converted from Marantz Hi-End Audiophile Test Demo CD 2011,for bass test i listened 2 songs of Brooklyn Bounce 1) Get Ready to Bounce 2) Canda also listened some songs of The latin jazz side-Audiophile sound 14 album .
I think mids and trebles are balanced and very seperable and i liked that. I have a STK 461 amplifier that i bought in 1997 and supplied by 250 w transformer too and i think in spite of its low power its sound is much more powerful than TPA3116 especially basses. TPA3116 can be different too if more power is supplied IMO. Basses seems acceptable too but is is much less than 20w stk 461 circuit.
I have an important problem with the system. As soon as i connected the stereo audio cable to laptop, i hear a whistle. Volume level of the whistle is low but when music stops, it is hearable. I turn the volume pot and whistle increases. Another thing i did not like is that it has little bit noise which is independent from the volume pot, it is constant, very low but hearable in silence 40 cm far from the speaker.
I did not use the woofer for a long time and the woofer woke up today after many years and i think it is better to listen to music with a woofer having at least 30 cm diameter because drums and some instruments are much better and natural this way.
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I think you might have a problem with your old amp if you prefer car audio speakers as those are designed with elevated higher mid and tweeter range due to being designed to be placed in a car which is both a very small listening room, and very absorbent to higher mid and tweeter range due to most surfaces being covered by absorbent material (the seats).
When i was a student i made that for building a stereo system with a limited budget. So they are not choosen for an amplifier as usual. I think coaxiel car speakers are very good for diy projects with a suitable cabinet because they are cheaper and some of them have good sound, details, frequency range , crossover and tweeters are on the speakers. Just design the cabinet and try it, so easy. Of course speakers designed for home systems are more convenient for home environment but i still like the sound of coax speakers.They sound different than they sound in car. And pioneers play very balanced with tpa3116 board. If there is bad matching, any speaker amplifier combination may not sound good. Now a days i have listened some speaker amplifier combinations too also listened some car systems.
I think i will listen those speakers with tpa3116 for a while if i can solve the problem of that whistle that goes if i unplug the audio cable from computer, if i plug it to pc or phone whistle begins. Any advices for that?
I think i will listen those speakers with tpa3116 for a while if i can solve the problem of that whistle that goes if i unplug the audio cable from computer, if i plug it to pc or phone whistle begins. Any advices for that?
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Hi muraxz!
How about the temperature of the output inductors? I find this is the Achilles heels (not to mention any other issue) of the popular Class D modules. I use currently an IRAUDAMP7S , and the beads getting very hot in a few minutes after switch on. Someone suggested in this thread to replace the build-in beads to Bourns type, these will decrease the temperature significantly. Do you have any experience?
I've ordered the same deluxe board than yours, for my daughter and hope it will arrive in the next few day. I'll report on the comparison test soon.
How about the temperature of the output inductors? I find this is the Achilles heels (not to mention any other issue) of the popular Class D modules. I use currently an IRAUDAMP7S , and the beads getting very hot in a few minutes after switch on. Someone suggested in this thread to replace the build-in beads to Bourns type, these will decrease the temperature significantly. Do you have any experience?
I've ordered the same deluxe board than yours, for my daughter and hope it will arrive in the next few day. I'll report on the comparison test soon.
On the first class d amp I built I used a power supply inductor and this got to 120 degrees C !
I now use a t106-2 core with 27uH inductance.
It barely gets warm under idle conditions.
I don't think class d emi is as bad as people try to make out.
The residual carrier going to the speaker on my designs is less than 5 volts peak to peak and 250KHz.
You just need the right filter component values.
hi Egra. I tried some minutes of loud music not more because i came home in evening and think if i keep on listening that loud, they would not be the happiest neighbours of the world.
But i am listening with a normal volume level for some hours. There is no sign of noticeable warming on the inductors. They do not seem warmer than the room temperature. Heatsinks are cool too. My satellites and woofer are 4 ohms
Saturnus, when power on, and signal cable is not connected to computer, there is no whistle. I touch my hand to signal cable, hear noise from speakers but no whistle. I connect the signal cable to laptop or phone and whisle begins. Cable is blended philips. Do you think that it is about power supply? I think here may be an interference with a signal carried on input signal cable.But i am not sure.
But i am listening with a normal volume level for some hours. There is no sign of noticeable warming on the inductors. They do not seem warmer than the room temperature. Heatsinks are cool too. My satellites and woofer are 4 ohms
Saturnus, when power on, and signal cable is not connected to computer, there is no whistle. I touch my hand to signal cable, hear noise from speakers but no whistle. I connect the signal cable to laptop or phone and whisle begins. Cable is blended philips. Do you think that it is about power supply? I think here may be an interference with a signal carried on input signal cable.But i am not sure.
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