For other IRS2092-based amp modules see
Connexelectronic
I'm going to get these; the ebay ones are so cheap that I fear the parts quality is not good.
Also I believe zoetsang's modules have to have the heat conductive grease added, not sure about along's.
I have Abletec modules, a 300W mono ALC-0300 and a 2x90W ALC-0180. They each have an integrated SMPS and are very compact. They will take +/-10V balanced inputs. They are reasonably priced, too. I ordered them from Profusion (UK). I made 3-way plate amps with them, and drive them with the Minidsp 2x8.
Honestly, I don't have much else to compare them to but the specs look good and I think they sound great. I suspect being able to keep the signal hot and balanced is a big part of this. Also, I have an active system so they are not running full-range.
There is very little discussion anywhere on the net about these amps, but there is a short thread about them here at diyaudio.com. If anyone else has an opinion about them I'd be glad to hear it.
- Tom
Honestly, I don't have much else to compare them to but the specs look good and I think they sound great. I suspect being able to keep the signal hot and balanced is a big part of this. Also, I have an active system so they are not running full-range.
There is very little discussion anywhere on the net about these amps, but there is a short thread about them here at diyaudio.com. If anyone else has an opinion about them I'd be glad to hear it.
- Tom
So, Why are you asking about Amps on a DIY site if you dont want to DIY????
Class D Audio will sell you all the pieces you need, or you can buy a prebuilt amp..
Class D Audio will sell you all the pieces you need, or you can buy a prebuilt amp..
Because from the posts I have read , people on here are very knowledgeable
Check out the "Cheap and cheerful" forum on AudioCircle. The ClassD amps are well regarded there also.
For the specifications that you wrote at the beginning, seems perfect the new F-3 for you.Don't you guys know any of those top notch amps with their power supplies, proper chassis and heat sink etc ?? I don't wanna complicate my life with amp assembly ... which I know nothing of ..except specs lol
but I doubt that you're looking for a real amp, with these performances.
i joke eh!
Regards
I am building a set of open baffle speakers with the goal of the most natural sound possible. Since sound reproduction is inherently unnatural, my goal is to fool my ears into thinking there are instruments in front of me.
My wife is a folk musician so I frequently hear unamplified acoustic instruments, and they are my benchmark.
The number one problem I have encountered is to overcome the sensitivities of my own ears. I am especially sensitive to harshness in high frequencies. Thus, single driver speaker, which have stunning midranges, fail because of inter-modulation distortion which introduces nonlinear high frequencies, harshness, in the highs.
To get around this, I have chosen a mid/high driverBG NEO8, that can reach down to 650hz, which is low enough to fool my ear in the midrange, but high enough to avoid most inter-modulation distortion.
Amplification has been a real problem for me. I have tried solid state, tube, and Class D. The Class D came the closest for me but still had some harshness in the highs.
I bought a Sure TK2050 4X to experiment with, to give me a side to experiment with and a side to leave unaltered. I removed the input caps and output filter. I replaced the input cap with a variety of caps deciding on polystyrene (I am using 1.0uF, low, but I am using it with the high/mid driver). The output filter makes the most difference. I am currently using 10nF air core inductors that I made myself (I am going to put the amp in a steel case to block stray EMF). And, 1.0uF polystyrene caps from Russia. I put a 1nF polystyrene cap across the output to provide the necessary load for when speakers are not connected.
The midrange through about 4K Hz is stunningly natural. Right now the highs from 4K to about 10K Hz (above that the ear is very insensitive so small differences don't make much differences) are slightly too bright compared to reality and to the unaltered amp. When freq content hits this range, it reminds me that I am listening to reproduced music. However, the highs are cleaner than any amp I have ever heard regardless of price, I just need to keep experimenting with values.
For the low frequencies, I have found Class D to give a tight natural sound. I like SMPS power supplies because they seem to give punch when it is called for, as in tight headed bass drums. I've found that here, even cheap Class D amps are quite satisfactory.
James
My wife is a folk musician so I frequently hear unamplified acoustic instruments, and they are my benchmark.
The number one problem I have encountered is to overcome the sensitivities of my own ears. I am especially sensitive to harshness in high frequencies. Thus, single driver speaker, which have stunning midranges, fail because of inter-modulation distortion which introduces nonlinear high frequencies, harshness, in the highs.
To get around this, I have chosen a mid/high driverBG NEO8, that can reach down to 650hz, which is low enough to fool my ear in the midrange, but high enough to avoid most inter-modulation distortion.
Amplification has been a real problem for me. I have tried solid state, tube, and Class D. The Class D came the closest for me but still had some harshness in the highs.
