Amp6 Basic Assembly - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 24th March 2013, 08:58 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Default Amp6 Basic Assembly

Hello, I've recently started working on a Boominator Mini, which meant that i for reasons unknown decided to buy the Amp6b-kit instead of the assembled version, despite having no soldering or electronics experience what so ever.

Well i worked on it most of today, and it is now what i would called assembled. But i could really use some help determining if the components are in the right place, especially since i find myself with a left-over part.
I realize that I'll have to redo some, if not all, of the solders, because most of them are very poorly executed. But this is mainly a question about the component placements.

I have (what I believe is) a Schottky diode left, that i simply have nowhere to put, in the assembly instructions it is not mentioned, but in the BOM it is supposedly surface mounted at a position called D1, but my PCB has no such label anywhere, and now I'm sort of puzzled as to what I should do with the thing.

If anyone with some experience would just briefly look at these two pictures and tell me if I have somehow managed to destroy/burn/kill my amp I would greatly appreciate it. I've not tested it yet because I am afraid something would go wrong due to a mistake somewhere.

- I realize this could probably have been posted at, but for some reason I am unable to create an account on the site. Thank you in advance

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 09:10 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
PressureFM's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Denmark
Hard to say from the picture but DEAR GOD WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO THAT POOR AMPLIFIER!

Here are some pictures of the newest AMP6B I've assembled you can compare to.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 09:14 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Thanks a lot, that will be a very helpful tomorrow in better lighting. And yes half my components are crooked and bent, but hey, a connection is a connection, right?
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 09:42 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Oh, and a quick questions, which resistors do you have in R8 and R11? Didn't find them in the instructions?

Edit: Nevermind that, i found 'em
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 10:14 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
Saturnus's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
You figured out that the D1 goes on the huge unsoldered tabs next to the power input on the back yet? D1 is also known as the reverse polarity protection diode.

First thing tomorrow. Go to the local electronics store and pick up some solder wick. use it on almost every solder before you attempt to power it on.

See youtube videos on how it's used for example.

But you have too much solder. You are never going to have good connections unless you get rid of most it using the solder wick.

After that. Clean up the board. And only after that and having reinspected the board, preferably in very clear light... say daylight, should you attempt to test the board following the instructions.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th March 2013, 09:57 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
I've tried with the soldering wick the best I could, and I've tried cleaning the pcb gently with some acetone and a toothbrush (But now it looks like there is a layer of grease on the board?)

How does it look now? I couldn't really get to clean the flux off of the top of the board due to the clusterfuck of crooked components, but I think the bottom looks a lot cleaner now?

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

But I've found another problem, the jumper for the (mute or sleep I'm not sure, the one closest to the chip) switch no longer fits the two pins because, for unknown reasons, the pins are no longer the same length. Will this be an issue? I'm planning to mount proper on/off switches to it anyway.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by mrtnrsmssn; 25th March 2013 at 10:01 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th March 2013, 04:10 AM   #7
radhaz is offline radhaz  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Your iron is too hot, or you are applying heat too long a time. You can melt the solder again, and adjust the pins I think.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th March 2013, 11:00 AM   #8
blossom is offline blossom  New Zealand
diyAudio Member
blossom's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Zealand.
WD, you’ve come this far..... this is not easy the first time you do it.... don’t worry if it looks good just make sure all joints and the circuit are correct. What you’ve done to this amp is build it!
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th March 2013, 03:12 PM   #9
gychang is offline gychang  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Davis, California
I also failed to correctly solder amp6basic, so now I use ready made amps (helder's MK2) is very good.
Good sound from Davis, CA
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th March 2013, 04:47 PM   #10
Katch is offline Katch  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Are you using lead free solder by any chance? Pretty much all that places like maplin will sell these days... for home projects much better to use a 40/60 leaded solder.

Lead free needs higher temps and creates much more mess on your iron. As a result you need flux clean the tip almost every joint and re-tin.

Next use a proper flux paste and the right size solder tip - the wedge of the tip should be slightly larger that the pads you are soldering to. Flux the pad and component lead and then apply the iron tip flat across the pad touching the component lead. After a half second or so touch your solder to the pad and lead - if it doesn't wick through the hole and up the lead quickly your iron isn't hot enough or you've not made proper contact with the iron to the pad/lead.

As for sorting out your bad joints - lots of flux and if its lead free solder a hot iron. Once the joint wicks properly (the solder flows into the hole and up the component lead) the rest of the excess solder will usually lift off on the iron tip.

For cleaning flux get some isopropyl alcohol - get a shallow tray and a tooth brush - put enough alcohol on the tray that you can use the tooth brush to get it running over the board as you brush - this can take 3 or 4 goes to get the last residue off. Let the board sit somewhere warm for a few minutes afterwards. The alcohol evaporates quickly but best not to try powering anything until it has.
  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I need Amp6-Basic assembly instructions ekbaird Class D 0 16th February 2013 11:15 PM
Screaming amp6 basic?! chris661 Class D 21 30th July 2010 11:23 AM
Suitable as an Amp6-Basic PS? revans Parts 0 5th July 2009 02:19 AM
Buzz from Amp6-Basic revans Class D 15 22nd February 2009 12:09 AM
Amp6 Basic Dennis Hui Class D 10 27th September 2006 02:27 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:25 PM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2