~$8 for a pcbboard with two tpa3116's isn't terribly expensive 😀
XH-M190 ´ó¹¦ÂÊÊý×Ö¹¦·Å°å TPA3116Ë«ºËÐÄ100WÒôƵ·Å´ó°å 12-24V-ÌÔ±¦Íø
XH-M190 ´ó¹¦ÂÊÊý×Ö¹¦·Å°å TPA3116Ë«ºËÐÄ100WÒôƵ·Å´ó°å 12-24V-ÌÔ±¦Íø
This one looks sweet, $50, bluetooth 4.0, RCA inputs, bluetooth connection automatically takes priority over analogue in when a phone's connected. If I had the money I'd get in in a heartbeat.
Aliexpress.com : Buy YJ dual 50VAC 0 50VAC IRS2092 + IRFB23N15D Class D amplifier board Dual rectifier with protective from Reliable rectifier bridge suppliers on Best Partner Mall | Alibaba Group
That is a YJ blue black core. Made by YJ so naturally they would use the blue black as basis. Looks like a 5v switcher supply for the BT.
yes 33uH/1uF, power will be same as smsl36pro into 8 ohm and that one does look better, this one just uses 2 TI chips and cost less.
Kim Schultz, the board you are looking have doesn't have psu noise filtering cap close to the chip so expect some hiss from that board. Also the psu cap is placed far away which makes things even worse. But since its a lot of room around the chip a quick soldering job would fix noise problem. Also it does not have a RC filter on the output so treble sibiliance could be expected cause of the long traces to the chokes. I would not use this card stock with efficient speakers.
Yeah I agree, most of the cheap boards needs more or less modification to perform their best.
But at this price and including the BT4 receiver, I think it is worth it.
Red 2.0 vs. Blue and Black
Hello,
I personally like the YJ red 2.0 board just as it is. I have a so called "blue and black" board also. Both boards not modified in any way. The latter has an Alps blue 50K ohm volume pot/control.
Let me say something a couple things:
1) I don't know why these guys are experiencing any turn on/turn off "pops" with either of these boards. If you use a power supply such as a Meanwell which is over 2 AMPS (that's important)....well, I get no turn on noise.
And a turn off noise which is so infinitesimal it's not even worth noting.
In fact, my wife just gave me an old NEC monitor brick type/computer type power supply of about 19 VDC that was 2 amps and it sounds fine and operates fine.
2) Also, the volume control on every YJ 2.0 board I've purchased so far has been well matched. Despite what you may be reading here.
OK, back to sonics. I prefer the YJ 2.0 vs. the YJ blue and black. And the 2.0 is less expensive. (That NEVER happens with me!)
I think many here are making modifications just to make modifications (which is fine). But not for me. I'm not saying I'll never modify a board but the consensus on the sonic improvements would have to be overwhelming for me to do so. I've actually traded some filter caps on boards in the past and found no real change. Maybe it's just me.
My 2 cents. Just get a board and enjoy it. You'll have less than $35 wrapped up in the whole thing and it's well worth it. These amps run quiet and sound great and you can just leave them on all the time with little guilt or expense! What's not to love?
Mark
Hello,
I personally like the YJ red 2.0 board just as it is. I have a so called "blue and black" board also. Both boards not modified in any way. The latter has an Alps blue 50K ohm volume pot/control.
Let me say something a couple things:
1) I don't know why these guys are experiencing any turn on/turn off "pops" with either of these boards. If you use a power supply such as a Meanwell which is over 2 AMPS (that's important)....well, I get no turn on noise.
And a turn off noise which is so infinitesimal it's not even worth noting.
In fact, my wife just gave me an old NEC monitor brick type/computer type power supply of about 19 VDC that was 2 amps and it sounds fine and operates fine.
2) Also, the volume control on every YJ 2.0 board I've purchased so far has been well matched. Despite what you may be reading here.
OK, back to sonics. I prefer the YJ 2.0 vs. the YJ blue and black. And the 2.0 is less expensive. (That NEVER happens with me!)
I think many here are making modifications just to make modifications (which is fine). But not for me. I'm not saying I'll never modify a board but the consensus on the sonic improvements would have to be overwhelming for me to do so. I've actually traded some filter caps on boards in the past and found no real change. Maybe it's just me.
My 2 cents. Just get a board and enjoy it. You'll have less than $35 wrapped up in the whole thing and it's well worth it. These amps run quiet and sound great and you can just leave them on all the time with little guilt or expense! What's not to love?
Mark
+1
This no pop might be the result of limited slew rate due to either the PSU or the high resistance of the pot. Beside this, the amps normally don't pop when switched on while pot is turned low. So is mine as well.
This no pop might be the result of limited slew rate due to either the PSU or the high resistance of the pot. Beside this, the amps normally don't pop when switched on while pot is turned low. So is mine as well.
I added the RC filter (3.3 ohm in series and 330uF shunt cap to gnd) between analog power inn and PVCC in on Taobao 2.0. Also lowered gain from 32db to 26db and the hiss was lowered considerably(barely audible at 50cm). Btw the tiny card I linked to earlier also had to much hiss in my setup. It has less hiss than Taobao stock but still too high for my nearfield use. As a side note, the treble and bass adjustment seemed to work fine.
Sure TPA 3116
Hi folks,
I just finally received Sure TPA3116 board for my system...
It seams that speaker polarity labels are corrected on new batches...
Also, I got one with broken condenser at the bottom of the board, actually two; I can see under a loupe that the second one next is half broken, probably by the person assembling heatsink. Those ar the two condensers next to the heatsink screw, C44 and C36.
What is the role of those condensers and does anyone have their capacitance value or even better an Sure TPA3116 schematic.
🙁
Hi folks,
I just finally received Sure TPA3116 board for my system...
It seams that speaker polarity labels are corrected on new batches...
Also, I got one with broken condenser at the bottom of the board, actually two; I can see under a loupe that the second one next is half broken, probably by the person assembling heatsink. Those ar the two condensers next to the heatsink screw, C44 and C36.
What is the role of those condensers and does anyone have their capacitance value or even better an Sure TPA3116 schematic.
🙁
Attachments
Value probably 1uF. Send Sure picture and they probably send another board?? if this board would miss 2 out of 32(28) similar ceramics
So, I got zero response to my question. I went ahead and bought a boxed tpa3116 (blue board and psu) from yuan jing. It works quite well together with ns-1000 I must say, just as good as my hypex as2.100d (hypex ucd100) and much better than a adcom gca510 (essentially a gpa-535 with a passive pre)....and for the little money paid I would say it's ridiculously good.
Will start to scan the net for info regarding how to modify it to get a little bit improved bass control.