Nichicon HZ give the best bang for the buck at supply voltages under 16V. To reduce the influence of the switching supply, put an inductor in series with its output. Its value will depend on how much capacitance you've put on your PCB.
Does the Sanwu board have filtering on the analog supply (pin17) ? If not, an RC filter there will boost transparency considerably.
@wushuliu - it certainly looks like it. Its a mono amp and they're claiming 100W output.
Does the Sanwu board have filtering on the analog supply (pin17) ? If not, an RC filter there will boost transparency considerably.
@wushuliu - it certainly looks like it. Its a mono amp and they're claiming 100W output.
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I noticed there was a discussion going on regarding the authenticity of certain Tpa3118 chips. What is the general consensus about the markings on these chips?
I have 4 amplifier boards now, two of them have a slightly thicker PCB and all of the components have different names compared to the boards posted here. The Tpa3118 chip on these boards have a white dot and the batch number is very easy to remove just by rubbing your finger on the chip itself. It should also be noted that the background noise on these two boards is a lot lower than the whining noise present on the two other boards (same layout as all the others in this thread).
I have 4 amplifier boards now, two of them have a slightly thicker PCB and all of the components have different names compared to the boards posted here. The Tpa3118 chip on these boards have a white dot and the batch number is very easy to remove just by rubbing your finger on the chip itself. It should also be noted that the background noise on these two boards is a lot lower than the whining noise present on the two other boards (same layout as all the others in this thread).
The three boards that are straight Sanwu-copies. https://i.imgur.com/xRpF7hH.jpg
One of the boards with the different component names and slightly thicker PCB. Notice how the text is completely gone on the TPA3118 after touching it a handful of times. Please excuse the nasty flux left on the connectors.
https://i.imgur.com/LxzhyTt.jpg
Hi,
Just found this interesting tiny TPA3116 board.
It doesn't have inductors and is all smd components.
Just wondering it's there any issues with this design. I like the idea of fully smd components and filterless design which is possible with speaker cables less than 60cm according to datasheet.
Not sure this board is done correctly accordingly
Any feedback would be appreciated
Thanks
Just found this interesting tiny TPA3116 board.
It doesn't have inductors and is all smd components.
Just wondering it's there any issues with this design. I like the idea of fully smd components and filterless design which is possible with speaker cables less than 60cm according to datasheet.
Not sure this board is done correctly accordingly
Any feedback would be appreciated
Thanks
Attachments
【XH-M562 超微版TPA3116D2数字音频放大板 D类功放板 超薄 双50W】http://v.cvz5.com/h.DaY3CR 点击链接，再选择浏览器打开；或复制这条信息￥GE0u0Sstypw￥后打开��手淘��
It seems it doesn't have LC and snubber circuit at all . Not even ferrite beat
It seems it doesn't have LC and snubber circuit at all . Not even ferrite beat
Thank you for the link. This board is really small, and inexpensive. Typically all the 3116 boards that I have seen have heat sink. But it is so cheap, don't mind getting one and give it a try. Need to find a pair of "throw away" speakers to test it though
Regards,
Thank you for the link. This board is really small, and inexpensive. Typically all the 3116 boards that I have seen have heat sink. But it is so cheap, don't mind getting one and give it a try. Need to find a pair of "throw away" speakers to test it though
Regards,
No f-beads, no supply blocking electrolytics - etc. -
directly manufactured for the landfill-site.
Every cent is one too much
No f-beads, no supply blocking electrolytics - etc. -
directly manufactured for the landfill-site.
Every cent is one too much
You are definitely entitled to your own opinion. You are looking at it as a "complete" amp and comparing it to all the boards on the market. What if one looks at it as a "core" whereby different power supply modules and output filter modules can be attached.
Does one still need supply blocking cap if a 12 V DC battery is used?? So if one has to add a ferrite bead, so what?? By the way, have you actually tested it out and found out it is totally useless? Or you just take a look at the picture and decided it is a piece of crap. If your comment are based on first hand experience, please let everyone know and save us(me) some money.
I look at it this way, the 2$ it costs is low enough to pay for some learning experience, be it positive or negative. I have plenty class D amps in my house and definitely do not need another one. If I decided to buy it, it is purely for tinkering.
Off-board filtering won't really do as much as it "should", since the wires between the amp and the filters will be acting as antennas, radiating all the HF hash coming from the amplifier.
Yes, some local bulk filtering (in the range of hundreds of uF) IS, at the very least, welcome, to be able to provide the current needed for higher power peaks. Otherwise, due to the higher-impedance power wiring limiting the filling-up current for those 1206 ceramic caps, the power rail will sag, and the amp will clip earlier than it should, resulting in (unnecessary) distortion.
There are plenty of sub-2$ Sanwu-clone TPA3118 amps available from the usual suspects, that DO have both a meaningful amount of power filtering as well as complete LC filters on the outputs.
I don't know about you, but i prefer getting my money's worth, regardless of the amount spent
Yes, some local bulk filtering (in the range of hundreds of uF) IS, at the very least, welcome, to be able to provide the current needed for higher power peaks. Otherwise, due to the higher-impedance power wiring limiting the filling-up current for those 1206 ceramic caps, the power rail will sag, and the amp will clip earlier than it should, resulting in (unnecessary) distortion.
There are plenty of sub-2$ Sanwu-clone TPA3118 amps available from the usual suspects, that DO have both a meaningful amount of power filtering as well as complete LC filters on the outputs.
I don't know about you, but i prefer getting my money's worth, regardless of the amount spent
If it is only for tinkering - it is your pleasure.
Too often I see people doing the same and then "modding" it by swapping parts to more expensive ones - spending lots of money without any significant progress.
