No problems at about 20 hours
The oil I bought was in one gallons, "food grade mineral oil", cost about $16 per gallon. My first trial is in a "Hefty" tote (plastic storage bin) with motherboard, PSU (the one I modded to be fanless) and (yes!) the HDD in the bottom of the bin, covered with enough oil to cover the heat sinks of both the PSU and the CPU. I used 3 gallons to reach that depth. My first idea was to put the whole tower case under the oil, but it is easier to disconnect the guts and have them dangle or lie as needed
My next revision will probably be like this: Optionally, find a smaller plastic bin, wash and dry the existing oily components, then glue (hot glue?) them to the bottom of the bin. Also, I need to find a good solution for permanently mounting the USB/headphone and the power/reset switch plates, as well as things that should remain dry like the DVD drive or perhaps the HDD.
At T=18 hours, the temps are well within spec. The BIOS CPU temp reports about 58C, less for system. To the touch, the oil is pleasantly warm. Since the oil is the main heat sink, I conclude everything is staying cooled.
Unlike some folks, I found it necessary to disconnect all fans, even though my only running fan was the cpu cooler in the oil. The HDD was touching the plastic bin and much drive noise was heard. Currently I am trying the simple mod of wrapping the drive (3.5" SATA) in regular bubble wrap and secured that with two rubber bands. It's a lot quieter, but will have to wait for night time to hear how successful.
My system is hardly a gamer's system: I put the "Kill-a-Watt" (usage meter) on the PSU plug and I am drawing about 70 watts. So not a nuclear reactor here.
The oil I bought was in one gallons, "food grade mineral oil", cost about $16 per gallon. My first trial is in a "Hefty" tote (plastic storage bin) with motherboard, PSU (the one I modded to be fanless) and (yes!) the HDD in the bottom of the bin, covered with enough oil to cover the heat sinks of both the PSU and the CPU. I used 3 gallons to reach that depth. My first idea was to put the whole tower case under the oil, but it is easier to disconnect the guts and have them dangle or lie as needed
My next revision will probably be like this: Optionally, find a smaller plastic bin, wash and dry the existing oily components, then glue (hot glue?) them to the bottom of the bin. Also, I need to find a good solution for permanently mounting the USB/headphone and the power/reset switch plates, as well as things that should remain dry like the DVD drive or perhaps the HDD.
At T=18 hours, the temps are well within spec. The BIOS CPU temp reports about 58C, less for system. To the touch, the oil is pleasantly warm. Since the oil is the main heat sink, I conclude everything is staying cooled.
Unlike some folks, I found it necessary to disconnect all fans, even though my only running fan was the cpu cooler in the oil. The HDD was touching the plastic bin and much drive noise was heard. Currently I am trying the simple mod of wrapping the drive (3.5" SATA) in regular bubble wrap and secured that with two rubber bands. It's a lot quieter, but will have to wait for night time to hear how successful.
My system is hardly a gamer's system: I put the "Kill-a-Watt" (usage meter) on the PSU plug and I am drawing about 70 watts. So not a nuclear reactor here.
Is this a bridged output for each channel? AND TWO fans !
Must be noisy as Hell !
I don't know if it is bridged, but it´s possible as I can see four output filter coils in the picture. A bridge class d amp is an amp straight out of hell, half the rise time, four times the power (in theory) and, most importantly, if you have the guts and a well built amp, you can get rid of the obligatory class D low pass output filter and all the distortion that these filters causes.
I have my suspisions regarding the famous 130 000 dollar Steinway-Lyngdorf Mod D system, that it uses bridged class d amps....
Two nexus fans will be a good remedy against noise......
Tell me more about bridged Class D
I would like to know more about the claim that bridged does not require the output filter. I thought this was required to restore the analog waveform and also to reduce RF noise. You want an audio amp, not a shortwave transmitter
Cooling: you could (maybe!) submerge the amp in a vat of mineral oil. Offer void if a hard drive is in the unit.
I would like to know more about the claim that bridged does not require the output filter. I thought this was required to restore the analog waveform and also to reduce RF noise. You want an audio amp, not a shortwave transmitter
Cooling: you could (maybe!) submerge the amp in a vat of mineral oil. Offer void if a hard drive is in the unit.
I would like to know more about the claim that bridged does not require the output filter. I thought this was required to restore the analog waveform and also to reduce RF noise. You want an audio amp, not a shortwave transmitter
Cooling: you could (maybe!) submerge the amp in a vat of mineral oil. Offer void if a hard drive is in the unit.
To give you a hint what I'm experimenting with, look here:
Class D Amplifiers: Fundamentals of Operation and Recent Developments - Maxim
And this: http://www.ti.com/lit/an/sloa023/sloa023.pdf
Of course, you must use very short and shielded cables and preferably build in the amp in the speaker.
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Today (09 November) I was tweaking something unrelated, and while assembling everything, I thought to myself "Why not try with the stock cover on?" The amp works fine, 12+ hours on. After being idle all night, the cover is slightly warm to the touch. Speculation: this may work ok for for my normal use of the NU3000, as a home stereo amp.
I hate the fan noise too, very disturbing unless pumping up the volume enough.
I measured the voltage going to one of the fans and it's at 7.6V
1. Will it make a big difference and be silent enough if I replace these with fans that say to be -7dB ?
2. How low can the voltage be before they stop spinning? I'm thinking of putting in a series of diodes, so the voltage drops at a minimum.
I'm sure my needs for power in the house are far less then PA requires.
I measured the voltage going to one of the fans and it's at 7.6V
1. Will it make a big difference and be silent enough if I replace these with fans that say to be -7dB ?
2. How low can the voltage be before they stop spinning? I'm thinking of putting in a series of diodes, so the voltage drops at a minimum.
I'm sure my needs for power in the house are far less then PA requires.
What do you think of this fan for replacement?:
NOISE BLOCKER MULTIFRAME S1 8CM PC-BLOW. from Conrad Electronic UK
NOISE BLOCKER MULTIFRAME S1 8CM PC-BLOW. from Conrad Electronic UK
In my opinion noiseblocker have the best silent fans available. If you compare rpm/airflow/dba you can't get anything better.
I've built a pc a few years back with 3x noiseblocker S1 fans running them with 5V. Even with 12V they are enbeatable! I would defenitively use NB but as i don't know the inukes i can't say if the airflow what the S1 has is enough. But you can choose NB S1, S2 or S3.
I've built a pc a few years back with 3x noiseblocker S1 fans running them with 5V. Even with 12V they are enbeatable! I would defenitively use NB but as i don't know the inukes i can't say if the airflow what the S1 has is enough. But you can choose NB S1, S2 or S3.
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