I think a number of posters have tried very clearly to explain to you why what you propose will not work, once you understand and accept this then you can come up with a workable solution. It is up to you to understand and accept that message.
See above
TWO Crossovers ----> You run the two Tweeters out the (2) highs the two midranges out of the (2) mids and the one DVC woofer out of the (2) woofer outputs [one output to each coil].
WTF ? Yes. The impedance is wrong. Yes. the drivers are mismatched. But it is the best solution for this situation.
JV
Hi,
You don't know that at all. And in any world it isn't.
At minimum L-pads need adding to the M's and T's,
which would give it a chance of working in a fashion.
rgds, sreten.
Hi Sreten.
Thanks so much. Let me try and answer.
1). Battery life should between-5-8 hrs.
2). Volume should be similiar to a loud car stereo.
3). I bought a 10in woofer. I would love to have decent bass.
4). Not sure about form factor.
5). Check out this link below. This is what I am shooting for.
The BoomCase? by Mr. Simo | Vintage Suitcase BoomBoxes
Also...here is what I have bought thus far:
Ultimately I want to power the following;
1 10in Sub:
Specs: Power handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max • VCdia: 1.5" • Le:
1.12 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms per coil / 4 ohms total • Re: 3.16 ohms
Dayton Audio SD270A-88 10" DVC Subwoofer
1 pair of mids:
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Specifications: • Power handling: 100 watts RMS/200 watts max • Impedance:
8 ohms • Frequency response: 450-7,000 Hz •
1 pair of tweets:
Boss Bullet tweeters
Boss Audio TW30 Tweeters at Onlinecarstereo.com
* Power handling, peak: 150w
* Magnet structure: strontium
* Impedance: 4ohm
* Frequency response: 2-25kHz
Thanks so much. Let me try and answer.
1). Battery life should between-5-8 hrs.
2). Volume should be similiar to a loud car stereo.
3). I bought a 10in woofer. I would love to have decent bass.
4). Not sure about form factor.
5). Check out this link below. This is what I am shooting for.
The BoomCase? by Mr. Simo | Vintage Suitcase BoomBoxes
Also...here is what I have bought thus far:
Ultimately I want to power the following;
1 10in Sub:
Specs: Power handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max • VCdia: 1.5" • Le:
1.12 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms per coil / 4 ohms total • Re: 3.16 ohms
Dayton Audio SD270A-88 10" DVC Subwoofer
1 pair of mids:
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Specifications: • Power handling: 100 watts RMS/200 watts max • Impedance:
8 ohms • Frequency response: 450-7,000 Hz •
1 pair of tweets:
Boss Bullet tweeters
Boss Audio TW30 Tweeters at Onlinecarstereo.com
* Power handling, peak: 150w
* Magnet structure: strontium
* Impedance: 4ohm
* Frequency response: 2-25kHz
You've got to understand that you're up against some real physical limitations here, and what you're asking for is a combination that violates the laws of physics.
Get an Amp6 or other 2020 Tripath amp and hook it up to one of the 12v lead acid batteries recommended earlier, along with some crossovers (try to get some that match the ohm ratings of the various drivers if you can) and the speakers you have. You will get sound, but you're talking at best, 15 clean watts, which with the right box and highly efficient speakers, will pound out a lot of sound. However, you've got a problem becuse you have large speakers in a small box, which is not a good recipe for good bass or efficiency. Size of the enclosure is a critical parameter for good speaker design, and if you make it too small (or have the speakers too big), there will be problems, especially reduced bass output. Plus that suitcase will be much less rigid than a conventional box, which will absorb a lot of the bass. So you're never going to get to the volume of a loud car stereo with that combo. Just won't happen.
Also, with 12v, that 15 watts (at 4 ohms) is the limit no matter what amp you use, and going to 24v takes money and space, which makes the box even smaller inside, and will make the battery life even shorter.
It sounds like you're past the point of no return on this project, so you don't have much choice other than to hook it all up and see what you get. The L-pads somebody suggested is probably a good idea, or maybe just experiment with some 1 to 8 ohm resistors to drop the level of the tweeters and mids. Do what you can to make the suitcase as stiff as you possibly can by adding as much internal bracing as you can manage, as that should make a difference and at least give you a less flabby sound.
