I am seriously considering to buy an iNuke6kDSP für my Top Speakers (RCF Event 4000) instead of using the DCX2496 plus my old but still good Sony SRP-P450 Amplifier. My Crown XTI6002 for the subwoofers has its own DSP, so I don't need a dedicated DSP unit. And the Price for iNuke6kDSP is incredible. EUR438 for DSP PLUS 2 x 1200RMS into 8Ohms in one unit (!). Since I have a dedicated 230VAC-Phase for each Amp, I do not care about missing PFC or high peak / RMS line currents (need only 2 x 400RMS output for my 2 Top Speakers). Does anybody have experience with the sound of the iNuke6000? Is it "transparent" on 8 Ohms - Top-Speakers? How is the DSP compared to the DCX2496?
Yes, it will be "less noisy" at light loads of 8 Ohm as of full power into 4. The amp is loud to start with though.
As for DCX2496, I never used it. I personally would only consider buying the DCX if I needed lot of amps and would buy the non-DSP iNuke. If not I'd stick to one unit with DSP built in.
My System consists of 2 RCF Event 4000 plus 2 18Sound 18NLW9400 in BR enclosure. The 18" Subs are driven by XTI6002 (internal DSP). For the Top Speakers I d need DSP plus amp, BUT to have the DSPs ADC always working at full level, setting the volume can only be done AFTER the DSP - everything else would mean amplifying noise which I don't like. So I could use iNuke6000DSP and set the volume directly by the attenuators. But then there is 2 of them and I would like to set the volume of both top speakers by 1 pot only. (For the XTI6002 this is no issue, since it is in bridge mode and only one pot "active"). I think this problem is not so rare - is there anybody who can help me or who has had the same troubles?
I am definitely against the idea of setting the volume by a pot (mixer...) before the active X-Over / DSP in the signal chain.
I am definitely against the idea of setting the volume by a pot (mixer...) before the active X-Over / DSP in the signal chain.
It seems that pretty much all pro audio amps have separate attenuators for each channel, so in any stereo PA setup you're going to be cutting level with two knobs in the amp.....which really isn't that hard and they are notched on the behriginger just like other amps. I don't think this unique to your situation, pretty much any PA you want your line level signals pretty high without distortion, right?
http://www.rane.com/note135.html
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I haven't been able to tell if the fan gets louder with more load, mine is quite loud already when just turned on. I would not use this in-room for casual music or HT use without a quiet fan mod. If you're going to average over 100db at the listening position it's ok but still has a negative impact on the noise floor. I always run a projector and normal desktop PC tower, it is much louder than both together. For full tilt PA use it should be fine.
I have listened to the 1k, 3k and own the 6k, they all sound quite good/musical/clear/detailed and do an excellent job driving complex loads within their specs. I would not run the 6k into anything less than 4 ohms nominal, but the 3k seems to do quite well into a complex 2.5 ohm load.
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"I haven't been able to tell if the fan gets louder with more load, mine is quite loud already when just turned on. I would not use this in-room for casual music or HT use without a quiet fan mod. If you're going to average over 100db at the listening position it's ok but still has a negative impact on the noise floor. I always run a projector and normal desktop PC tower, it is much louder than both together. For full tilt PA use it should be fine."
My music listening is usually about 1m in front of the speakers between 100dB and 130dB for disco evening (would like to have more but is too expensive). Also, the fans would produce most noise in behind the rack, while I am usually in front.
My music listening is usually about 1m in front of the speakers between 100dB and 130dB for disco evening (would like to have more but is too expensive). Also, the fans would produce most noise in behind the rack, while I am usually in front.
That's REALLY bad for your hearing. About 20 minutes at 105-110 db makes my ears ring.
Ringing starts with too much trebles after about 2 -3 hours. If you can mix fat bass into your sound, then the ear's "auto-protection" will set your ears to less sensitive, so the trebles cant hurt you. In other words, big multi-KW-powered Subwoofers can increase the "feeling" of sound, while actually protecting your ears against those trebles. That is one reason why I choose XTI6002: to have quite a headroom on 16 Ohms bridged (up to 2400Watts continuous).
Interesting, but I'll stick to ear plugs and simply avoiding sound above 95 db for extended periods.
So to sum up, there are 3 troubles to iNuke:
1. High Peak / RMS current in the AC line due to missing PFC
2. Fan Noise
3. Low damping factor / high output impedance at >10kHz due to feedback taken before the filter - could negatively affect my tweeters performance, but not sure about it...
I do not care about 1., but 2. and 3. make me think....
1. High Peak / RMS current in the AC line due to missing PFC
2. Fan Noise
3. Low damping factor / high output impedance at >10kHz due to feedback taken before the filter - could negatively affect my tweeters performance, but not sure about it...
I do not care about 1., but 2. and 3. make me think....
4. I just discovered that the control knobs on the front panel of the iNuke DSP control the INPUT level to its internal DSP, not the output level - which is again - bad, since I want the DSP to get full signal all the time for maxuimum SN ratio.
Only solution seems to be DCX2496 plus DSP-less iNuke, so the volume control would be done by the amp's knobs after the DSP in the signal chain. But then, the XTI's internal DSP is superfluous, since the DXC2496 can do it all.... why is it soo difficult to build a good setup??
Only solution seems to be DCX2496 plus DSP-less iNuke, so the volume control would be done by the amp's knobs after the DSP in the signal chain. But then, the XTI's internal DSP is superfluous, since the DXC2496 can do it all.... why is it soo difficult to build a good setup??
Hell, I could even sell the XTI6002, get big €€€, and buy 1 DCX2496 plus 2 NU6k - one for Tops, one for subs, since the Nu6ks can be expected to deliver ~1000W/ch into 8Ohms. Or, even better, since the subs need greater power, use 1 Nu6k for left channel 2Way, and 1 Nu6k for right 2Way for better power distribution / power supply utilization. I would then have 4 control knobs for 4 Speakers total and the DCX2496 would always get full line level even when listening at "low" levels. Is 1 channel of Nu6k enough for 1 x 18Sound 18NLW9400 in BR enclosure? What is your opinion?
You can run the knobs maxed out and cut the level within the DSP, but I doubt that's optimal.
My opinon - it's a 8 ohm load driver rated at 1200w AES, 2400w program......going to be a bit under powered, but may be excursion limited depending on your box.....?
From what I have read, you want an amp with a real world RMS/voltage clipping rating about equivalent to double the speaker's RMS rating.
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Humm....I see the nu6000 doing 92Vrms sustained into 8 ohms, both channels driven. So if you're saying the real world RMS rating of that driver is around 500w, it sounds like a good match......?
http://forum.speakerplans.com/behri...am-kxd7200-bench-tested_topic69202_page1.html
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