Ultimate Class D amps for active speakers

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wow, you actually bought the new preamp/xo :eek::cool:

I guess you will need balanced amps :scratch2:

I am trying to go balanced if I can...

you could wait for the LPUHP commercial variant to be ready, its about as close to the perfect tweeter amp you can get. balanced input 16WPC Class A/B with unmeasurable distortion and pretty much every other measurement was bouncing up against the levels of the rather high end measurement gear.

thats what i'm using them for, but for a completely software driven crossover with multiple sabre dac channels. it was a limited number GB only PCBs were sold, but the response has been so good that opc is in the middle of producing a commercial version, I do not think that there is a better suited amp available at any cost for this niche.

oh and it sounds brilliant! I was one of the lucky ones with the quick trigger finger

send opc a PM, he might be able to give you an idea of when they'll be available. afaik hes received the PCBs and they are in production

Yes I just saw those when I went to see what the LPUHP was. I didn't read all 48 pages but of the first 10 pages I breezed through it does seem ideal for the 95dB 8ohm RAALs.
 
tinitus,

he did test the aussieamp, it seems not right for him yet.

cheers
henry

When hearing them in a comparison test, I didn't think they were in the same league as the RB0192 I am currently using, but then again there is a significant price difference too.

I still have a 5 channel RMB-1075 which is analogue (not sure what class) but it is nowhere near as good as the current Class D.
 
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Not sure he got it second hand for $1000 if I recall correctly.

Now that opc is doing a commercial version of the LPUHP I think I have found the high end solution I need for the tweeters. In fact I am now considering going active on the centre and surround sound channels as well, so I might need to grab about 5 or 7 of them, depending on the price.

So that just leaves the Class D mid and LF drivers to sort out.
 
well, i would like to try one myself for the LPUHP, maybe we can save some postage later on :D

i checked the rotels, it was based on ICE modules, many prefer hypex than the ICE on few comparisons, i guess it wont hurt to try to look into hypex.

i saw few days ago someone selling ucd2k, now that can take the bass to another level.. hehe

cheers
henry
 
shoot me a PM, i'll forward on your contact details to his email, hes not the best at replying to PMs because hes getting pummeled from all directions from his GB's.

You may even be able to buy without a case, I have no inside info on that front but if it suits it might be win win for both of you. if youve skimmed the first 10 pages thats all you really need to read, theres a fair bit of bickering (myself included) and talking **** waiting for heatsinks for the GB and people whining about there not being any more PCBs.

Even cased its bound to be nice and compact, Myself I would (and AM) probably build the XO and amps into a separate case nearby the speakers rather than inside; unless you build it into the base in a well shielded and well damped enclosure.

the measurements speak for themselves, its not rocket science, just VERY good PCB layout, tight integration, regulated supply and high grade parts. stray fields are very minimal due to the toroid being sized perfectly for running tweeters.

tell you what youve sure got the ingredients for a great sounding system. the ground sound you got looks very nice $$$$, I havent been that impressed with the previous versions and the amps dont look anything too special, but its a great idea and the XO looks well executed, did you upgrade the opamps?

i've gone with the LPUHP for tweeters and his lateral fet power amps for the midwoofers and subs. i've also got a jfet circlotron and an aleph JX i'll play with for the midwoofers, but may use them for the lounge
 
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Ah I see you have a nice low distortion linear tweeter amp :) What crossover freq and slopes and what's the power you have on LF?

This isn't my thread but here is a quick rundown of the choices I've made so far for my active speakers that are currently in the really slow progress lane since I'm really taking my time. All the big decisions are made though.

My front speakers are going to be sealed 2way sitting on top of subwoofer L/R.

LR4 crossovers @ 80Hz and 1700Hz + notches to suit room and driver resonances. 3-6dB gain difference between tweeter and midbass amplifiers (will need to test this a bit once I have the speakers built)

Tweeter - LPUHP ~8W - Scanspeak 6600aircirc 4ohm 91db 2.83V/1m
Midbass - two choices, most likely to chose the first (a)160W The Wire Class AB or (b)100W from one channel of nxv203 - Scanspeak 18W/8531 8ohm 87db 2.83V/1m
Subwoofer - 300W (two channels bridged of nxv203) - Peerless 830500

EDIT:
Silent Screamer, great choice to go for the lpuhp from opc, I've only heard my LPUHP through fullrange 2way speakers so far, but I love this thing! I'm not familiar with the raal's, what impedance are they?
 
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This isn't my thread but here is a quick rundown of the choices I've made so far for my active speakers that are currently in the really slow progress lane since I'm really taking my time. All the big decisions are made though.

My front speakers are going to be sealed 2way sitting on top of subwoofer L/R.

LR4 crossovers @ 80Hz and 1700Hz + notches to suit room and driver resonances. 3-6dB gain difference between tweeter and midbass amplifiers (will need to test this a bit once I have the speakers built)

Tweeter - LPUHP ~8W - Scanspeak 6600aircirc 4ohm 91db 2.83V/1m
Midbass - two choices, most likely to chose the first (a)160W The Wire Class AB or (b)100W from one channel of nxv203 - Scanspeak 18W/8531 8ohm 87db 2.83V/1m
Subwoofer - 300W (two channels bridged of nxv203) - Peerless 830500

EDIT:
Silent Screamer, great choice to go for the lpuhp from opc, I've only heard my LPUHP through fullrange 2way speakers so far, but I love this thing! I'm not familiar with the raal's, what impedance are they?

