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Older thread but I had been chatting with ChocoHolic about building this amp for my subwoofers. Will be using a pair of 3K PS from Hypex.
Wanted to ask to whomever has built this build where did you get your PCB from?
I have heard some good things about Seeed Studio and Imal(Itead Studio) but wanted to know from others.
Wanted to ask to whomever has built this build where did you get your PCB from?
I have heard some good things about Seeed Studio and Imal(Itead Studio) but wanted to know from others.
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Have only good experience with iTeadStudio (haven't tried Seeed) ... all perfect so far and dirt cheap ... what more can one want? 
This is just a general comment to pbc manufactory ... have not tried to build this nice amp
BR Baldin
PS. Yes we miss Eva ... hope she is doing good
This is just a general comment to pbc manufactory ... have not tried to build this nice amp
BR Baldin
PS. Yes we miss Eva ... hope she is doing good
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...for the LiteAmp I also changed to Itead in order to keep the Key Component Sets at a cost level which hopefully will be OK for most DIYers.
Quality of PCBs is fine.
My only concern is the hidden price behind.
This does not only apply to PCBs & electronics, but also clothes, food, transportation...
Good quality for 'dirt cheap' usually comes at the price that many working people are not paid fair, have to work under unhealthy circumstances and environmental topics are not all in focus.
I am not fully consequent, but often my choice is influenced by these considerations and I am definitely not a friend of the popular mind setting that everything must be fast&cheap.
Quality of PCBs is fine.
My only concern is the hidden price behind.
This does not only apply to PCBs & electronics, but also clothes, food, transportation...
Good quality for 'dirt cheap' usually comes at the price that many working people are not paid fair, have to work under unhealthy circumstances and environmental topics are not all in focus.
I am not fully consequent, but often my choice is influenced by these considerations and I am definitely not a friend of the popular mind setting that everything must be fast&cheap.
I hear ya ChocoHolic. I am all for people earning a REAL wage for their work. Being a US citizen now residing in Australia it is amazing how little we(USA) pay are workers. PM box cleared also.
Secondly where is everyone getting their BOM parts from?
I know Mouser is one of the biggest online companies but didnt know about any others.
Secondly where is everyone getting their BOM parts from?
I know Mouser is one of the biggest online companies but didnt know about any others.
Good and fair point, but using an over priced european or american company will not help these people. E.g. double up on the price at iTead to make sure every thing is done in a, for the employees, healthy and fair manner .... I'm all for it ....
Somewhat true.
In any case it is hard to control if a reasonable portion of the paid money will reach the workers.
On one hand Itead appears very cost attractive for DIY, but of course compared to typical industrial mass production it is still expensive.
From this view it is likely that Itead is not worse than other PCB manufacturers.
It is just our more and more agressive mind setting that everything must be fast and cheap which makes me sick.
Same like the popular mind setting that the ones who allow to get tricked
deserve to be tricked.
Over the last twenty years mankind appears to develop backwards, except technology.
At least it is my perception for Central Europe that after world war II most people somehow understood that life is better, when the normal attitude includes a good portion of fairness. This was the basis for good education and very productive cooperations. Now after two generations this understanding is getting lost more and more.
Well Choco my build wont be very fast at all. So thats good for something right?
I still have to contact Itead and some local PCB companies to see how much it will cost me for the four boards. Does anyone know if they offer a stencil when purchasing boards?
Only curious as I will learn more when I send off my email. Just wanting to know some info before sending the email off.
I still have to contact Itead and some local PCB companies to see how much it will cost me for the four boards. Does anyone know if they offer a stencil when purchasing boards?
Only curious as I will learn more when I send off my email. Just wanting to know some info before sending the email off.
Thanks Choco.
I am going to make a few PCBs of this 2KW Class-d Amplifier.
Any one interested?
Cost of PCBs as below. Any interested please let me know.
PCB Dimensions 190mm x 94mm
2oz Cooper
Green Masking
White Silk
Material FR-4
Production Time 7 Days + 3 to 5 Days for delivery.
PCB cost - 14US$, excluding the Shipping cost, Shipping cost by DHL vary between 25US$ to 35US$ depends on destination.
Any interested please PM me or post here.
Thanks
I am going to make a few PCBs of this 2KW Class-d Amplifier.
Any one interested?
Cost of PCBs as below. Any interested please let me know.
PCB Dimensions 190mm x 94mm
2oz Cooper
Green Masking
White Silk
Material FR-4
Production Time 7 Days + 3 to 5 Days for delivery.
PCB cost - 14US$, excluding the Shipping cost, Shipping cost by DHL vary between 25US$ to 35US$ depends on destination.
Any interested please PM me or post here.
Thanks
merry CHRISTmass to you all Which PCB design are you doing?