All in all I detest buying this more or less useless AliBaba/Amazon whatever crap that lands in less than one year on the dump sites in Africa.
This is my personal opinion, which might differ from yours.
Too often I see people doing the same and then "modding" it by swapping parts to more expensive ones - spending lots of money without any significant progress.
All in all I detest buying this more or less useless AliBaba/Amazon whatever crap that lands in less than one year on the dump sites in Africa.
This is my personal opinion, which might differ from yours.
As long as the performance of the amp is not affected, that's not an issue. Just put the amp inside a Faraday cage - in my case, a metal cookie box which I have plenty of various sizes
I thought we are talking about filtering, not supplying energy to the amp? What you talked about is again a non-issue if the battery is sufficiently large, like a 12 V car battery. My view, the short term current available from the car battery is way above any possible need of this amp.
Well, I am not sure where you saw that but I was not able to find any 3116 or 3118 amp boards at Taobao that cost less than 12 RMB. I have been playing with quite a few of these 3118, 3116 and 7498 amps from China. All these amps boards have LC output filters. Just curious, have you ever measured the inductors in the LC filter (removed them from the board first of course) to see whether they are actually of the value marked on the casing i.e the marking says 10 uH, does it really measures 10 uH? The data sheet stated that the value of the inductor should be chosen based on the load (speaker) impedance. I did, I can tell you that the quality of those inductors are poor and the the inductance value can be way off what it supposed to be. I have been looking for an amp without any output LC filters so I can experiment with different LC filters set up without desoldering the board. These cheap boards are very fragile and the traces can be easily destroyed. I said that from experience.
I don't know about you, but i prefer getting my money's worth, regardless of the amount spent
Totally agree, it is all subjective and personal. For less than the cost of a cup of Starbuck coffee, I am going to get hours of tinkering pleasure or frustrations, and learn something about the amp, what's not worth it?
Show me something that's of better value for 2 US$ If it is only for tinkering - it is your pleasure.
Too often I see people doing the same and then "modding" it by swapping parts to more expensive ones - spending lots of money without any significant progress.
All in all I detest buying this more or less useless AliBaba/Amazon whatever crap that lands in less than one year on the dump sites in Africa.
This is my personal opinion, which might differ from yours.
I hear you. I have a similar opinion - money is not well spent to mod these boards. For a few of the boards that I bought, I only listened to them for 10-15 minutes, and then I just just threw them into my miscellaneous drawer.
Disposal of these boards does not bother me too much, at lease they are small. I am more worry about the used computers, monitors, TVs that people are throwing out.
Regards,
As long as the performance of the amp is not affected, that's not an issue. Just put the amp inside a Faraday cage - in my case, a metal cookie box which I have plenty of various sizes
Fair enough, i suppose, but it's still "just" a band-aid for substandard engineering / design.
My first paragraph was indeed about the output filtering, but the second one was about power filtering. Those four 1206 caps can't be more than 4.7uF / 25v each, and that's being mildly generous. The battery may indeed be able to supply whatever current the amp needs, BUT you won't be soldering the battery terminals directly to the board, will you?
Decoupling capacitor - Wikipedia
Then you must not have tried hard enough. I don't speak any chinese (or actually mandarin, i'd guess), and still just today, even before commenting here, for my own purposes, i did some searching precisely for TPA3118 boards on Taobao, and i found dozens starting around 8RMB or so.
https://s.taobao.com/search?q=tpa31...ppushleft=,44&ntoffset=-3&sort=price-asc&s=88
Here they are, ordered by ascending price. The first two pages were full of results for bare chips.
No, i haven't, or at least not yet, anyway. Although i do want a bunch of those blue TPA3118 boards, for some surround speakers and some other later projects.
As for the desoldering stuff, on one hand, it depends what tools you're using, and on the other hand, how you're using them. I imagine it doesn't take much to mutilate a board with one of those unregulated mains-powered "fire-sticks", but on the other hand, good tooling can also be mis-used. That being said, especially if the factory solder is lead-free, it helps to add some leaded solder to the joints, to help them melt sooner.
I have bought many tpa311x as well. I think I got the idea how it sound and what not.
Somehow I can definitely see the manufacturer design the amp at minimum cost. As what you all said, if there's any design/board that is stand out will be worth buying.
But today, I'm more keen on TPA3221 which will replace TPA311x and TPA3255 which have max power. Just waiting for it
Somehow I can definitely see the manufacturer design the amp at minimum cost. As what you all said, if there's any design/board that is stand out will be worth buying.
But today, I'm more keen on TPA3221 which will replace TPA311x and TPA3255 which have max power. Just waiting for it
Well, we are talking about tinkering/diying a 2 $ amp, sub standard engineering design? Seriously?
I do not quite understand your "decoupling cap in the range of hundreds of uF" comments. If you look at the schematic (fig. 27) on p14 in the data sheet, I did not see any "decoupling cap in the range of hundreds of uF". I only saw a 220uf cap connected to the PVCC (for power filtering I presume).
You are right. I did not try hard enough. Look like almost all of them are from one manufacturer. They are all mono amps and look like a Sanwu clone. But for tinkering, I guess mono is OK. However, along the line voltwide and you alluded to already, and my own experience with these amp boards, I definitely will not touch these amps. If the bare chips (assuming they are not fake) costs 6-7 RMB, a 9 RMB board is just way over the line in terms of price. Would you buy them? I am cheap, but I do know the bottom line and not unrealistic
. Try desoldering those surface mount inductors when they are line up side by side 4 in row. I guess one can put them back in the reflow oven and remove them, and all other components too. If I can get something that I do have to do desoldering, why not?