Hi Guys,
Anyone used the YDA148 module?
I got one from DealExtreme and it arrived today. Looks a well made little unit, though I looked in vain for any sign of imput caps or where they might fit in the scheme of things. I know nothing so I hardly know what I'm looking for, but it seems to me there should be some provision for them.
I read a couple of raves on the DealExtreme forum and this little module is highly praised. I'll hook it up over the next few days and report back.
Cheers for now, Martin
Anyone used the YDA148 module?
I got one from DealExtreme and it arrived today. Looks a well made little unit, though I looked in vain for any sign of imput caps or where they might fit in the scheme of things. I know nothing so I hardly know what I'm looking for, but it seems to me there should be some provision for them.
I read a couple of raves on the DealExtreme forum and this little module is highly praised. I'll hook it up over the next few days and report back.
Cheers for now, Martin
Well I was looking for a class D board in the 10-20 watt range to build into a very small travel guitar along with a battery pack and speaker. Obviously anything battery powered will benefit from the high efficiency of class D, which also means no heat sync is needed so there is less bulk (and heat) to deal with. What I learned in the process is that there are many such boards available, most at around $10 or less. But I also learned that different boards have different features, as expected, and this one has so far been the winner. This board has some nice features to prevent (or at least limit) clipping distortion, which sounds particularly horrible with class-D, and can damage your speakers. I also found this board worked well doing something you're not supposed to do, unless you re-design the circuit. that is, paralleling the inputs and outputs in order to better drive a lower impedance (4 ohm) speaker, as a single 20W amplifier. I also found it was possible to alter the gain (and anti-clipping ) options, though it requires some very steady hands and good eyes to move / remove the 0-ohm resistors that control this.
But anyway, I'm rambling. My overall review is that this is not that absolute smallest board you can find, nor the absolute lowest quiescent current drain, but it does work well for me.
But anyway, I'm rambling. My overall review is that this is not that absolute smallest board you can find, nor the absolute lowest quiescent current drain, but it does work well for me.
Ok, that's great Peter Pan...
I'm trying to put this board into a very small enclosure, currently trying to squeeze in all the required bits onto the small back panel, all in an effort to make the amp look as finished as possible. It wont be my main amp, I currently have several small Tripath amps from which to choose and most of my tinkering involves swapping these around some as I wait for parts from Ebay to finish the Y148.
I'm hoping for good things from the Y148, it easily looks and feels the best made of all the really tiny d class amp boards out there, and even if it does fall over, it's all part of the diy fun at chump change...what the hobby is all about I guess.
Cheers, Martin
I'm trying to put this board into a very small enclosure, currently trying to squeeze in all the required bits onto the small back panel, all in an effort to make the amp look as finished as possible. It wont be my main amp, I currently have several small Tripath amps from which to choose and most of my tinkering involves swapping these around some as I wait for parts from Ebay to finish the Y148.
I'm hoping for good things from the Y148, it easily looks and feels the best made of all the really tiny d class amp boards out there, and even if it does fall over, it's all part of the diy fun at chump change...what the hobby is all about I guess.
Cheers, Martin
I've made a number of very tiny guitar amps so I feel your pain. There are some smaller boards out the you could look at, like this tiny one on ebay for just around $5.
Mini Amplifier Board 10W+10W Class D Amplifier DC 12V | eBay
If the plan is to amplify processed and likely normalized, limited, and compressed sound, like you'd get from an FM radio or MP3 player, then that might offer an option. If you're plan is to plug in a raw instrument like a guitar though, forget about it and use the Y148 board!
Mini Amplifier Board 10W+10W Class D Amplifier DC 12V | eBay
If the plan is to amplify processed and likely normalized, limited, and compressed sound, like you'd get from an FM radio or MP3 player, then that might offer an option. If you're plan is to plug in a raw instrument like a guitar though, forget about it and use the Y148 board!
