Well...I just finished putting a Sure Tk2050 (current version with fan constant on) into an enclosure. There is lot of space left inside. The enclosure is a standard rack mount type 19"(w) about 3.5" thick. Literally, the TK2050 only used about 25% of the space inside.
I don't want to waste the space so I'm thinking of putting "something" inside. I came up with a couple of ideas -
1) Another T-amp (I have an Sonic Impact 5066 TA2024 needed mod and another enclosure).
2) A tube pre-amp.
3) A DAC.
Idea #1 is a bit crazy putting two amps into one enclosure.
Idea #2 maybe logical and I can separate them into individual power supplies and RCAs in/out so I can link them together or to use them one at a time.
Idea #3 - I use my ipod in general as source. I'm not sure if I should change to a DAC and drive it by a PC.
(BTW, the Sure TK2050 was a mistake to buy. I bought it from PartsExpress with another item just to get the free shipping. It does have the lack of bass problem as discussed in this forum before. I think the output coils are the problem. I have modded the input caps with ERO 2.2uF MKT 1813 and the tank caps with 2200uF NOS German ROE Gold caps. I had to adjust the offset, they didn't do it at the factory. I added a Zobel at the output as well since I'm driving my Tannoy MKII and the speakers have bright treble already. The sound was harsh at the very beginning but now sounds good. Still want more bass though.)
I don't want to waste the space so I'm thinking of putting "something" inside. I came up with a couple of ideas -
1) Another T-amp (I have an Sonic Impact 5066 TA2024 needed mod and another enclosure).
2) A tube pre-amp.
3) A DAC.
Idea #1 is a bit crazy putting two amps into one enclosure.
Idea #2 maybe logical and I can separate them into individual power supplies and RCAs in/out so I can link them together or to use them one at a time.
Idea #3 - I use my ipod in general as source. I'm not sure if I should change to a DAC and drive it by a PC.
(BTW, the Sure TK2050 was a mistake to buy. I bought it from PartsExpress with another item just to get the free shipping. It does have the lack of bass problem as discussed in this forum before. I think the output coils are the problem. I have modded the input caps with ERO 2.2uF MKT 1813 and the tank caps with 2200uF NOS German ROE Gold caps. I had to adjust the offset, they didn't do it at the factory. I added a Zobel at the output as well since I'm driving my Tannoy MKII and the speakers have bright treble already. The sound was harsh at the very beginning but now sounds good. Still want more bass though.)
Off the top of my head:
1)Battery power supply & charge system for off grid power (with that and your ipod and you are mains free!!)
2)Better heat sink so you can bin the fan (pc passive cooler type)
3)B1 Preamp with great volume control
4)DAC & power supply (batteries also good)
5)Phono stage
6)Your stash
1)Battery power supply & charge system for off grid power (with that and your ipod and you are mains free!!)
2)Better heat sink so you can bin the fan (pc passive cooler type)
3)B1 Preamp with great volume control
4)DAC & power supply (batteries also good)
5)Phono stage
6)Your stash
You could throw in one of those velman preamp boards from PE and have volume and tone controls. They have a gain of 1 but you can change a couple resistors to increase it and change out the opamps to something better than the TL072's. Or build something else from a reputable design that has tone controls.
TJ
TJ
While that may be true, the OP was dissatisfied with the lack of bass and a preamp was on his list of things he was thinking about. The enclosure he already has and mounted everything into has more leftover space than he thought. I know I wouldn't listen to a CD without some sort of sound shaping. Blech
(JMO)TJ
Thanks guys for the ideas. I don't think I will go off-grid/solar setup. I'm renting a house so installing panels outside is out of the questions. I have powered my TA2024 by 12v car battery and it does sound good. But I remember swapping out 12v SLAs from computer UPS are just expensive. Somehow the SLA won't last very long. Have also built something similar to B1 with MPF102 for my Musical Fidelity A1s just to eliminate the bad sounding OP-AMPs. In the same token, I'm trying to avoid tone control (usually with OP-AMPs). The case was a steal to get for $20 so I don't think I will buy another case soon. Although I think the TK2050 is a little weak in bass, it is not too bad and I think I will change out the output coils (thinking about DIY air-core). I already removed the fan over the heat sink. My wife doesn't like me listen in high volume so the fan is not real necessary. I measured the power drawn with one of those Kill-A-Watt thing and the amp draws only about 5W with the volume higher that what I usually needed. I think my speakers are very efficient in this case. Well...I guess I'm going off-topic myself.....
