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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 9th May 2012, 06:31 PM   #41
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Default No problems at about 20 hours

The oil I bought was in one gallons, "food grade mineral oil", cost about $16 per gallon. My first trial is in a "Hefty" tote (plastic storage bin) with motherboard, PSU (the one I modded to be fanless) and (yes!) the HDD in the bottom of the bin, covered with enough oil to cover the heat sinks of both the PSU and the CPU. I used 3 gallons to reach that depth. My first idea was to put the whole tower case under the oil, but it is easier to disconnect the guts and have them dangle or lie as needed

My next revision will probably be like this: Optionally, find a smaller plastic bin, wash and dry the existing oily components, then glue (hot glue?) them to the bottom of the bin. Also, I need to find a good solution for permanently mounting the USB/headphone and the power/reset switch plates, as well as things that should remain dry like the DVD drive or perhaps the HDD.

At T=18 hours, the temps are well within spec. The BIOS CPU temp reports about 58C, less for system. To the touch, the oil is pleasantly warm. Since the oil is the main heat sink, I conclude everything is staying cooled.

Unlike some folks, I found it necessary to disconnect all fans, even though my only running fan was the cpu cooler in the oil. The HDD was touching the plastic bin and much drive noise was heard. Currently I am trying the simple mod of wrapping the drive (3.5" SATA) in regular bubble wrap and secured that with two rubber bands. It's a lot quieter, but will have to wait for night time to hear how successful.

My system is hardly a gamer's system: I put the "Kill-a-Watt" (usage meter) on the PSU plug and I am drawing about 70 watts. So not a nuclear reactor here.
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Old 12th May 2012, 06:44 AM   #42
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behringer nu6000 internal photo
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Old 12th May 2012, 06:49 AM   #43
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Old 12th May 2012, 04:55 PM   #44
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Where are the heatsinks?

I have confirmed advice that one should not put hard disks in mineral oil. I will use a cheap SSD for next build. Oops!
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Old 12th May 2012, 05:02 PM   #45
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What happened? I thought that harddiscs were airtight?

But now as I think of it, there is in fact some ventilation valve, often like
a small foam filter....
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Old 13th May 2012, 01:37 AM   #46
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I thought so too. If I had researched more on the Internet, the advice is to not do it. Appears they are not air tight.
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Old 13th May 2012, 03:45 AM   #47
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Looks like the power devices on the nu6000 have V shape clips on them though I can't really see the power devices themselves .

Is this a bridged output for each channel? AND TWO fans !
Must be noisy as Hell !
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Old 13th May 2012, 10:40 AM   #48
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this amp chesis is aluminiam
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Old 13th May 2012, 12:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashok View Post
Is this a bridged output for each channel? AND TWO fans !
Must be noisy as Hell !
I don't know if it is bridged, but its possible as I can see four output filter coils in the picture. A bridge class d amp is an amp straight out of hell, half the rise time, four times the power (in theory) and, most importantly, if you have the guts and a well built amp, you can get rid of the obligatory class D low pass output filter and all the distortion that these filters causes.

I have my suspisions regarding the famous 130 000 dollar Steinway-Lyngdorf Mod D system, that it uses bridged class d amps....

Two nexus fans will be a good remedy against noise......
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Old 13th May 2012, 03:46 PM   #50
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Default Tell me more about bridged Class D

I would like to know more about the claim that bridged does not require the output filter. I thought this was required to restore the analog waveform and also to reduce RF noise. You want an audio amp, not a shortwave transmitter

Cooling: you could (maybe!) submerge the amp in a vat of mineral oil. Offer void if a hard drive is in the unit.
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