TI TPA3100D2, Amazing Class D Amp

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I've been having a ball playing with digital amps ... in fact, I've gone all digital! ... Even in the shed!

Used the 3100 for both amps on my 3 Pis and other set-ups. I replaced the PS caps with Pan FM 470uf/25V and lowered gain for the tweet and used Pan HFQ 1000uF/25V and stock gain for the woof.

TPA3100 and DSP.jpg

Fantastic at low volumes! Crisp and clean.

But ...

I actually found the 3116 worked better for me:

miniDSP2x4 with digital amps.jpg

The 3116 were able to transition to medium volume and had better bass control.

Davids and Goliath.jpg
Davids and Goliath!

My post on the 3116:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-55.html#post3679022

I didn't replace the input coupling caps on the 3100 so ... maybe I'll do that and re-compare.

3100 on piezo.jpg
Piezo = high and rising impedance = possible danger! ... but sounds good so far ...

Other things I found, re: 3100:

-picked up interference from a near-by computer but the 3116 didn't
-output terminals, a little wussy compared to the 3116

But ... I'm not really saying it's 'better' (chill, mu-shu pork) just more suited to low power apps. Get both! and while you're at it get 7297, to keep shmuck happy.
:D
 
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I have magnet wire in several gauges. I'll have to look when I get home of what exact gauges I have in the parts box; but 24AWG, 26AWG, and 30AWG come to mind.

I could wind some inductors and replace the ones on this board if:

1) Some one would instruct me on how to do that. How to determine the proper value, etc.

2) If you guys feel it would work and be worth the effort.

Thanks,
Mark

Hm, if you already have Jerry's amp and that works fine not sure you need the 3123. The TPAs sound very similar to me so it's not like you'd really be upgrading except in terms of power and Jerry's has high quality components.

Btw get yourself an SLA battery. These amps sound incredible w/ SLA, especially for high efficiency you'll benefit from the lower noise.
 
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Well guys,

I'm going to just pitch this amp and give it up.

Last night, I noticed when I rotated the volume pot I'd get a little snap (almost as loud as the turn-on snap). So I thought: Something is wrong with that volume pot on the board. I yanked it and replaced it with a Radio Shack one.

The problem remained.

So I am guessing something is wrong with the chip of this amp.

Mark
 
Can anyone point me to the appropriate wiring harness (on eBay) for the tpa3116 like Audiolapdance's amps. Those amps are shown in his post #251, above?


l think I'll take X's suggestion and order one.

Thanks,
Mark

That's in the TPA3116 thread:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-50.html#post3673369

In one case I just removed the plastic housing around the 3 input pins so I could use a generic 3 pin header. On another I removed the 3 pin and put two 2-pin headers (one to and one bottom)

Another guy used a 3-pin header from a computer ...

That's one of the only bad things about the 3116 board ...
 
Thanks

I will do that then, just work around the 3 pin connector. What in the world? These should be:

1) either sold with the wiring harness (or state the size and type to purchase)
2) or, made with a screw type terminal block

Sometimes the logic of the electronics industry is sort of beyond me. Parts like volume pots for instance and selector switches are sold with no sort of hookup instructions. You have to figure it out for yourself. That sort of thing.

I just thought I was missing some obvious and readily available item.

Mark
 
Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
I will do that then, just work around the 3 pin connector. What in the world? These should be:

1) either sold with the wiring harness (or state the size and type to purchase)
2) or, made with a screw type terminal block

Sometimes the logic of the electronics industry is sort of beyond me. Parts like volume pots for instance and selector switches are sold with no sort of hookup instructions. You have to figure it out for yourself. That sort of thing.

I just thought I was missing some obvious and readily available item.

Mark

You can order the RCA to funny 3-pin connector from YJ's website ($1.28 as well as the 3116 amp for $14). It's cheap - however, shipping is not free like from other sites. Just solder straight to it or go to Fry's/microPC to get a PC motherboard 3-pin audio cable.

Cable:
Yuan Jing Audio - ON SALE! - Stereo RCA Inter-connection Board - $1.28 - Connectors

Amp:
Yuan Jing Audio - ON SALE! - TPA3116 Class-D Stereo Amplifier Board [50W+50W] - $13.99
 
Hi !

4 layer Board (50mm x 85mm) based on the TPA3106D1 (Mono Version of the TPA3100D2). This amp will drive my 8ohm 97db Single Driver Speakers (Omega 3XRS). I am currently using an 2a3 amp. I only need a couple watts...

Filter inductor will be the WE-HCI 1890 or the Bourns 2100LL. Cant decide so I designed both into the board. I have plan on using a 4S LiPo(14.8V) battery pack with custom charger( DIY). I will be using Rubycon ST and OS-CON caps for the power supply and output filtering. The input cap will be a Jupiter HT Beeswax (0.22uf).

ANY and ALL feedback is welcome. :D

Thanks

Dwight
 

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Hi !

4 layer Board (50mm x 85mm) based on the TPA3106D1 (Mono Version of the TPA3100D2). This amp will drive my 8ohm 97db Single Driver Speakers (Omega 3XRS). I am currently using an 2a3 amp. I only need a couple watts...

