Behringer iNuke NU3000 w/o any fan...? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 24th February 2012, 03:14 AM   #11
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You can build an expanding shroud for a 120 mm or 140 mm 12VDC fan meant for quiet PC use. I guarantee you will not hear a good one when the music is playing.
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Old 13th March 2012, 12:26 PM   #12
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I use a iNuke 3000DSP (modified with Nexus Low Noise fans) to drive a pair of bass dipoles with four Peerless 12"/channel. It holds the voice coils in a very firm grip, and it's the best amp I've tried so far! Its wonderful to be able to experiment with the built in crossover and equalizer in real time. The living room bass setup is very quickly done, using Holm for measurements.

But I've noticed, when I play illegally high, that the power meters indicate that the amp is near to its output limit. I wonder if its possible to add some capacitors across the power supply voltage to increase the short term power output on my iNuke3000?
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Old 13th March 2012, 01:09 PM   #13
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Default nu3000

This a little off topic but since you are all looking at the insides of the nu3000 ,can anyone say if the psu can be switched for 230 v operation ( from 120V ) ? Or does it look like everything in the psu section is going to be different ?
I've seen some smps circuits where they just seem to operate a jumper to convert from 120 to 240 V. Unless of course I misunderstood what they had done !
I saw the video on youtube but couldn't see any 'simple' method by which the supply could be switched for higher voltage operation.
Thanks.
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Old 14th March 2012, 05:12 PM   #14
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Default Update for anyone who might be interested.

Behringer wrote back saying that you can't change smps mains operation voltage easily......maybe that means you "cannot" change it ! They said use a step down transformer at the mains input for 230V operation of a unit set for 120 V.

Hmm ! ......I wish it had been easier than that. Maybe there is an easier way ! Buy from Amazon.de rather than Amazon.com ! Discovered that only yesterday .
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Old 14th March 2012, 11:17 PM   #15
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My old Crown CE4000 amps would run on anyhting from 100v to 240v. No switches, no changes, just hook it up and it runs. A bit more output capability running on higher-voltages, I ran 220v mostly because I got to use smaller-guage power cords.
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Old 16th March 2012, 03:13 AM   #16
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Many electronic items, at least those sold in the USA, are not multi-voltage. On the other hand, some consumer items such as notebook PCs are often auto-voltage, even since the 1990s. Probably, a manufacturer deliberately makes an item single voltage to discourage "gray market" (e.g. Stax headphones, at least currently, are not adaptable voltage); also, as streamlined as production must be, a Co. like Behringer probably saves a dollar in parts that would otherwise make a unit multi-voltage. Would be an interesting DIY project to see what (if anything) can be changed to adapt (say) a NU3000 from USA to other voltage.

"I don't know what the world may need but some words of wisdom would comfort it,
I think I'll leave that up to someone wiser..." Cracker, "Teen Angst"
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Old 29th April 2012, 01:54 AM   #17
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I finally had my first shut down with the fanless NU3000 (2nd specimen I have modified). I was listening to some very bass heavy music and one channel turned to "red" from the default "Behringer orange." I shut the amp down for several seconds and then back on (reboot?) and everything is fine since. No way to tell the cause but thermal is a good guess. Surprising it reset so quickly.
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Old 29th April 2012, 05:44 AM   #18
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This cycling through 'thermal cut off' might drastically reduce lifetime of some components ?
At least a fan when it starts turning reasonably warm might be better. As you say it was playing loud and so you really can't hear the fan.
Maybe the fan should work with an spl sensor too. During the quiet parts it shuts off or turns real slow if the unit is still hot ! Might give a few extra years of life ?
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Old 30th April 2012, 04:33 PM   #19
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You make a good point. Somewhere else, someone said that the MOSFET (HEXFET here) has a service life due to the heating and cooling cycles. So this may be a problem even with a stock unit. I am not sure how cheap the HEXFETs are, but maybe people should replace them before they fail (like we do with electrolytic capacitors)?
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Old 1st May 2012, 05:01 AM   #20
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I've just got my nu3000dsp . The fan is VERY noisy ! Not acceptable at all in a home environment . Additionally it whines a bit and that makes it more obstrusive. I opened it up and found the power transistors have a u shaped metal tab soldered to them. They are real thin in guage and are chromed. I hope they are copper but didn't seem to have the pure copper look at places where it is scraped off.
The most effective passive heatsink would have to be attached to the vertical section that rises from the board. It would probably have to be finned to be most effective. I'll check the market to see what can be obtained to suit the location. Maybe a thick aluminum or copper strip attached to a finned setup.

What other parts get hot on the board ?

Even with a quieter fan it might be better if it doesn't run at normal listening levels. It can turn on progressively as the heat build up at high volume.
Is that a 12 V fan and does it have variable speed ?

So far the amp sounds nice. There is some hiss at the tweeter from about 6 inches away from the driver but none at my listening position 12 feet away.
Bass as in most class D amps I have heard is very clear cut. HF might not be like on a regular class A/AB amp. Need to do more listening tests after more burn in. But should be fine for a sub / upper bass which is why I bought it.
Voice sounds good too.

Haven't tried any DSP settings yet.

Any way to shut off those orange lights. It's too bright in a living room.

Does anyone know if the standard nu3000 sounds better than a nu3000dsp without the dsp circuit in the signal path ?
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Last edited by ashok; 1st May 2012 at 05:07 AM.
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