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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 1st October 2012, 08:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctordata View Post
Go to ebay and search for L15D or L20D or L25D plenty out there and read LJM's MY DESIGN L20D IRS2092+IRFI4020H 200W8R
For other IRS2092-based amp modules see

Connexelectronic

I'm going to get these; the ebay ones are so cheap that I fear the parts quality is not good.

Also I believe zoetsang's modules have to have the heat conductive grease added, not sure about along's.
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Old 1st October 2012, 08:38 PM   #22
aarvin2 is offline aarvin2  Mauritius
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Don't you guys know any of those top notch amps with their power supplies, proper chassis and heat sink etc ?? I don't wanna complicate my life with amp assembly ... which I know nothing of ..except specs lol
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Old 1st October 2012, 08:56 PM   #23
tommus is offline tommus  United States
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I have Abletec modules, a 300W mono ALC-0300 and a 2x90W ALC-0180. They each have an integrated SMPS and are very compact. They will take +/-10V balanced inputs. They are reasonably priced, too. I ordered them from Profusion (UK). I made 3-way plate amps with them, and drive them with the Minidsp 2x8.
Honestly, I don't have much else to compare them to but the specs look good and I think they sound great. I suspect being able to keep the signal hot and balanced is a big part of this. Also, I have an active system so they are not running full-range.
There is very little discussion anywhere on the net about these amps, but there is a short thread about them here at diyaudio.com. If anyone else has an opinion about them I'd be glad to hear it.

- Tom
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Old 1st October 2012, 09:04 PM   #24
MrSlim is offline MrSlim  Canada
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So, Why are you asking about Amps on a DIY site if you dont want to DIY????

Class D Audio will sell you all the pieces you need, or you can buy a prebuilt amp..
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Old 1st October 2012, 09:54 PM   #25
aarvin2 is offline aarvin2  Mauritius
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Because from the posts I have read , people on here are very knowledgeable
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Old 2nd October 2012, 12:55 AM   #26
MrSlim is offline MrSlim  Canada
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Originally Posted by aarvin2 View Post
Because from the posts I have read , people on here are very knowledgeable
Check out the "Cheap and cheerful" forum on AudioCircle. The ClassD amps are well regarded there also.
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Old 2nd October 2012, 06:20 AM   #27
AP2 is offline AP2  Italy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarvin2 View Post
Don't you guys know any of those top notch amps with their power supplies, proper chassis and heat sink etc ?? I don't wanna complicate my life with amp assembly ... which I know nothing of ..except specs lol
For the specifications that you wrote at the beginning, seems perfect the new F-3 for you.
but I doubt that you're looking for a real amp, with these performances.
i joke eh!

Regards
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Old 2nd October 2012, 02:14 PM   #28
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I am building a set of open baffle speakers with the goal of the most natural sound possible. Since sound reproduction is inherently unnatural, my goal is to fool my ears into thinking there are instruments in front of me.
My wife is a folk musician so I frequently hear unamplified acoustic instruments, and they are my benchmark.
The number one problem I have encountered is to overcome the sensitivities of my own ears. I am especially sensitive to harshness in high frequencies. Thus, single driver speaker, which have stunning midranges, fail because of inter-modulation distortion which introduces nonlinear high frequencies, harshness, in the highs.
To get around this, I have chosen a mid/high driverBG NEO8, that can reach down to 650hz, which is low enough to fool my ear in the midrange, but high enough to avoid most inter-modulation distortion.
Amplification has been a real problem for me. I have tried solid state, tube, and Class D. The Class D came the closest for me but still had some harshness in the highs.
I bought a Sure TK2050 4X to experiment with, to give me a side to experiment with and a side to leave unaltered. I removed the input caps and output filter. I replaced the input cap with a variety of caps deciding on polystyrene (I am using 1.0uF, low, but I am using it with the high/mid driver). The output filter makes the most difference. I am currently using 10nF air core inductors that I made myself (I am going to put the amp in a steel case to block stray EMF). And, 1.0uF polystyrene caps from Russia. I put a 1nF polystyrene cap across the output to provide the necessary load for when speakers are not connected.
The midrange through about 4K Hz is stunningly natural. Right now the highs from 4K to about 10K Hz (above that the ear is very insensitive so small differences don't make much differences) are slightly too bright compared to reality and to the unaltered amp. When freq content hits this range, it reminds me that I am listening to reproduced music. However, the highs are cleaner than any amp I have ever heard regardless of price, I just need to keep experimenting with values.
For the low frequencies, I have found Class D to give a tight natural sound. I like SMPS power supplies because they seem to give punch when it is called for, as in tight headed bass drums. I've found that here, even cheap Class D amps are quite satisfactory.

James
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Old 2nd October 2012, 05:48 PM   #29
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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Dynamic range and realistic sound reproduction has more to do with the source/DAC than the amp. I would look into that first. Order of importance goes 1. speakers 2. source 3. amplifier.
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Old 2nd October 2012, 09:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jyoung070848 View Post
Right now the highs from 4K to about 10K Hz (above that the ear is very insensitive so small differences don't make much differences) are slightly too bright compared to reality and to the unaltered amp.
How about a shelving filter to reduce that range?

Are you using EQ?

And is your room treated?

You may be swatting at gnats while ignoring elephants in the room.
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