Yep, got that one...set it up temporarily, and it sounded quite good.
I'm using my old Adcom CD player through full range Fostex speakers in TQWT enclosures, very efficient, run on the smell of an oily rag type speakers, ideal for my 5w SET tube amp, or my current love affair, the T and D class midgets.
The y148 is just one of a few experiments on how to get the best sound out a handful of watts and as many dollars...
Cheers, Martin
I'm using my old Adcom CD player through full range Fostex speakers in TQWT enclosures, very efficient, run on the smell of an oily rag type speakers, ideal for my 5w SET tube amp, or my current love affair, the T and D class midgets.
The y148 is just one of a few experiments on how to get the best sound out a handful of watts and as many dollars...
Cheers, Martin
I'm still messing with it and in fact intend to use it in at least one project I intend to market. The only mods I've attempted hava already been mentioned, changing the gain setting, and paralleling the inputs (and outputs) to make a mono block. Having messed with the gain settings though, I think I'll leave them unmodified for future use, adding any additional gain with a separate pre-amp. The lower (as shipped) on board gain setting also enables a kind of AGC, that does a good job preventing transient peaks from causing ugly sounding class D distortion. Were I concerned about the output being inverted, I'd add my own separate op-amp inverter stage. For my project, this isn't a problem.
Thanks for posting. To me that ebay item is BS. Kind of like those "1000 watt quad channel" car stereo amps you find in a flea market, that when taken apart reveals a single 20 watt amp chip, with all 4 inputs and outputs joined. The chip is not rated by the manufacturer for that power rating, so its an exaggeration . Who wants to buy from anyone that lies about technical specs.
Plus, for the small convenience you get for having terminal screws over solder connections, is not worth paying 3X more. this link still has the best deal I've seen on a YDA148 based amp, under $10!
Y148 Audio Amplifier Module on Geminideal.com
Plus, for the small convenience you get for having terminal screws over solder connections, is not worth paying 3X more. this link still has the best deal I've seen on a YDA148 based amp, under $10!
Y148 Audio Amplifier Module on Geminideal.com
They are the same specs. Just wondering how good or bad is this amp.
The board I posted I found out yesterday and seems much like this one Goodfortune/ºÃÔËÀ´R7¹¦·Å»ú YDA148 30W*2 ·¢ÉÕ¹¦·Å°å-µçÄÔÓ²¼þ/Öܱß/ÍøÂçÉ豸-µçÄÔ¶àýÌåÒôÏä | Íø¹º-ÅÄÅÄÍø which is also at dx electronics.
The board I posted I found out yesterday and seems much like this one Goodfortune/ºÃÔËÀ´R7¹¦·Å»ú YDA148 30W*2 ·¢ÉÕ¹¦·Å°å-µçÄÔÓ²¼þ/Öܱß/ÍøÂçÉ豸-µçÄÔ¶àýÌåÒôÏä | Íø¹º-ÅÄÅÄÍø which is also at dx electronics.
A little mod I made to this amp, with a great improvement Its to change the input cap with a 4700uf/25v, in my case with a Panasonic FC series that I had around...
I also changed the small aluminum caps with some nichicons same value from the told series, but not much improvement, a little more detail n highs, also maybe changing the inductors with some wurth, but this haven't try yet, someday I might... But changing the 2200uf CAP for a 4700uf one made the biggest improvement..
Ok I will just try the one mod for now, how about a Mundorf M-lytic 4700uf 50v?
EDIT - bit expensive .. will go for a Nichicon http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/nichicon_fg.html
is 16V ok?
EDIT - bit expensive .. will go for a Nichicon http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/nichicon_fg.html
is 16V ok?
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Yeah, a bit expensive... I used a Panasonic from the FC series and made the Job, and Its cheaper... I got it from here site for me the cheapest with the shipping included as they are in Spain... Dont know to UK, but you can always check...
, how important is cap voltage? sorry for the questions- Status
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