Thanks qusp I will do shortly (need to get some food into me fairly soonish)
Haven't changed anything, haven't even turned it on yet...

hochopeper you're actually travelling a similar road to myself I was looking at the beryllium ScanSpeaks myself before I decided to go crazy and buy the RAAL 140-15D AM.

I went with the SS Illuminator instead of the SS Revelators that are in my Cremonas. First impression of the 12MUs is very encouraging can't wait to get them into a cabinet for a proper listen.

They are 8 ohm http://www.raalribbon.com/products_flatfoil_140-15.htm
 
But then again listening to the Rotels against the Mark Levinsons mine sounded a bit flat, but at double the price plus you would want to hear some kind of difference.

I think I now know what they mean about class D being a bit edgy, it sounded great, but it was like the end of notes were being cut off and gave it a flat sound.

Yes it does have 4 XLR connectors both sides but it can be run as either depending on how it is wired. Robert definately recommended to go balanced if possible.

I will also upgrade my Oppo BDP-83SE to the 95 later on because it now comes with balanced outs as well.
 
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This isn't my thread but here is a quick rundown of the choices I've made so far for my active speakers that are currently in the really slow progress lane since I'm really taking my time. All the big decisions are made though.

OK, appreciate you taking time out to give me the heads up :)

I'd just caution about the peak power requirements of the tweeter amp. Have a read of the article 'The Peak Power Demands of Well-recorded Music' on this page: CordellAudio.com - Home Entertainment Show 2007

In terms of average power then the amp you've chosen for the tweeters looks fine, I'm just a bit concerned you'll clip it on transients. I'm going to get Bob Cordell's torture track (Ricky Lee Jones) and feed it into Audacity and see what comes out when its high-passed.
 
OK, appreciate you taking time out to give me the heads up :)

I'd just caution about the peak power requirements of the tweeter amp. Have a read of the article 'The Peak Power Demands of Well-recorded Music' on this page: CordellAudio.com - Home Entertainment Show 2007

In terms of average power then the amp you've chosen for the tweeters looks fine, I'm just a bit concerned you'll clip it on transients. I'm going to get Bob Cordell's torture track (Ricky Lee Jones) and feed it into Audacity and see what comes out when its high-passed.


After reading your described test earlier in this thread I was going to try it out this weekend with a few tracks and maybe also try to put some movies through the same test. I have been unable to get to the bottom of the power requirements for tweeters for HT vs music. I think for HT the high freq transient may be higher than for music, this is just a hunch though, with your test I can check for sure!

I am a touch concerned about the 8W thing, with an 8ohm tweeter I wouldn't be concerned at all though.

Given my current living arrangement I am very unlikely to get to a volume that's going to get near to clipping on the tweeter.

If I am planning on really having a LOUD session, because its all active I can connect the 100W from nxv203 aussie amps to tweeters and give up a bit of noise performance for power (though I'll have to attenuate tweeter volume in the crossover).

There was some discussion recently on another forum about power requirements for tweeter in active speaker recently and after that I came to the conclusion that I was close enough and that I'd look into it further for educational purposes.
 
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But then again listening to the Rotels against the Mark Levinsons mine sounded a bit flat

you might have a long, difficult and expencive journey in front of you :D

but at double the price plus you would want to hear some kind of difference.

I wonder if Holton's amps got a fair chance, or dumped a bit too fast
at your price level, they could be built like a Krell or ML
but still more specificly designed/built for your project
if price is of little concern, Holton have what it takes to put together a very fine active system
I would definately give it a second chance
 
We tested my Rotel on a different day to the Aussie, MV and a couple of well put together tube amps.

Don't get me wrong the Aussie amps certainly didn't embarrass itself, it was just in the company of some other better amplifiers.

Perhaps if I had brought along my Rotel that day I might have a different opinion in a head to head comparison.
 
Thanks qusp I will do shortly (need to get some food into me fairly soonish)
Haven't changed anything, haven't even turned it on yet...

got the PM, you were supposed to send me your email addy so I could forward it on hehe.

yeah I figured you hadnt turned them on, but I noticed the XOs have options for buying them with the standard opamps in the analogue stages/filters, or upgrading them (at quite significant cost I might add) My choice would be the AD8620, but maybe your one comes standard with all the upgrades or discrete? I didnt check it out closely, only looked at the diy modules in any detail
 
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Don't recall seeing an upgrade option where are you looking?

All I can see is this in the descriptions...

Digital to Analogue Converter - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
After all the processing in the DSP the data enters the 4 dual Digital to Analogue converters equals 8 output channels. If the software setup is made correctly the signal will have maximum possible resolution and the absolute best performance is achieved all through the DAC and the following I/V and low-pass section. The I/V and low-pass section features high grade OP-amps from latest generation of National Semiconductor’s specialized audio OP-amp range.

Output relays - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
All the balanced outputs are muted by fully sealed high reliability signal relays. In front of the relays are fully balanced output buffers ensuring optimum conditions for the volume circuit and giving low output impedance for best drive capability for the connected power amplifiers. The output buffer uses the same National Semiconductor OP-Amp type as the DAC section.

and the question was asked earlier about the balanced outputs...

Balanced Outputs - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The Neutrik gold plated 3-pol male XLR outputs connectors connect the true balanced signals to the power amplifiers of your choice making high audio performance possible. If the connected amplifier only has RCA input connectors, you will have to use an adapter or XLR to RCA cable.
Note that the inverting pin 3 is NOT allowed to be shorted to ground (shield).
 
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