LP-2020A+ mod thread

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
On another note; two pieces of advice for all:

1) I was wrong to assume I should replace the 6 output caps with all .22uF. It sounded terrible. Major distortion even at low volume. Although I had also replaced the output inductors, but I doubt they were the culprit.

2) Always make sure you do a controlled discharge of the main power capacitor before you start removing and adding components. I bridged the cap contact point to something with my soldering iron yesterday, saw a nice spark while the volume LED glowed briefly and now -- dead amp.

Yes. I fry le Lepai. Glad it was only $20.
 
Tp4tissue,

Current = amperage

Buy a P/S with higher amperage rating. 5 amps aught to do it.

Hi Cogitech:

I currently do have the 12v, 5amp supply..

Do these tripath chips work anything like CPUs where more voltage makes them run "more stable"..

I'm not trying to overclock, :D , but I'm just wondering if the circuit would be "lean" with lower than the recommended 13.5v from the spec-sheet :)
 
On another note; two pieces of advice for all:

1) I was wrong to assume I should replace the 6 output caps with all .22uF. It sounded terrible. Major distortion even at low volume. Although I had also replaced the output inductors, but I doubt they were the culprit.

2) Always make sure you do a controlled discharge of the main power capacitor before you start removing and adding components. I bridged the cap contact point to something with my soldering iron yesterday, saw a nice spark while the volume LED glowed briefly and now -- dead amp.

Yes. I fry le Lepai. Glad it was only $20.

:eek: Ah.. scary.. thanks for that tip..

Um.. I was under the impression that these small capacitors "don't " need to be discharged...before desoldering.

Do I just take my car-light bulbs and bridge the gap while it's still on the Board to discharge it?


As for the capacitors... I suppose I could put most of the old stuff back, and then swap in things one "set" at a time.. to make sure it's working right? :confused:
 
Last edited:
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Hi Cogitech:

I currently do have the 12v, 5amp supply..

Do these tripath chips work anything like CPUs where more voltage makes them run "more stable"..

I'm not trying to overclock, :D , but I'm just wondering if the circuit would be "lean" with lower than the recommended 13.5v from the spec-sheet :)

I have seen people report good results with 13.5v supplies.
 
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
:eek: Ah.. scary.. thanks for that tip..

Um.. I was under the impression that these small capacitors "don't " need to be discharged...before desoldering.

Do I just take my car-light bulbs and bridge the gap while it's still on the Board to discharge it?


As for the capacitors... I suppose I could put most of the old stuff back, and then swap in things one "set" at a time.. to make sure it's working right? :confused:

Discharge them as you see fit. I use a resistor, when I remember to do it.

I do believe it makes sense to replace 1 thing (or a pair) at a time to see what happens. I am usually too impatient to do so, and I end up not knowing WTF is going on.
 
1) I was wrong to assume I should replace the 6 output caps with all .22uF. It sounded terrible. Major distortion even at low volume. Although I had also replaced the output inductors, but I doubt they were the culprit.

2) Always make sure you do a controlled discharge of the main power capacitor before you start removing and adding components. I bridged the cap contact point to something with my soldering iron yesterday, saw a nice spark while the volume LED glowed briefly and now -- dead amp.

What exact inductors did you use? Using 0.22uF caps is very unlikely to cause that much distortion.

I always unplug, then turn the power switch on and leave it on. Same with pretty much all other equipment. You can tell by the led around the volume knob when it's discharged.
 
What exact inductors did you use? Using 0.22uF caps is very unlikely to cause that much distortion.

I always unplug, then turn the power switch on and leave it on. Same with pretty much all other equipment. You can tell by the led around the volume knob when it's discharged.

^ this works.. :shhh:

also, yea the .22uf caps, it's in the spec sheet..

I swapped 2x Panasonic .47uf film back into the "left" channel.. in the C_o capacitor positions

Leaving the right channel all .22uf wima mkp10


Auditioning them separately.. via the speaker balance slider on my pc

I feel like the .22uf right has more detail.

Now I'm wondering if .33uf would be better because my ghetto cheap speakers are only 6ohm
 
Last edited:
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
One can DIY a quite good inductor using the OEM Lepai inductors as donors. Unwind them then rewind with 16 turns (oem wind .. count the turns of the oem wire as you unwind them..to be sure) of any magnet wire thicker than the OEM hair thin magnet wire. And yer good to go.
 
Is that board already put together for you? or you gotta glue?


Anyway.. I got a second lepai, because I wanted to compare with and without op-amps... before I rip them out completely..

I took the op amp out of the second board and went direct...

It sounded fine when playing from my sound card... But when I put in a shitty source like my iphone, the first lepai "with" the opamp -intact- is clearly superior...

Lepai #2 (opamps removed) sounded very uneven when playing from my phone...

I can't rule out that the improvement might be all the extra wimas and nichicons in lepai #1

BUT seemingly-likely,, you need the opamps if your source is something crappy like an i-phone..


But, idk, it could just be my iphone, i haerd iphone 5 audio isn't as good as samsung gs, so maybe people with samsung phones would be fine without the opamps.

^^ I bring this up because this is somewhat of a "mobile" amp...


ALthough, LOL mine doesn't fit in the case at all with all the caps.. I didn't want to significantly lengthen the path, so i just put the caps in place.. :eek:

I'm probably still going to take my opamps out... but I thought I'd provide this comparison for those on the fence.
 
Last edited:
The red board came with a toroid for the power input inductor.

The first mod I did was to replace C20 & C21 with film caps. Because I didn't mind low end roll off at a higher frequency, I used a 100nF to start with, then made it even smaller to roll off more low end. I also replaced the volume op-amp with a OPA2132. Much improved sound just from those two changes.

Which is the role of C20 and C21? Are they coupling caps?
Is there a complete schematic to understand a little better?
TX
 
C20 and C21 are the DC blocking capacitors between the single supply op-amps and the TA2020 chip itself. You may not need them if you completely bypass the op-amps.

Full schematic? I'm not aware of one.

well... the 2.2uf caps are in "what little" schematic we "do" have... :D

But yea, if you bypass and have a really good source.. I think just direct shoot would be "fine.." although you'd still at least need those 0.01uf in the loop for noise control going over "distance"
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.