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-   -   WIRING HELP for a Super Duper Nice Girl ;) (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/216022-wiring-help-super-duper-nice-girl.html)

kittygirl 12th July 2012 08:38 AM

WIRING HELP for a Super Duper Nice Girl ;)
 
Hi Guys,
I am looking to add an ON/OFF switch to this mini amplifier.

DC 12 Mini Amplifier Board 10W + 10W Class D Amplifier | eBay

I have been looking for a Potentiometer style ON/OFF switch, that doesn't have a volume control. Reason being, is purely cosmetic. I want 2 knobs rather than have 1 knob and 1 toggle switch. Does anyone know of a source for these, that is if the even make them.

With that being said, I see on the circuit board a "power switch". Is there a connector that I can buy that will fit that power switch receptacle?

I also would like to change the LED to a blue one, like this

4pcs 5mm Blue 12V Car/Boat LED + Metal Holder Bezel,5HB s | eBay

Sorry for the newbie questions, but a huge thank you in advance.

Kiana

macboy 12th July 2012 01:32 PM

What you are looking for is a two position rotary switch. You could use SPST, SPDT, DPST, or DPDT, but it must have only two positions (i.e. it does not have a center "off" position). Look at digi-key for this CKN9487 as an example. The shaft doesn't need to match the one on the amp, but think about whether the knobs you want to use are compatible.

Those pre-wired LEDs probably (hopefully) have a series resistor selected for 12V use, so one would be just right for this application I think.

On the amp board, you see a shunt (sometimes mistakenly called a jumper) across the power switch pins, resulting in the amp being always-on. Remove the shunt and connect the switch. The headers for the power and mute switches look like 0.1" (2.54mm) centers, so sou will need wires with connectors, try searching eBay for dupont 20cm.

heyduard 12th July 2012 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kittygirl (Post 3089566)
Hi Guys,
I am looking to add an ON/OFF switch to this mini amplifier.

DC 12 Mini Amplifier Board 10W + 10W Class D Amplifier | eBay

Wow! that's a great buy. Better buy two or more. At $7 a pop, the QA/QC dept won't be well funded. ;)

Let us know how these amps rock.

kittygirl 13th July 2012 06:28 PM

Thank you for your reply macboy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by macboy (Post 3089776)
What you are looking for is a two position rotary switch. You could use SPST, SPDT, DPST, or DPDT, but it must have only two positions (i.e. it does not have a center "off" position).

Is there any way of using a 3 position switch? Maybe adding a shunt, by soldering a wire? I found this one ROTARY SWITCH, 2-POLE, 3-POSITION | AllElectronics.com

I did find some cheap options for 2 position switches but they are rated at 6a 125V

54-542 - NTE Electronics - ROTARY,ON-OFF,SPST,6A,125VAC,2 POS, STEEL

54-541 - NTE Electronics - ROTARY,ON-OFF,SPST,6A,125VAC,2 POS

Will these work?


Quote:

Originally Posted by macboy (Post 3089776)
On the amp board, you see a shunt (sometimes mistakenly called a jumper) across the power switch pins, resulting in the amp being always-on. Remove the shunt and connect the switch. The headers for the power and mute switches look like 0.1" (2.54mm) centers, so sou will need wires with connectors, try searching eBay for dupont 20cm.

Can I just unsolder the white power switch outlet and solder my wires directly to the board? Or is it better to get the dupont connectors you mentioned?

Thanks again

theAnonymous1 13th July 2012 09:40 PM

Those switches will work fine; a good find actually, well done. You probably want the 54-542 since it has a knurled shaft.

If you're capable of soldering the wires directly to the board that's the best thing to do.

underwurlde 13th July 2012 10:57 PM

Hmmm, that mistakenly-called-jumper-it's-a-shunt looks remarkably like a jumper to me! But whatever, pull it out.

No need to remove the connector - leave it there. Removing it could be tricky and my result in damage to the PCB. Simply solder on two wires to the bottom of the PCB where the connector pins protrude underneath. If you mess things up, can always then go back to using the jumper, sorry, 'shunt'.

Simples.

Andy

kittygirl 14th July 2012 06:36 AM

Thanks again for the responses! I love this forum!

Awesome, I think I will order a couple of the 54-542's and report back.

kittygirl 14th July 2012 11:01 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I have 2 more questions for you Audio GURUS!!!

I am wanting to move the audio jack off of the board so I can mount them to the box I am putting it in.

The 3.5mm 1/8" audio jack currently on the board is like this one

10pcs,1/8" 3.5mm Female Phono Stereo Panel Phone Jack,2501 | eBay

and I want to switch it to this one

10pcs,1/8" 3.5mm Female Phono Stereo Panel Phone Jack,2634 | eBay

Could I do the same thing and leave the existing jack on the board and just solder my new wires to the bottom of the board? Or should I remove the existing one and wire my leads directly to the board.

Also I am wondering if it is possible to have another audio jack. I would love to be able to have a 1/4" guitar jack in addition to the 1/8" audio jack. So I can play my guitar and listen to my mp3 player. Of course not at the same time ;).

Is this possible, and if so is there a way to utilize the "stereo" or both channels, since the guitar jack is "mono".

Am I being crazy for thinking this is a possibility?

Thanks so much guys!!!
Kiana



The audio jack is like one

picowallspeaker 14th July 2012 11:37 AM

Hi ,
about positioning the jack on the frontal (or top ) and soldering the wires under the original :
it may be not optimal because a good joint is obtained also by mechanical
joint first , then solder .

theAnonymous1 14th July 2012 02:11 PM

With small guage short wires I don't see an issue soldering the wires under the board and leaving the connectors in place. She's not building an AC powered PA amp. ;)

As far as using a 1/4" mono jack on the input, you would have to either rig up a switch or only connect it to one channel. If you connect it to both channels it will obviously short them together.


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