The board is here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=320-313
Would it be possible to make a plug-n-play 6-8 channel amp using these boards and a single PS? What PS would be required to effect that?
That board looks interesting to me because it seems to be capable of a genuine 100W into 8Ω.
Or is a multichannel amp simply not a project for an electronics novice, even if using prefab boards?
Would it be possible to make a plug-n-play 6-8 channel amp using these boards and a single PS? What PS would be required to effect that?
That board looks interesting to me because it seems to be capable of a genuine 100W into 8Ω.
Or is a multichannel amp simply not a project for an electronics novice, even if using prefab boards?
I would use the L15D-L20-L25D boards from LJM if I was you. Reasons why...
1. Price is about half for given channel
2. Easier to use as they are single channel modules (sold in pairs)
3. Better quality, SURE boards have had their issues, the general idea here is that LJM is superior to SURE. I am sure LJM will chime in here and prove that fact.
4. Better support in this community from LJM and others, VS SURE that might not reply to your request.
I am going to choose either ljm_ljm or hien.t.nguyen design. I feel ljm_ljm is a proven design here. I also feel that the hien.t.nguyen design offers better features however it is a new design. I am planning a multichannel design myself. I am a diy amplifier virgin, however I have an electronics engineering degree and can manage such a project, I have no real diy amplifier experience. I am a car / home stereo buff and have a 2100W car stereo, with a 8 speaker (20 driver) home theatre
Check them out
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/207081-power-amplifier-power-supply-full-pwm.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/191739-my-design-l20d-irs2092-irfi4020h-200w8r.html
1. Price is about half for given channel
2. Easier to use as they are single channel modules (sold in pairs)
3. Better quality, SURE boards have had their issues, the general idea here is that LJM is superior to SURE. I am sure LJM will chime in here and prove that fact.
4. Better support in this community from LJM and others, VS SURE that might not reply to your request.
I am going to choose either ljm_ljm or hien.t.nguyen design. I feel ljm_ljm is a proven design here. I also feel that the hien.t.nguyen design offers better features however it is a new design. I am planning a multichannel design myself. I am a diy amplifier virgin, however I have an electronics engineering degree and can manage such a project, I have no real diy amplifier experience. I am a car / home stereo buff and have a 2100W car stereo, with a 8 speaker (20 driver) home theatre
Check them out
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/207081-power-amplifier-power-supply-full-pwm.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/191739-my-design-l20d-irs2092-irfi4020h-200w8r.html
Nothing that would interest this forum, honestly, as it's a gigantic and not particularly modern or energy-efficient thing: Sherwood Newcastle A-965. Eighty lbs of seven-channel class AB boat anchor. It doesn't even have a modern SMPS, but rather dual transformers to collectively feed the seven mono amps. I'll likely only be using six channels, though if I can get away with it I might power my high-mounted sub off of channel 7. (Surrounds I'll just drive from my Anthem AVR.)
But it has a 12V trigger on, so it won't be wasting much power when not in use, a very minimal-looking faceplate, and it was basically silent when I hooked an Eminence APT tweeter on a small square Eminence horn (not hifi, but compact and very sensitive, and thus good for rejecting noisy amps) to each amp channel, with my iPhone as the source to each RCA input.. Yes, it's a lot less efficient than a class D amp would be, and much larger than any class D amp of similar power, but it's proven and carries OSHA electrical safety certification (UL).
Though I would have preferred a class D amp for energy efficiency, this one meets all of my current and likely future needs.
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I can't help but wonder how good the quality could be at such low prices.
So cheap that maybe the way to peace of mind is to buy extras for spares.
you are correct - Sure and LJM are cheap, you still need a PSU and other bits, thats the art of DIY. I would still buy any of those brands due to me being capable of repair. if you are looking for a return policy go to best buy and pay retail. I prefer to blaze a trail and do the diy thing. Lots of confidence in me doing it with no warranty vs some kid or machine in china making it, traveling a million miles to a store, then paying retail to get a warranty
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