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-   -   Throw those bad soldering tips away ! (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/200378-throw-those-bad-soldering-tips-away.html)

nigelwright7557 13th November 2011 01:32 AM

Throw those bad soldering tips away !
 
My soldering tip has been getting a bit worn and not soldering as well recently.
However I continued to use it.
I built up a class d 2092 amp and it immediately fried the 2092.
I couldnt see anything obvious so built up another which immediately did the same thing !

I inspected both and couldnt find anything obvious and I checked every resistor for value and they were ok.

I started to suspect poor chinese pcbs but they looked fine on close inspection.

Anyway after some long and hard inspection with a magnifying glass I spotted two resistors shorted together with the slimmest of solder slivers which poked 45 volts into teh 2092 input pin.
On the other board a transistor looked as if it was soldered but it wasnt making contact with the pcb. I redid the joint and then it was fine.

So for the price (2-99 a set) of a solder tip I lost a couple of hours having to fault find and a piar of irs2092's.. Needless to say I will bin poor performing bits a bit sooner next time.

wintermute 13th November 2011 01:51 AM

Bummer. I never appreciated how much difference a soldering iron makes (not just the tip) until I bought my Hakko. Wished I'd shelled out the money years earlier.

Goes with any tools, its amazing how much quicker and easier everything is with the correct tool for the job.

Good tip Nigel ;)

Tony.

nigelwright7557 13th November 2011 01:59 AM

I havent had that much luck with soldering irons, they dont seem to last long. Had 3 Maplin soldering stations and they all died in the power supply and went through bits very quickly.
My current iron is an Antex which has been pretty good despite only costing 7 and teh bits last a lot longer.

I find it a bit of a juggling act getting the right size bit. If the bit is small enough for IC's then it wont solder lugs on 10,000uF capacitors. Its annoying having to keep changing bit sizes.

djQUAN 13th November 2011 02:08 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by wintermute (Post 2779556)
Bummer. I never appreciated how much difference a soldering iron makes (not just the tip) until I bought my Hakko. Wished I'd shelled out the money years earlier.

Goes with any tools, its amazing how much quicker and easier everything is with the correct tool for the job.

Good tip Nigel ;)

Tony.

exactly the same experience here too. A quality soldering station may cost some money but if you solder a lot (or build many kits) it will pay for itself in no time.

I use the "K" series tip (see attached pic) for my hakko. I find it nice for working on both SMD and large through hole parts just fine. Also great for removing solder bridges with the right technique.

wintermute 13th November 2011 02:16 AM

yes changing bits is a pain (especially if you haven't let them cool down enough :eek: )

My hakko is an 80W temp controlled iron, I've had it now for maybe 8 years (and cost me $199.00) (I probably spent almost that much on cheap irons and tips the previous 15 years leading up to the purchase, and none of them came close to it for performance. Its a lot to spend on a soldering iron (which is why I didn't do so for a long time) but after I did spend it I felt it was worth every cent :)

I'm still using the original bits that came with it. No pitting at all, one though the inner sleeve has come loose and it doesn't transfer heat as well as it used to. All I generally do when soldering something big that sinks a lot of heat is to turn the temp up to about 450 deg and it cruises through :)

edit: interesting bit djQUAN!! looks like it could double as a hot knife too!

Tony.

mp9 13th November 2011 02:30 AM

I'm terrible at soldering, got a Stahl temp controlled iron/station (Weller knock off), made a huge difference:

Stahl Tools TCSS Temp Controlled Soldering Station ESD Safe 374-200

GloBug 13th November 2011 04:41 AM

Just sand the tip down once in a while.

My $30 Weller works fine, with the original tip, it has corroded down to 1/4 of it's original size. lol

The connection between the tip and the gun needs to be reset once in a while, turn it in and out a few times to renew the contact.

For big metal, I bring out the big Weller gun style iron, same thing here, the connections have to be redone once in a while or it does not get hot.

I would like a fancy soldering station too, aside from being adjustable, it's not any "better" as far as how it works.

A new tip won't do anything for a sloppy soldering job, no offence.

I bet you find that removing an old tip and putting it back in pretty much makes it work as new again.

mp9 13th November 2011 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GloBug (Post 2779640)
I would like a fancy soldering station too, aside from being adjustable, it's not any "better" as far as how it works.

...that wasn't my experience, i tried a pencil stick Weller from Lowes and couldn't keep the solder flowing because it was always to hot or to cold. For me the temp controller regulator helped tremendously there.

ljm_ljm 13th November 2011 10:52 AM

We must have a 936 type of temperature control soldering pen.

It consists of DC low voltage driver fever. Won't produce static.

A quality medium 936 soldering pen is about 150 RMB. About 25 USD.

simon7000 13th November 2011 03:09 PM

I bought a $3 eBay made in China soldering iron just for big joints. It gets way too hot for normal use and I suspect will not last very long if really used often.

For the always on iron I used to use a diode in series with the AC line. It drops the temperature enough that the tip lasts a long time and it is still warm enough to solder properly.

The way you know you have the right temperature is when it takes 3 seconds per joint. Less and you are too hot, more too cool for words!

Be sure you know the difference between a constant temperature and a variable temperature soldering station. Both can be useful, but constant temperature requires less skill.


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