I bought a Sure TK2050 4X to experiment with, to give me a side to experiment with and a side to leave unaltered. I removed the input caps and output filter. I replaced the input cap with a variety of caps deciding on polystyrene (I am using 1.0uF, low, but I am using it with the high/mid driver). The output filter makes the most difference. I am currently using 10nF air core inductors that I made myself (I am going to put the amp in a steel case to block stray EMF). And, 1.0uF polystyrene caps from Russia. I put a 1nF polystyrene cap across the output to provide the necessary load for when speakers are not connected.
The midrange through about 4K Hz is stunningly natural. Right now the highs from 4K to about 10K Hz (above that the ear is very insensitive so small differences don't make much differences) are slightly too bright compared to reality and to the unaltered amp. When freq content hits this range, it reminds me that I am listening to reproduced music. However, the highs are cleaner than any amp I have ever heard regardless of price, I just need to keep experimenting with values.
For the low frequencies, I have found Class D to give a tight natural sound. I like SMPS power supplies because they seem to give punch when it is called for, as in tight headed bass drums. I've found that here, even cheap Class D amps are quite satisfactory.
James
How about a shelving filter to reduce that range?
Are you using EQ?
And is your room treated?
You may be swatting at gnats while ignoring elephants in the room.
Hi mate i'm not looking for speakers that fool me into thinking that the sound source is realistic ... I am looking for the TRUTH.
I am a mixing engineer and I want to hear what my naked source material sound like , I don't want my amp to compress the signal or the speakers to fool me.
I just wanna truth
Any advice on some affordable class-D amp that might do the trick ?
Amps that are fully assembled (can't be bothered with DIY) I already DIY my speakers How efficient are your speakers, and how loud do you want to listen to them ? That will help in determining how much power you need.. Having the required headroom in the amplifier is really the only way to prevent the output from being compressed (clipped)..
Also, do you intend to run the amp directly with your DAC?
How are you planning on adjusting the volume? Some of the Class D amps need a buffer between a directly connected volume pot and the amp input, or the high end frequency response tilts downwards as the pot resistance changes..
How much do you want to spend..??
Also, do you intend to run the amp directly with your DAC?
How are you planning on adjusting the volume? Some of the Class D amps need a buffer between a directly connected volume pot and the amp input, or the high end frequency response tilts downwards as the pot resistance changes..
How much do you want to spend..??
The speaker is rated at 8W RMS and 16W peak I want them as loud as possible but while still keeping the dynamics intact ... what type of amp would you advise ?
The signal chain will be ... DAC ---> AMP >>>> speakers
Yes it would be nice to adjust the volume and it would be nice to have the volume consistent as I don't want any volume difference when 2 amps and 2 speakers are playing together at the same volume setting.
Could I have some information about the buffer please ?? I never heard about this before but your knowledge is really useful!!
I wanna spend like 300 USD ?
I want them as loud as possible but while still keeping the dynamics intact ... what type of amp would you advise ? The signal chain will be ... DAC ---> AMP >>>> speakers
Yes it would be nice to adjust the volume and it would be nice to have the volume consistent as I don't want any volume difference when 2 amps and 2 speakers are playing together at the same volume setting.
Could I have some information about the buffer please ?? I never heard about this before but your knowledge is really useful!!
I wanna spend like 300 USD ?
Tang Band W2-924SQ ...but the one I have is a custom made one, but has almost the same properties and efficiency etc ... only thing that it changed is the frequency response.
I would be very grateful if you could advise me on what type of amplification I would need to get the very best results in terms of super fast impulse response , minimum distortion, good damping factor , and highest dynamic range possible without clipping ... and with regards to the speaker specs ??
Thank you so so so much in advance!!!
Yea, I want the TRUTH too. I imagine a sound system that covers a whole wall. The sound coming out would reproduce the exact holographic image of the original sound wave that was recorded by a device that was the exact shape and size of the wall in your room, so the sound wave that you hear is an exact reproduction of the original sound wave. THE TRUTH. SIGH!!!
But damn, we are stuck with speakers. ;-)
James
SIGH!!!But damn, we are stuck with speakers. ;-)
James
1 speaker per mono amp.
I'm not interested in anything below 150 Hz for the moment
I want to get the one 'm doing all perfect. Then i'll think about a sub if I need it
So have you got any tips ??
Dude, this is ridiculous... The thing is 85dB@1W and has a rated power of 8Watt, that means a wopping 9dB of extra headroom, giving you a total of 94dB of dynamic range. More is your single speaker not capable of. Even when stressing to the max power rating of 16Watt, it would only stretch to 97dB.
Oh man thanks for your precision :O
What type of amp would you advise me then ?
I am a little bit confused about what the dynamic range means , we as engineers understand dynamic range as for example :
"a snappy attacky punchy snare has more dynamic range when compared to a compressed and flattened snare."
And i'd like those speakers to show those differences without any compromise.
Is it this type of dynamic range u're talking about or you mean dynamic range in an orchestra where it can be very soft and sometimes very loud?
Any advice on the class D amp that I should get please mate ?
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