I plan on building this amp next year and would need four boards but based off of V1.3. I think most are doing V1.5.
Nothing sent to factory yet, I am waiting to collect the order of at least 10 PCBs to reach low price 14US$.
I will make the latest version as its the up to date one.
I didn't read the whole thread to discover the differences between the versions, but Choco will help us with choosing the right version of PCBs to manufacture, after his permission.
But I have no problem to make either one of them.
Both versions V1.3 and V1.5 are valid versions.
V1.3 is oriented for high quality PA use and
provides highest current capabilty. Shut down is set slightly above 50Apk.
For further reduction of losses you may also increase the dead time setting
by the expense of increased, but still very low, distortions.
V1.5 is oriented for high end HiFi use.
Switching frequency is higher, also slightly more losses.
Overcurrent protection typically acts between 40...45Apk.
Design is optimized for high speed with blameless step response
and low THD and IMD.
Both versions use the same PCB, however V1.5 needs additional
components on the board which have to be placed in "free style".
Please refer to the attached pictures and also to the BOMs in the builder packs.
Note: The pictures do not show the series connection of C_Add301 and R_Add301. You can place them aside the board from output to GND.
50W+ heat sink only needed for large 10kHz rectangle.
For music program 5W is sufficient. Wiring between this RC and the board shall be done with a twisted pair of wires, recommended length less than 15cm.
In any case please be aware that the design needs a lot of skilled manual
assembly, which is possible for an experienced DIYer, but IMHO not making sense for mass production.
Please also be aware that this amp is dangerous if not implemented and used
properly. It operates from high rails, +/-82V. Also after assembly, especially when operated in bridged mode, it can deliver high output voltages. During clipping the available bridged output voltage comes close to the level of a normal domestic AC power outlet in US.
Make sure to use correctly isolated speaker wirings and connectors.
I.e. with Speakon connectors from Neutrik.
V1.3 is oriented for high quality PA use and
provides highest current capabilty. Shut down is set slightly above 50Apk.
For further reduction of losses you may also increase the dead time setting
by the expense of increased, but still very low, distortions.
V1.5 is oriented for high end HiFi use.
Switching frequency is higher, also slightly more losses.
Overcurrent protection typically acts between 40...45Apk.
Design is optimized for high speed with blameless step response
and low THD and IMD.
Both versions use the same PCB, however V1.5 needs additional
components on the board which have to be placed in "free style".
Please refer to the attached pictures and also to the BOMs in the builder packs.
Note: The pictures do not show the series connection of C_Add301 and R_Add301. You can place them aside the board from output to GND.
50W+ heat sink only needed for large 10kHz rectangle.
For music program 5W is sufficient. Wiring between this RC and the board shall be done with a twisted pair of wires, recommended length less than 15cm.
In any case please be aware that the design needs a lot of skilled manual
assembly, which is possible for an experienced DIYer, but IMHO not making sense for mass production.
Please also be aware that this amp is dangerous if not implemented and used
properly. It operates from high rails, +/-82V. Also after assembly, especially when operated in bridged mode, it can deliver high output voltages. During clipping the available bridged output voltage comes close to the level of a normal domestic AC power outlet in US.
Make sure to use correctly isolated speaker wirings and connectors.
I.e. with Speakon connectors from Neutrik.
Attachments
Just uploaded the sim file, i hope you have LTC
Hello Workhorse,
I am looking at your schematics, and I don't understand why you put an LED at the bases of Q4, Q5.
Normally an LED acts like a voltage stabilizer therefore it will try to keep the bases of Q4, Q5 at a constant voltage. Also the
emitters of Q4, Q5 will be at around 0.5-0.8V higher.
However the emitters of Q4, Q5, being connected at the collectors of Q6, Q7, will have a voltage that can vary wildly.
It seems to me that you are overconstraining the voltage at the collectors of Q6, Q7.
Can you explain why you designed it this way ?
Okay, I'll admit I haven't read this entire 3-year-old thread. Just discovered it today.
Could the design, author's explanation, and resultant specs for this be put in their own sticky thread so that anyone can find them easily? Maintain the sticky with whatever improvements or tweaks there might be, but try to keep it relatively uncluttered. Link to this thread for discussion.
I'm slightly interested in building a portable, battery-powered, outdoor concert set, so if the specs are good and the design of this and other parts aren't too tricky, I might end up using "a few" of these.
Could the design, author's explanation, and resultant specs for this be put in their own sticky thread so that anyone can find them easily? Maintain the sticky with whatever improvements or tweaks there might be, but try to keep it relatively uncluttered. Link to this thread for discussion.
I'm slightly interested in building a portable, battery-powered, outdoor concert set, so if the specs are good and the design of this and other parts aren't too tricky, I might end up using "a few" of these.