I am looking for suggestions on what amp to buy that will power adequately a TC Sounds LMS Ultra 5400 sub driver. I have done a bit of reading and it appears that it will take virtually anything you can throw at it.
One quote stating “And like a fat kid at christmas dinner, it'll be looking for 3rds and 4ths !!!!!”
It seems from specs that I have seen that it will take 2000w for a couple of hours and up to 8000w peak. I don’t want to buy any bigger than I need, but then again I don’t want to buy anything too small, so I would appreciate any and all suggestions.
Obviously this is not a cheap driver so I don’t want to cheap on the amp either, but I am looking for value for money.
One quote stating “And like a fat kid at christmas dinner, it'll be looking for 3rds and 4ths !!!!!”
It seems from specs that I have seen that it will take 2000w for a couple of hours and up to 8000w peak. I don’t want to buy any bigger than I need, but then again I don’t want to buy anything too small, so I would appreciate any and all suggestions.
Obviously this is not a cheap driver so I don’t want to cheap on the amp either, but I am looking for value for money.
Do you have the TC Sounds driver yet mate? You know there is now an Aussie supplier for these (The Loudspeaker Kit)
Amps ... well that's, big. I think most would recommend pro amps mounted out of the way for this application though, and they're pretty right, DIY for something of this power level is not for the faint hearted.
A slightly more modest amp option might be Aussie amps Class AB nxV800 or nxV1200 powered by an SMPS. I have 2xnxV203 powered from a coldamp SPS80 SMPS with two bridged channels in each nxv203 'module' powering L/R subs and the third channel in each powering my front L/R speakers. My subs are 12in peerless 830500, so obviously they're not after the same amount of power as you're talking, though sometimes I wonder if they could do with a bit more than 300W, though I'm more inclined to build a 3rd sub (15in LMS-R or a dayton ultimax 15 are the two I'm thinking of at the moment)
Amps ... well that's, big. I think most would recommend pro amps mounted out of the way for this application though, and they're pretty right, DIY for something of this power level is not for the faint hearted.
A slightly more modest amp option might be Aussie amps Class AB nxV800 or nxV1200 powered by an SMPS. I have 2xnxV203 powered from a coldamp SPS80 SMPS with two bridged channels in each nxv203 'module' powering L/R subs and the third channel in each powering my front L/R speakers. My subs are 12in peerless 830500, so obviously they're not after the same amount of power as you're talking, though sometimes I wonder if they could do with a bit more than 300W, though I'm more inclined to build a 3rd sub (15in LMS-R or a dayton ultimax 15 are the two I'm thinking of at the moment)
Only if used in a cabinet with constant ambient temperature. In actual used cabinets it could easily be half or less.
From the data, I can see, the 5400 is only about 0.575% reference efficient ;-( For the same SPL like with my 18NLW9400, you need almost 6 times more power (!). Not so great, but at least they are not cheating and stating clearly that it does only 89.7dB 1W 1m into half sphere.
But I could not find an AES power rating. What is AES power rating for this transducer? 2000W?
Also, this one being 4Ohms, it is difficult to use am amp in bridged mode, as most of them "prefer" 8 Ohms in bridge. No advertisement, but I ve heard, UCD 2K can produce >3kW into 4 Ohms as a full bridge running off a (stable!) 185Vdc source.
Other options would be, for example, Hoellstern Delta 7.2 in bridge or Crown IT-9000HD in bridge (not soo cheap but good)....
But I could not find an AES power rating. What is AES power rating for this transducer? 2000W?
Also, this one being 4Ohms, it is difficult to use am amp in bridged mode, as most of them "prefer" 8 Ohms in bridge. No advertisement, but I ve heard, UCD 2K can produce >3kW into 4 Ohms as a full bridge running off a (stable!) 185Vdc source.
Other options would be, for example, Hoellstern Delta 7.2 in bridge or Crown IT-9000HD in bridge (not soo cheap but good)....
Looks interesting… seems to tick all the boxes I need, LP and HP filters, EQ, time and phase adjustment and a fairly healthy power rating.
Is this the same minidsp I hear been mentioned often on this forum?
Having never seen it or heard it, I would appreciate any feedback anyone else might have to offer before placing an order for one.
Any takers on this? Crown XTi 6002 XTi 2 Series Power Amplifier 245-411
Edit:
Just spotted PE has the 4002 @ $999. 3200w into 4 ohm bridged. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-409
Never used a Crown amp before but I have heard of them. They seem to have a reasonable reputation.
Edit:
Just spotted PE has the 4002 @ $999. 3200w into 4 ohm bridged. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-409
Never used a Crown amp before but I have heard of them. They seem to have a reasonable reputation.
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Neither have I. I am a happy Behringer user (NU3000, NU6000). I'm the guy that removes the fans ... well it works on the NU3000, not the NU6000. Love them or hate them, I don't think you can find a cheaper "PA" class-D that works fine, as far as I can hear. And at about 1/3 the price you gave.
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The price is not a concern, in fact I was looking at dearer amps, but I am looking for an amp that will provide better than average sound quality and performance.
