I bought a topping tp 22, based on the TK2050. It sounds ok, quite for such a litte amp. But I think/guess that it could be improved.
I read some stories about improving tp20/tp21 by changing caps in input/output circuit, but I am not sure which ones I should alter in this case.
Could anyone indicate which caps I can alter, also which kind of caps and values?
A picture of the board:
Thanks in advance!
I read some stories about improving tp20/tp21 by changing caps in input/output circuit, but I am not sure which ones I should alter in this case.
Could anyone indicate which caps I can alter, also which kind of caps and values?
A picture of the board:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks in advance!
I will try the diffrent power supply, who knows what the effect might be.
For the caps: I will read some more to find out if I can determine which caps to improve/replace.
I see a 317 on the board, and some caps there, replacing these with higher values could be a start.
How do I know what value I could try?
For the caps: I will read some more to find out if I can determine which caps to improve/replace.
I see a 317 on the board, and some caps there, replacing these with higher values could be a start.
How do I know what value I could try?
Speaking as a former electronics technician and designer, none of the mods you are proposing will have any audible effect.
The power requirement (power = volts x amps) is determined by how loud the volume is and the speaker impedance (4 ohm requires more current). You could supply a higher voltage, but only at the risk of exceeding the components' design limits - seriously not recommended.
Changing the input coupling capacitor is highly unlikely to make any difference. Its value will have been chosen according to the input impedance of the op amp and any resistive load in parallel with that. It could possibly improve the bass response to have a higher value, but only if the designer couldn't use a calculator to save himself and chose a ridiculously low value to start with. Not very likely.
Best to just enjoy the music, or if you want to change the 'sound' - change your speakers, which being electromechanical are the source of all kinds of sound colouration and distortion.
The power requirement (power = volts x amps) is determined by how loud the volume is and the speaker impedance (4 ohm requires more current). You could supply a higher voltage, but only at the risk of exceeding the components' design limits - seriously not recommended.
Changing the input coupling capacitor is highly unlikely to make any difference. Its value will have been chosen according to the input impedance of the op amp and any resistive load in parallel with that. It could possibly improve the bass response to have a higher value, but only if the designer couldn't use a calculator to save himself and chose a ridiculously low value to start with. Not very likely.
Best to just enjoy the music, or if you want to change the 'sound' - change your speakers, which being electromechanical are the source of all kinds of sound colouration and distortion.
Ok, seems there is not much to do then with this amp. I read a lot of articles where caps were replaced to have a better bass.
When I compare this amp to my yaqin-mc10l it sounds thin, clear, but less "fat".
The soundstage is also more flat, so switched back to the tubes amp after a while. Still love it
I did try the other powersupply, that did not make any difference.
When I compare this amp to my yaqin-mc10l it sounds thin, clear, but less "fat".
The soundstage is also more flat, so switched back to the tubes amp after a while. Still love it
I did try the other powersupply, that did not make any difference.
4A is enough for 20V,
* You can have some gain in power changing for an 25-27V (6A+) PSU. I wouldn't go anything higher than that. Heat sink is too small, and some capacitors are rated 25V. They might be for TC2000 5V feed anyway, but I'm not sure which layout topping has implemented. Anyway some circuits are projected for use with 20v like the Speaker relay, protection circuits, input gain... 25-27V max is ok. Connexelectronic has a great PSU with 28V and 10A, SMPS 300R.
They use almost same kind of capacitors for everything ranging from 25-50V.
* Anyway I guess both yellow in the middle (220uF 50/35V) are for VCC output bypass with is fine. You can change them for a higher grade one like Nichicon KZ/FG/KA/KW. Range from 35-63V, You will need something with 10mm max Diameter and 20mm high.
* I think both 47uF /50V are for feeding the 5V regulator with the VCC, I would use 100uF from 35-63V. Some ELNA Silmic II, Cerafine or Nichicon KZ/FG/KW or KA would be great. Mas 8 x 20mm
* The big 330uF /25V blue Panasonics are probably for VCC Supply to TP2050, and you obviously want bigger caps and higher rated there. Try something from 470-1000uF 35/50V from ELNA Silmic II, Cerafine or Nichicon KZ/FG/KA or KW.