I'm down to either a tube preamp or put the TA2024 into the same box. Since I have multiple pairs of speakers in the same locations, I can have the TA2024 driving one pair while the TK2050 driving another (Bi-amp ??) Then I'm killing myself for not buying the 4x100W version of TK2050 board to start with. But I do think the TA2024 has more magic than the TK2050 (off-topic again).
More ideas ?
I'm down to either a tube preamp or put the TA2024 into the same box. Since I have multiple pairs of speakers in the same locations, I can have the TA2024 driving one pair while the TK2050 driving another (Bi-amp ??) Then I'm killing myself for not buying the 4x100W version of TK2050 board to start with. But I do think the TA2024 has more magic than the TK2050 (off-topic again).
More ideas ?
playing mixed sets of speakers and amps simultaneously is for annoying neighbours not listening to
You could biamp you speakers using the 2024 for the tweets and the 2050 for the bass. Get a minidsp and you could sort the bass issue as well.
a 2024 should not kill a 12v sla for ages - hours and hours of playtime and the battery should not need to be replaced for a good few years.
You could biamp you speakers using the 2024 for the tweets and the 2050 for the bass. Get a minidsp and you could sort the bass issue as well.
a 2024 should not kill a 12v sla for ages - hours and hours of playtime and the battery should not need to be replaced for a good few years.
No, no, no. I'm not going to use both amps at the same time. I was thinking "Bi-Amp" as meaning two separated amps in same enclosure (my senior moment). Not that the regular definition that people use here (with active crossover, driving tweeter and woofer separately etc).
I don't think I will go bi-amp route because I don't have an active crossover. My goal is to put as little active components in the signal path as possible. I have abandoned using tone control or any equalizer for ages. It is true though the TA-2024 draws very little current when I was connecting it to car battery........
I don't think I will go bi-amp route because I don't have an active crossover. My goal is to put as little active components in the signal path as possible. I have abandoned using tone control or any equalizer for ages. It is true though the TA-2024 draws very little current when I was connecting it to car battery........
One Can bi amp by running a separate amp to a split passive crossover, where the one amp feeds one Driver and another feeds the HF section. A bit tricky to get 'right' and not as good as a Decent active crossover.. still it's an improvement and fun to experiment with.
Got enough supply capacitance in your 2050 circuit setup ? Could be your bass 'problem'.
Sure spends much of their costs on their case, not the innards IMO.
Got enough supply capacitance in your 2050 circuit setup ? Could be your bass 'problem'.
Sure spends much of their costs on their case, not the innards IMO.
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Off the top of my head:
1)Battery power supply & charge system for off grid power (with that and your ipod and you are mains free!!)
2)Better heat sink so you can bin the fan (pc passive cooler type)
3)B1 Preamp with great volume control
4)DAC & power supply (batteries also good)
5)Phono stage
6)Your stash
I'll vouch for #4:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/222658-modifying-russian-tda1543-dac-off-ebay.html
It will run straight off a 6v SLA no probs, or at 7v with a LM200C volt regulator, modification is needed for the power supply of the CS8412 before you can go beyond 7v though. (the addition of a 7805)
I suggest replacement of the supplied output coupling capacitors though with PIO types.
Consumption is exceptionally low, 5 hours could pass and a bnew 7AH battery could drop from 6.50v to 6.42v
People in the 1950's would be stunned at this.
Another thing that gives similar battery life would be an ipad 3, which makes a good source and all-round browser/email/irc client. for 10 hours per charge.!
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Thanks for more ideas.
**Got enough supply capacitance in your 2050 circuit setup ? Could be your bass 'problem'.**
-- I have tried adding a 15000uF cap at the power rail, no difference.
**DAC - russian chip mods**
-- Thought about DAC too. Not too sure but will consider this idea
**LED meter
-- I also thought about this after I posted init message. I have one that is relatively big size with 16 LEDs per channel. I ditched this idea because I have to drill 32 perfectly aligned holes for the LEDs. Chances of messing it up is very high with my poor crafting skill.
Am I opening up a can of worms ???
**Got enough supply capacitance in your 2050 circuit setup ? Could be your bass 'problem'.**
-- I have tried adding a 15000uF cap at the power rail, no difference.
**DAC - russian chip mods**
-- Thought about DAC too. Not too sure but will consider this idea
**LED meter
-- I also thought about this after I posted init message. I have one that is relatively big size with 16 LEDs per channel. I ditched this idea because I have to drill 32 perfectly aligned holes for the LEDs. Chances of messing it up is very high with my poor crafting skill.