$1000 for an amp that has inbuilt EQ is plenty cheap enough, what I want to know is if there is a clear performance winner at a reasonable price.
$1000 for an amp that has inbuilt EQ is plenty cheap enough, what I want to know is if there is a clear performance winner at a reasonable price.
"Any takers on this? Crown XTi 6002 XTi 2 Series Power Amplifier 245-411"
I do have exactly this amp in my rack. 2000USD seems a good deal since here in Europe the usual price is >2300EUR (although I paid less).
2 x 150V internal bus will give you about 96Vrms per channel into 4 Ohms (both channels driven!) or double that voltage bridged into 8 Ohms - class "I", balanced current topology. I never have tested it into 2 Ohms (or 4 Ohms bridged) - actually my application is putting ~2400W into 16 Ohms in bridge mode for high damping factor / high quality.
The DSP is best programmed with a Windows tool called "BandManager" via USB. It is quite easy to learn. After programming the different setups, the user programs can be recalled on the front display w/o any computer connected and the amp will remember the setup that was last running when power was disconnected.
I am actually just programming two setups for my BR subs: One for best low frequency extension at lower SPL levels (boost below the BR tuning frequency and lowcut at 40% below tuning f allowing for some wild stroke), the other one for max SPL with boost at the tuning frequency and lowcut just 15% below.
I do have exactly this amp in my rack. 2000USD seems a good deal since here in Europe the usual price is >2300EUR (although I paid less).
2 x 150V internal bus will give you about 96Vrms per channel into 4 Ohms (both channels driven!) or double that voltage bridged into 8 Ohms - class "I", balanced current topology. I never have tested it into 2 Ohms (or 4 Ohms bridged) - actually my application is putting ~2400W into 16 Ohms in bridge mode for high damping factor / high quality.
The DSP is best programmed with a Windows tool called "BandManager" via USB. It is quite easy to learn. After programming the different setups, the user programs can be recalled on the front display w/o any computer connected and the amp will remember the setup that was last running when power was disconnected.
I am actually just programming two setups for my BR subs: One for best low frequency extension at lower SPL levels (boost below the BR tuning frequency and lowcut at 40% below tuning f allowing for some wild stroke), the other one for max SPL with boost at the tuning frequency and lowcut just 15% below.
Well, it's just hearsay, but if you read about the XTis in PA forums, running them bridged is exactly what one doesn't want to do to a XTi, nor to any other of Crown's amps with a 'X' in the designation. For reliable bridged operation you should look for the I-Tech HD Series. They are not really cheap though, but there's a reason for that. Since the 'price is not a concern' for the OP, I thought I point that out.
Once again: This is just hearsay, I don't own a XTi, so I take no responsibility for any of the above statements.
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Well, it's just hearsay, but if you read about the XTis in PA forums, running them bridged is exactly what one doesn't want to do to a XTi, nor to any other of Crown's amps with a 'X' in the designation. For reliable bridged operation you should look for the I-Tech HD Series. They are not really cheap though, but there's a reason for that. Since the 'price is not a concern' for the OP, I thought I point that out.
Once again: This is just hearsay, I don't own a XTi, so I take no responsibility for any of the above statements.
Well, you mean bridging into 4 Ohms you should n t do on XTI6002, because the Power supply may be too weak for 6000W output power. Thats exactly why I didn t propose it for the 4 Ohm 5400 sub at first. Only after it was mentioned, I stated clearly, that I am using it bridged into high impedance 16Ohms where it does a GREAT JOB. Also, using a big 8Ohms power resistor, I was able to draw 4250W in bridge mode for some seconds until the resistor got red-hot smoking. So down to about 8 Ohms, I 'd guess, it can be used bridged. 4 Ohms is maybe a liitle too much for this amp to eat (although they advertise for it).
what about the 4002 - 3200w into 4 ohm bridged. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-409
3200w should be enough and perhaps the PSU would be big enough???
3200w should be enough and perhaps the PSU would be big enough???
Yes of course, I was referring to your statement about 2 Ohms (or 4 Ohms bridged). Sorry if that sounded like a general statement about bridged operation.
No doubt about that! The XTis are great amps for their price, I would even say 'unbeatable', it's just the 2 Ohms load which gives them headache.
"No doubt about that! The XTis are great amps for their price, I would even say 'unbeatable', it's just the 2 Ohms load which gives them headache. "
Generally, you should always use double the minimum specified load impedance or greater to have good damping factor and clean sound. If the supplier says the amp can do 2 Ohms, use it for 4 or 8 Ohms, If they claim stable operation into 1 Ohm (like some Hoellstern units), use it on 2 or 4 Ohms.
That is like having 200 horsepower in your car, but only using half of it, (e. g. keeping the rotations per minute low) to make the motor more reliable and long-life.
Generally, you should always use double the minimum specified load impedance or greater to have good damping factor and clean sound. If the supplier says the amp can do 2 Ohms, use it for 4 or 8 Ohms, If they claim stable operation into 1 Ohm (like some Hoellstern units), use it on 2 or 4 Ohms.
That is like having 200 horsepower in your car, but only using half of it, (e. g. keeping the rotations per minute low) to make the motor more reliable and long-life.
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