* Them change all the small 5mm 220 and 100uF 25V capacitors for same capacitance but Nichicon KA or KW and rated 35 - 50V.
* Them change the stock MKT input caps for some Wima MKP10 2.2UF 250V.
You will have a much better amp them.
Not an expensive deal also.
* You can have some gain in power changing for an 25-27V (6A+) PSU. I wouldn't go anything higher than that. Heat sink is too small, and some capacitors are rated 25V. They might be for TC2000 5V feed anyway, but I'm not sure which layout topping has implemented. Anyway some circuits are projected for use with 20v like the Speaker relay, protection circuits, input gain... 25-27V max is ok. Connexelectronic has a great PSU with 28V and 10A, SMPS 300R.
They use almost same kind of capacitors for everything ranging from 25-50V.
* Anyway I guess both yellow in the middle (220uF 50/35V) are for VCC output bypass with is fine. You can change them for a higher grade one like Nichicon KZ/FG/KA/KW. Range from 35-63V, You will need something with 10mm max Diameter and 20mm high.
* I think both 47uF /50V are for feeding the 5V regulator with the VCC, I would use 100uF from 35-63V. Some ELNA Silmic II, Cerafine or Nichicon KZ/FG/KW or KA would be great. Mas 8 x 20mm
* The big 330uF /25V blue Panasonics are probably for VCC Supply to TP2050, and you obviously want bigger caps and higher rated there. Try something from 470-1000uF 35/50V from ELNA Silmic II, Cerafine or Nichicon KZ/FG/KA or KW.
* Them change all the small 5mm 220 and 100uF 25V capacitors for same capacitance but Nichicon KA or KW and rated 35 - 50V.
* Them change the stock MKT input caps for some Wima MKP10 2.2UF 250V.
You will have a much better amp them.
Not an expensive deal also.
Hi !
Sorry if i´m off topic ; I own a pair of B&W 602(S2) which i use basically for mixing and mastering in a well treated room at moderate levels. I bought an used Rotel 970 amp but I don´t think it´s a clean amp (or it has something to do with the "age" - 1994, maybe, I don´t know).
Would be this Topping TP22 a good choice in my case?
Thanks a lot!
Ciro
Sorry if i´m off topic ; I own a pair of B&W 602(S2) which i use basically for mixing and mastering in a well treated room at moderate levels. I bought an used Rotel 970 amp but I don´t think it´s a clean amp (or it has something to do with the "age" - 1994, maybe, I don´t know).
Would be this Topping TP22 a good choice in my case?
Thanks a lot!
Ciro
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I found information that exceeding power supply voltage over 20V isn't good idea and may cause amplifier damage. As I recall it was on some forum, but I can't find it now.
I didn't want to risk, so I did linear power supply as follows.
I had 170VA 2x14V 6A (14.9V measured) transformer, so I used both windings and made full wave, two diode rectifier. I choose Schottky diodes because I wanted to avoid to much voltage drop. After the diodes I put 5x1000uF capacitors in series which I already had. That's it. No magic or rocket science here. My power supply has 20.3V (measured) and works fine.
Now my Topping sound much better in every aspect. Sound is much clearer, with better resolution and better defined soundstage. Highs are also much better. For me there is no back to stock SMPS power supply.
I didn't want to risk, so I did linear power supply as follows.
I had 170VA 2x14V 6A (14.9V measured) transformer, so I used both windings and made full wave, two diode rectifier. I choose Schottky diodes because I wanted to avoid to much voltage drop. After the diodes I put 5x1000uF capacitors in series which I already had. That's it. No magic or rocket science here. My power supply has 20.3V (measured) and works fine.
Now my Topping sound much better in every aspect. Sound is much clearer, with better resolution and better defined soundstage. Highs are also much better. For me there is no back to stock SMPS power supply.
Of course you are right.
All we know that clean power supply is audiophile myth and has nothing to do with sound quality.
KingRex Power Supplies
All we know that clean power supply is audiophile myth and has nothing to do with sound quality.
KingRex Power Supplies
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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