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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 27th September 2013, 12:53 PM   #41
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Hi All,
I bought one of these a while back and had a bit of a discussion about it here Impulse purchase on ebay - Sure Electronics 2x250W Class D
and Neil Davis provided some excellent data for these units.
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Old 30th September 2013, 11:13 AM   #42
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Are the blue resistors suppose to get hot?
I had to turn it of because of smell during my adjustment. I have not run it for long yet but they do get hot.
*edit* A quick calculation puts it right at the edge of 1W with 70V rails, seems a but much for such a small resistor in an enclosed space.

Last edited by David_Web; 30th September 2013 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 9th October 2013, 03:07 PM   #43
hongrn is offline hongrn  United States
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Hi gainphile,

Here's the response I got from the Sure technicians. What is your take on the statements below? Thanks.

Dear hongrn, thanks for your purchase. We feel sorry for the delay in reply as we've just come back from the National's Day holiday.
We need to clarify that this amplifier board is easy to get hot as it cannot be added a fan and the IC depends that it will produce some more heat than other amplifier board.
We have confirmed with our technical engineer:

The position you pointed out in the photo is correct but you named them incorrect.
The correct names areP1A and P1B.
You can adjust the resistor to 265ohm, but as to the frequency, you need to adjust it below 250HZ the proper value is 200kHz.


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Sure-hifi
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Old 10th October 2013, 05:11 AM   #44
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it looks like they want to look like they dont know language good enough......
i ordered out of curiosity 2 X 300W Combo Kit w 36V 350W Power Supply TAS5630
and on info they say amp must be pluged in without signal input becouse it will fry instantly.. my goal for this amp is fulrange
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Old 10th October 2013, 05:20 PM   #45
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I found out that all the power resistors are too small to handle the power when running +-65V supply. I guess the solder will melt with time on a hot day.

I added copper wings to the house resistors but found out that the two 2k2 resistors also where burning hot.

Should I readjust i down from 400kHz to 200kHz? Won't that need a steeper filter to prevent it from broadcasting RF all around?
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Old 15th November 2013, 07:12 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hongrn View Post
Hi gainphile,

Here's the response I got from the Sure technicians. What is your take on the statements below? Thanks.

Dear hongrn, thanks for your purchase. We feel sorry for the delay in reply as we've just come back from the National's Day holiday.
We need to clarify that this amplifier board is easy to get hot as it cannot be added a fan and the IC depends that it will produce some more heat than other amplifier board.
We have confirmed with our technical engineer:

The position you pointed out in the photo is correct but you named them incorrect.
The correct names areP1A and P1B.
You can adjust the resistor to 265ohm, but as to the frequency, you need to adjust it below 250HZ the proper value is 200kHz.


Regards
Sure-hifi
Does that mean - 265ohm should measure between the ground and the junction C4/C6 ?
Regards, WL
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Old 15th November 2013, 09:29 PM   #47
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Thanks for that official info (but then ... Why didn't they set it from the factory?). My measurement points were the red dots on the photo from previous page.
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Old 15th November 2013, 10:36 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gainphile View Post
Thanks for that official info (but then ... Why didn't they set it from the factory?). My measurement points were the red dots on the photo from previous page.
The resistance between the red dots in your photo does not include the 100R of the R11.

If the resistance of P1 measures 265R, then the total resistance between the C4/C6 junction and the ground will be 365R. Am I right?

Last edited by Wieslaw Lipowsk; 15th November 2013 at 10:37 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 30th November 2013, 10:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redjr View Post
This is my first fore into building a Class D amp. I selected ready-made modules .
That is a good decision.
I have made my own 2092 based systems and had great fun trying to get them working. The application note says to be careful with decoupling and pcb layout.
The pcb layout takes time to get right making sure there is no ground loop from high current paths to low level audio.
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Old 15th January 2014, 12:50 PM   #50
MylesR is offline MylesR  United States
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Default Power supply??

Hi everyone this is my first post here and I am in the middle if building my first amp with the sure 2x250w. The power supply that I have assembled is an avel 40-0-40 toroidal to a 400v 25a bridge rectifier to a 63v 94000uf capacitor bank the measured voltage that gives me is 59.xx (can't recal exact voltage currently at school). My question is how do I wire my power supply to the amp?? Do I need to split my capacitor bank in half to have 2 47000uf banks?? I am kinda at a lost? I don't want to mess up and be on the receiving end of a blown cap, 60v, or anything like that.
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