Filter inductor will be the WE-HCI 1890 or the Bourns 2100LL. Cant decide so I designed both into the board. I have plan on using a 4S LiPo(14.8V) battery pack with custom charger( DIY). I will be using Rubycon ST and OS-CON caps for the power supply and output filtering. The input cap will be a Jupiter HT Beeswax (0.22uf).

ANY and ALL feedback is welcome. :D

Thanks

Dwight
Hi, the custom charger looks interesting. I picked up a 16v LI battery in the Sears bargain bin over the weekend. I charged it up with an adjustable V/A power supply. I'm not sure what the charging votage should be? I used 16v
Thanks
 
Hi, the custom charger looks interesting. I picked up a 16v LI battery in the Sears bargain bin over the weekend. I charged it up with an adjustable V/A power supply. I'm not sure what the charging votage should be? I used 16v
Thanks

Probably not a good idea to charge lithium-ion battery that way. There is a serious risk of fire if not charged properly.
 
TPA3122 Class D 1939 Radio

My non-audiophile friend asked me to convert his non-working Zenith radio into a modern iPhone music maker without spending much money on the project. (read no restoration or restoration parts) I replaced the tube amp with a TPA3122D2 board powered by a 24V 5A external supply. A new speaker baffle board was crafted and two 8" Wild Burro Betsy drivers were installed. I installed a mini plug connector on the back of the amp that connects to an iPhone or iPod perched on top of the radio. The sound is great!

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Cervelorider,
Very nice work on the Zenith! Amazing how the little Jerry's amp board replaces that huge tube setup. Probably more power than the tube ever made. The vertical arrangement of the two drivers is great for a pseudo mono effect which is great for a radio or iPod dock. The round columns on the front originally were decorative but they may act as HF dispersion elements to reduce beaming.
 
Probably not a good idea to charge lithium-ion battery that way. There is a serious risk of fire if not charged properly.
The battery comes half charged. The power supply I charged it with is a rather fancy industrial unit with 10 turn pots for both volts and amps.
The battery has some sort of internal protection against over charging, discharging and temperature.
I charged the battery @ 16v .8amps and it is now connected to my favourite tda7297 and seems to be working fine.
 
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Joined 2002
Lithium ion/Lithium polymer cells that don't have built-in charger circuits are like hand grenades when connected to normal power supplies. If the charging curve differs more than 1 % you already have a risk. The charger is specifically for the cells in other words they are a couple. Charging the cells with a power supply really is very dangerous. These are not like NiMh or sealed lead batteries.

Temp must be monitored, voltage and current must be within 1 % of the specified range. Otherwise: boom ! There are specific ICs for charging LiPo and Li ion cells that do all these function so the cells are charged safely and the cells can be charged 1000 times.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixIOEPnsgbI

Please check the battery type and how is must be charged exactly. The built in protection circuit (as written on the sleeve) sometimes is not there with cheap batteries.
 
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TPA3110 Golden Ratio Boombox

I just made a little Golden Ratio bipolar boombox with the Sure 3110 board, and i am very pleased with the result. Its using 6w 8ohm speakers and a 4 ah 12v battery.

I sealed and stuffed the box with acoustic dampening wool, and is very surprised how good and loud it plays. The 360 degree sound effect is really nice, just put it on the table and the sound is all-around the living room:)

I wonder how many hours i get before charging? I think i should get around 80 hours playtime, will see... time will tell.

Here is some pics

TPA3110 Golden Ratio Boombox | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
 
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I'll post here, since I don't want to contaminate the TPA3116D2 thread on this Class D forum. I received my Sure Electronics TPA3110D2 amp board from Parts Express. I started with the basic, "can't wait to set it up" setup with the amp and connected it to my ARC LS7 tube line stage preamp and Klipsch Forte II speakers.

2013-12-20 15.47.33.jpg
2013-12-20 15.47.50.jpg

Overall, I really like the presentation. To my ears, this amp is capable of delivering really good sound that is better than the older Tripath-based Class D amps I've had and still own; however, I have an issue with background noise that sounds like RFI. When I engage the MUTE on my preamp, the noise goes away.

Someone on another forum mentioned he had the same problem with his TPA3110D2 amp when he connected it to his preamp, but when he connected it to his Airport Express, the noise went away.

I fabricated a makeshift test chassis using some scrap wood, Aluminum angle stock and better connectors. So then I connected my amp to my iPhone and played some music and the noise went away.

A3-1.jpg



  • Anyone have any ideas as to why I am hearing noise with my preamp?
  • Is it an impedance-matching issue where I need to add 47kohm resistors between the signal inputs and ground?
  • Is it a shielding issue where this amp needs to be in a metal enclosure with shielded hook-up wire to limit RFI emission?
 
I was able to sort out the noise issue by installing 33kohm resistors between the signal inputs and signal grounds. No more weird RFI and now all I get is room-filling sound. Ideally, I would put in 47kohm resistors, but these were the closest I had in my stash. I may install a 50k Panasonic EVJ volume pot. For now, it sounds great as a power amp paired with my ARC LS7 tube line stage preamp.
 
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