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Old 19th December 2012, 04:53 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bare View Post
Couple of points; 'genuine' 2.2 uf Wimas are Huge things
Wima 2.2uF polypropylene (MKP) are huge things. 2.2uF polyester (MKS) can be had in 5mm pin spacing.
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Old 21st December 2012, 04:36 PM   #32
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I have one last question which inductor is better?

ICE Components 1D10A-100M

vs

Bourns THT radial RF 10uH
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Old 2nd January 2013, 09:17 PM   #33
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hi all, its cool to see others playing around with this amp.

I chose it for a project simply because it was the smallest, cheapest one I could find. Now I am trying to re-use it for a small stereo. I am trying to drive two B3N full range woofers and needed to slim it down to better fit in the enclosure. I would like to ditch the tone control garbage but am not sure where to start. I have had some basic EE courses but am still a relative newb.

I also dont care to have the volume control, I figured I would set the volume at about 80% and then just control the volume of the source. I have removed the potentiometers, but nothing else. In a "less intelligent move" I tried to replace the volume POT with a resistor or two. In a careless mistake, I shorted a few of those contacts. I cannot test my circuit until I solder the volume POT back on, but is is possible that I did any damage by shorting some of the leads to the POT?

Since I have not found a more compact alternative to this amp, I am looking into replacing the components as others have mentioned. Can anyone recommend a supplier for these parts?

Thanks!
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Old 3rd January 2013, 04:27 AM   #34
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Yes, you could have done some damage, but it's hard to say what.

Digikey and Mouser are the usual go-to places for components.
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Old 3rd January 2013, 08:42 AM   #35
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I found that it's impossible to find a good (Vishay, Bourns, Alps) 20K Dual Log Potentiometer for this amp
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Old 3rd January 2013, 12:17 PM   #36
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Well I hooked up a couple of resistors to replace the volume POT and luckily things appear to still be in working order.

I will investigate Mouser and Digikey for those capacitors.
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Old 3rd January 2013, 01:04 PM   #37
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I found a pair of 0.1uf capacitors that say 104k B,250 on them...would it be worth replacing the stock C20 and C21 caps with them?

still a newb...
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Old 5th January 2013, 11:42 PM   #38
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If you replace C20 and C21 with smaller values you'll get less bass. If I remember correctly, 0.1uF will cut bass below about 160hz.
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Old 9th January 2013, 03:46 PM   #39
lausse is offline lausse  Sweden
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If you would like to get in a balance fade in there somehow - anyone got ideas?
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Old 9th January 2013, 05:29 PM   #40
Bare is offline Bare  Canada
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Large Wimas are pricey for result delivered imo.
Smaller ones are mediocre things, at best. Replace one of those with even the cheapest Film 'n foil and be amazed.
Take the oem Teeny inductors Off the board , unwind the hair thin windings, then rewind with the same number of turns (16) of heavier gauge Magnet wire. Instant upgraded Inductor coils, for a half hour's work and 1$ of wire.
Plus they Fit ..easily.. back on the pcb.

Go to: Amplifier:Lepai T Amp - diyAudio
and scroll down to the photo of the bypassed tone controls then do that exact mod.
Although the Large Blue Alps pot made absolutely No sound difference when I tried it. Utter waste of time is my opinion, after actually trying it.
Although IF seriously worried about Pots one would be fitting a Goldpoint stepped attenuator...( as if on a 15$ amp gizmo.. rather than a Fake Blue Alps.
But Hey.. If you must.
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