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Building (2) 10" Portable System, parts purchased
Building (2) 10" Portable System, parts purchased
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Old 11th February 2013, 07:59 PM   #31
Saturnus is offline Saturnus  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wy2quiet View Post
Thank you I have read, and will continue to read more. I am a little distraught at why Saturnus is saying it will sound absolutely terrible though , even though hundreds of boom-boxes are designed the same way with much less sensitive speakers on much smaller baffles. I am not expecting to play techno and rave music, so bass is not a priority.
Don't think I've said it would be terrible. It will just be similar to all those boomboxes you refer to. The Boominator is just designed to much higher standards. That is all.
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Old 11th February 2013, 08:03 PM   #32
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Dear saturnus, I as not criticizing you at all, but providing some Math to clarify the discussion.
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Old 11th February 2013, 08:30 PM   #33
Saturnus is offline Saturnus  Denmark
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Originally Posted by JMFahey View Post
Dear saturnus, I as not criticizing you at all, but providing some Math to clarify the discussion.
None taken. I don't think the math is entirely accurate though as it doesn't really fit with measurements. A piezo isn't a purely capacitive load, it has a fair amount of both series and more significantly parallel parasitic resistive elements.
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Old 11th February 2013, 09:23 PM   #34
wy2quiet is offline wy2quiet
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Don't think I've said it would be terrible. It will just be similar to all those boomboxes you refer to. The Boominator is just designed to much higher standards. That is all.
I have understood now what you were talking about with your design. The idea is that identical drivers playing at equal magnitudes will curve around the box, meet somewhere in the middle almost, and create a sort of infinite "wall", which simulates a massive infinite baffle, thus almost completely correcting for baffle loss.

6db is a ton of attenuation so I am very interested to hear how my box is going to sound. If it doesn't sound well, the drivers were $20 each so I will pick up a couple more and remake the box, it is that simple.

I do appreciate your help, however you don't have to be arrogant about the fact that your design was built to "higher" standards. You spent considerably more money than I have, and are doing it to achieve different goals.

Also worth mentioning, I am going to alter the height and compress the depth as much as possible to maximize the surface area of the front baffle, to lower the frequency as much as possible.

Last edited by wy2quiet; 11th February 2013 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 13th February 2013, 02:05 PM   #35
larzman is offline larzman  United States
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Originally Posted by wy2quiet View Post
I used SketchUp. I had NEVER used any CAD software or Sketchup or anything before yesterday, and I learned in a few minutes how to figure it all out, you will be ok Trimble SketchUp it is free also.

I had to make like 4 revisions because I couldn't fit the piezo's on the front panel piece properly.

I have Lipo chargers and a few 11.1v Lipo's hanging around from my electric R/C however I prefer that SLA's are cheaper, and also have that perfect voltage to sit at. An 11.1v pack is a little low for voltage, and a 14.8v pack is a little high so...yeah. Ni-MH is an option also, but obviously more expensive. I mean, I am paying $55 CDN shipped to my door for 18Ah of juice, hard to argue with that.
I'm looking to do something similar, a battery powered, solar charged, decent sounding, INEXPENSIVE outdoor boombox. In my experience, LiPo batteries are typically packaged in a 3-cell arrangement, providing 12.6 VDC (4.2V x 3) at full charge. I've gotten them through AliExpress (China), relatively cheap, around $19 USD for 6.8AH 12V units about the size of a pack of cigarettes, of the "100's" type. LiPo's for CCTV or radio controlled toys are typically 12.6V. They are much smaller and lighter than SLA's

Those batteries allow me to power an amp with either 12V or 24V, although I haven't settled on an amp yet. The batteries are charged through a simple charge controller and 10W solar panel(s). Monocrystalline panels are used because they provide more power per surface area than polycrystalline (or multi-crystalline), and they still produce power under an overcast sky or not in an optimal position in relation to the sun. If using LiPo batteries, be careful to use a solar charge controller designed for LiPo's, as the charged voltage is different than an SLA and overcharging a LiPo will explode it.

Last edited by larzman; 13th February 2013 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 13th February 2013, 05:03 PM   #36
wy2quiet is offline wy2quiet
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I am rethinking what I can do now because Saturnus is right about the baffle step. I have looked for the halfinator plans, but I can't find any? How do you run a stereo signal to the one woofer on the front and get it to play summed mono along with the rear?
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Old 13th February 2013, 05:45 PM   #37
wy2quiet is offline wy2quiet
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To add to that...I am thinking I can run 4 NS6's (2 front, 2 back) with the piezo's and the 2 10's (1 front, 1 back).

Would that work?
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Old 20th February 2013, 06:19 PM   #38
wy2quiet is offline wy2quiet
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Ok so the box is almost done. The cuts from the Lowes near me were ATROCIOUS!! All the sides had overhang, or underhang, some up to 4mm!!! on 12mm wood. Anyways.

I sanded all the joints dead equal, and spent some time smoothing all the corners except for the top piece, which I am going to allow to be removable. A little more sanding left, then paint. The colour I chose is Tree Frog Green, with valspar's signature hd colour paint (was 2 for 1 this week )
Click the image to open in full size.

The box is narrower to allow magnet to magnet mounting, however I am not going to split the chambers after all. Without the middle enclosure, I can get enough space for 0.5-1db of extra output @ 100hz from a larger enclosure volume.

Solar panels, I originally purchased a 10w poly, but have since cancelled and purchased (4) 5w mono PET laminated panels. I am going to use 3 of them to recharge the battery, and one specifically for USB devices during sunlight hours.
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Old 20th February 2013, 08:53 PM   #39
wy2quiet is offline wy2quiet
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Ok I just spent a couple hours cutting out all the required holes, EXCEPT for the 3" port's on the sides (since I don't know exact O.D yet, I want to be precise). I got all my measurements within half a millimeter so I am pretty stoked.

Next step is to fill the screw holes and any slight variations with filler and then sand to make the surfaces smooth. Then router out the port holes, then paint.
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Old 20th February 2013, 11:54 PM   #40
larzman is offline larzman  United States
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looking pretty nice wy2quiet
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