Buying a (ready to go) Class D sub amp

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Next summer I plan to redo my AV setup. As part of that, I'm going to ditch my powered sub and change to in-wall or end table or in-the-attic. I'll therefore need a power amplifier(s) to drive this business.

I'm wondering what ready-to-go* amps would fit these criteria:
- Silent. NO fan. (Which kills QSC :-( )
- 200+ real watts
- Auto turn-on? Don't know if I need this.**
- Cool when quiescent.
- Efficient (hence my posting in this forum, but doesn't have to be class D, could be class G, BASH, or whatever).

I'm looking for not wildly expensive, good bang-for-the-buck models. Googling or searching eBay turns up car audio, raw kit stuff, and little 2x15W jobs.
--> I'm looking for specific brands or models I can search for.

And any other advice...

Thanks!


*Meaning NOT a kit at all. Needs to be already enclosed, ready to plug in to the wall. A plate amp probably won't work, therefore, as I can't just put that in a bookshelf stacked with other equipment (?). (Well, maybe I'm open to suggestion about that, if there is an easy solution)

**I plan to put the equipment in another room from the TV, to be controlled by remote. However, it's not necessarily a big deal to walk in there to turn to amp(s) on/off.
 
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I can't recommend any specific amp, as I'm no expert.
However, unless you specifically need a notch filter for your sub, remember that any audio amp will do - it just won't be required to amplify any frequencies above those of your woofer.

I've just bought a class D board to replace the one in my active sub and it works a treat, even though it's designed as a full range unit.
 
For cheap and powerful it may be hard to beat the Behringer iNuke series. For several months I have used a NU3000 to power two pair of Bose 901 II. One downside of the NU3000 is its noisy fan. So I removed mine and it works (although presumably not to full power spec).

http://bmmoser.myweb.usf.edu/shared/Behringer NU3000 fanless/

This might be a deal-killer for you, as you require absolute silence and perhaps the max. power output? While it gets into DIY, many people substitute a much quieter fan; I just opted for fan-less and it works for me.

If you are interested search on NU3000 at diyAudio. They also make the "DSP" series with built in parametric EQ. Look here or at hometheatershack (etc.) for specific use with subwoofer.
 
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I apologize if I present myself as a Behringer shill. However I am a happy customer and therefore can relate my experience with it.

Some other comments: after several months, I dared to try the NU3000 with the top cover on. It works fanless, apparently just as well. There is still the round hole in the rear which could be a safety hazard, but nothing compared to the whole top exposed. I have no idea whether a NU3000 would push enough power (without overheating) to drive your subwoofer. Of course the answer is "it depends." Based on my experience with my 901's, I would hazard that it would work, unless your need is for all bass, all the time :)

I just looked on eBay and a NU3000 goes for about $260, a NU6000 about $360. Add about $100 if you want the "DSP" features. I think anyone would be very hard pressed to beat those prices, for something that comes in a box with a warranty (until you disconnect the fan, at least). The NU3000 would meet your original specs except for the fan (easy mod) and the remote turn-on. I don't know what idle dissipation is...not much, the cover will get warm to the touch but you can leave it on all the time. Certainly less than class A :)

Few, if any, people have the ability to check all the options, or even most of them, available. I found something cheap that works for me. You can spend more, a lot more, on an amp (or anything else) and it's not clear -- and rarely proven -- that you are getting more for your money.

I would like to hear what your final choice for a new amp is.
 
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Behringer, eh? I didn't realize they made amps, but Google turned up Guitar Center whose pricing gives ridiculous dollars per watt. Even better than Class D plate amps at Parts Express etc., which seems amazing.

I was thinking Class D/G/etc due to wasted standby electricity, however I guess when I'm going to listen I could just turn the amp on/off like I do my receiver.

The major consideration was I figured an efficient amp would not draw as much current out of the wall, reducing the chance of blown breakers. I don't have any special wiring in the house and to do that would be a considerable expense I'm not sure I'll do.
 
Behringer, eh? I didn't realize they made amps, but Google turned up Guitar Center whose pricing gives ridiculous dollars per watt. Even better than Class D plate amps at Parts Express etc., which seems amazing.

I was thinking Class D/G/etc due to wasted standby electricity, however I guess when I'm going to listen I could just turn the amp on/off like I do my receiver.

The major consideration was I figured an efficient amp would not draw as much current out of the wall, reducing the chance of blown breakers. I don't have any special wiring in the house and to do that would be a considerable expense I'm not sure I'll do.

If you're worried about a sub amp tripping your breakers, then you probably have much more pressing issues with your house wiring! :eek:
 
I'm not sure when I jumped on Behringer iNuke amps, probably after researching class D here and determining I should not attempt to build my own. "Honest" specs for these amps are available but you have to dig. For example, the NU3000 (in bridged 4 ohm) will put out a max 3000 watts, but "only" 2200 watts RMS. How much power does one sub need??? BTW, I used to be a fan of ancient (1980s) Carver amps, they work fine, but they could trip a breaker, at least the "arc fault" breakers found in newer homes. I have not had the same problem with the NU3000.
 
I'm not sure when I jumped on Behringer iNuke amps, probably after researching class D here and determining I should not attempt to build my own. "Honest" specs for these amps are available but you have to dig. For example, the NU3000 (in bridged 4 ohm) will put out a max 3000 watts, but "only" 2200 watts RMS. How much power does one sub need??? BTW, I used to be a fan of ancient (1980s) Carver amps, they work fine, but they could trip a breaker, at least the "arc fault" breakers found in newer homes. I have not had the same problem with the NU3000.

The OP's only after 200W rms.
 
No problem. I like that saying. While I don't live in Kansas City (I am originally from Washington DC), I have family there and visit frequently. It's a nice city, but I like some wise-*** who once said (perhaps in frontier days) that Kansas City is "a town of twenty thousand souls ... inhabiting forty thousand bodies."
 
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