Am I opening up a can of worms ???
I have never been a fan of items inside a speaker box.
The vibration and sound waves changing the air pressure rapidly wont do any electronics any good.
Of course you can buy active speakers but are they as reliable ?
I have seen space electronics tested on vibration beds and seen things fly apart.
I always have my amplifiers in separate boxes to the speakers.
The vibration and sound waves changing the air pressure rapidly wont do any electronics any good.
Of course you can buy active speakers but are they as reliable ?
I have seen space electronics tested on vibration beds and seen things fly apart.
I always have my amplifiers in separate boxes to the speakers.
what speaker box?
But I am not using a speaker box for electronics. I just use a 19" rack mount type enclosure for the amplifier.
But I am not using a speaker box for electronics. I just use a 19" rack mount type enclosure for the amplifier.
I put in the Sonic Impact TA2024
Well I decided to add the original SI TA2024 into the space as two separate amps. I have uploaded the pics. After two amps inside the enclosure, I still have lots of space left !
I have done more changes to the Sure TK2050 and the bass is a lot better. The amp has more warmth too:
1) Output coils changed from factory tiny ones to 10uH toroids.
2) Shorted the power input diodes.
3) Added two 2.2uF MKT1813 bypass caps to power tank caps (installed underside the board).
Already done:-
1) 2.2uF MKT1813 input caps
2) Tank caps changed to ROE 2000uF NOE
3) External 15000uF power tank cap.
The left side is the Sonic Impact TA2024. I have not done much on this board except the input caps and tank caps with a 15000uF external cap. The outputs of this amp are connected to a car "speaker to line level convertor" to drive the Dayton sub. It works perfectly to link the TA2024 to the RCA inputs of the sub and provide isolation of the two (-) terminals of the amp which is required (as you can see the blue cable connecting between the level converter and the sub).
Other items in the pics are the Gold ROE tank caps which is the same kind I used in my JLH Class A amps in the power section which has improved sound. There is a Zobel network at the speaker teminals. This was done incorrectly as the Zobel network in Tripath datasheet has it placed before output coils. But I placed it after output coils. The toroids are 2010-V-RC 10uH. The toroid material is type 52, high perm. But it sounds much better and more refined compare to the tiny factory coils.
The two SMPS are 12V 5A for the SI and a 19V 2.2A for the TK2050. I know the one for the TK2050 is underrated. It will eventually be changed to a 27V 5A or 6A SMPS. But even now after the above mods, the bass is good and it does sound nice though.
The pic of the SI TA2024 is not completely tidy and neat. I want to try better coils on the SI later. It is now being connected to the output of the TV for movie with the sub connected.
-AC
Well I decided to add the original SI TA2024 into the space as two separate amps. I have uploaded the pics. After two amps inside the enclosure, I still have lots of space left !
I have done more changes to the Sure TK2050 and the bass is a lot better. The amp has more warmth too:
1) Output coils changed from factory tiny ones to 10uH toroids.
2) Shorted the power input diodes.
3) Added two 2.2uF MKT1813 bypass caps to power tank caps (installed underside the board).
Already done:-
1) 2.2uF MKT1813 input caps
2) Tank caps changed to ROE 2000uF NOE
3) External 15000uF power tank cap.
The left side is the Sonic Impact TA2024. I have not done much on this board except the input caps and tank caps with a 15000uF external cap. The outputs of this amp are connected to a car "speaker to line level convertor" to drive the Dayton sub. It works perfectly to link the TA2024 to the RCA inputs of the sub and provide isolation of the two (-) terminals of the amp which is required (as you can see the blue cable connecting between the level converter and the sub).
Other items in the pics are the Gold ROE tank caps which is the same kind I used in my JLH Class A amps in the power section which has improved sound. There is a Zobel network at the speaker teminals. This was done incorrectly as the Zobel network in Tripath datasheet has it placed before output coils. But I placed it after output coils. The toroids are 2010-V-RC 10uH. The toroid material is type 52, high perm. But it sounds much better and more refined compare to the tiny factory coils.
The two SMPS are 12V 5A for the SI and a 19V 2.2A for the TK2050. I know the one for the TK2050 is underrated. It will eventually be changed to a 27V 5A or 6A SMPS. But even now after the above mods, the bass is good and it does sound nice though.
The pic of the SI TA2024 is not completely tidy and neat. I want to try better coils on the SI later. It is now being connected to the output of the TV for movie with the sub connected.
-AC
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