But then when I think about my audio quality standards in college (and now it's MP3s not LPs), well, the cool form factor should take away the sting of less than spectacular sound. Let us know how it turns out
--Buckapound
Get an Amp6 or other 2020 Tripath amp and hook it up to one of the 12v lead acid batteries recommended earlier, along with some crossovers (try to get some that match the ohm ratings of the various drivers if you can) and the speakers you have. You will get sound, but you're talking at best, 15 clean watts, which with the right box and highly efficient speakers, will pound out a lot of sound. However, you've got a problem becuse you have large speakers in a small box, which is not a good recipe for good bass or efficiency. Size of the enclosure is a critical parameter for good speaker design, and if you make it too small (or have the speakers too big), there will be problems, especially reduced bass output. Plus that suitcase will be much less rigid than a conventional box, which will absorb a lot of the bass. So you're never going to get to the volume of a loud car stereo with that combo. Just won't happen.
Also, with 12v, that 15 watts (at 4 ohms) is the limit no matter what amp you use, and going to 24v takes money and space, which makes the box even smaller inside, and will make the battery life even shorter.
It sounds like you're past the point of no return on this project, so you don't have much choice other than to hook it all up and see what you get. The L-pads somebody suggested is probably a good idea, or maybe just experiment with some 1 to 8 ohm resistors to drop the level of the tweeters and mids. Do what you can to make the suitcase as stiff as you possibly can by adding as much internal bracing as you can manage, as that should make a difference and at least give you a less flabby sound.
But then when I think about my audio quality standards in college (and now it's MP3s not LPs), well, the cool form factor should take away the sting of less than spectacular sound. Let us know how it turns out
--Buckapound
Jimmer,
Sounds like a great idea. I too like things out of the ordinary and this looks right up my alley.
It would have been nice if you were able to come here sooner and get started out on the right path. I can't help with the amp or battery part and I am limited in the speakers but what you have purchased is going to make it hard. The parts just dont match up. I am wondering if it's time to rethink this and perhaps consider starting from scratch. I think what you need for something like this are a couple of decent inexpensive full range drivers like the Pioneer B20's. I'm not much of a FR kind of guy but these seem ready made for your situation. No XO's, no matching, just plug and play.
Can you take a step back and restart this? Your life would be so much less complicated, trust me.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-045
Sounds like a great idea. I too like things out of the ordinary and this looks right up my alley.
It would have been nice if you were able to come here sooner and get started out on the right path. I can't help with the amp or battery part and I am limited in the speakers but what you have purchased is going to make it hard. The parts just dont match up. I am wondering if it's time to rethink this and perhaps consider starting from scratch. I think what you need for something like this are a couple of decent inexpensive full range drivers like the Pioneer B20's. I'm not much of a FR kind of guy but these seem ready made for your situation. No XO's, no matching, just plug and play.
Can you take a step back and restart this? Your life would be so much less complicated, trust me.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-045
Jimmer.Don't be intimidated here.It will work OK, The Subwoofer that has already been selected needs but Two and a quarter sealed cubic feet behind it. Selecting a suitcase of that size is no problem......The biggie is getting it to be "solid".you may have to build an enclosure (Wood), that fits tightly inside the suitcase. One really can't reinforce an existing suitcase, so that it doesn't "fail" as a proper enclosure.
Is THIS what you had in mind??
_____________________________________________________Rick.........
Is THIS what you had in mind??
_____________________________________________________Rick.........
Attachments
This is great info guys. But I need to know what to buy...
1). Crossover?
2). Battery
3). Amplifier
I am looking for a definitive answer on this. Sreten was going to chime in once he read what I had thus far. maybe you guys can take a look. See below.
1 10in Sub:
Specs: Power handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max • VCdia: 1.5" • Le:
1.12 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms per coil / 4 ohms total • Re: 3.16 ohms
Dayton Audio SD270A-88 10" DVC Subwoofer
1 pair of mids:
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Specifications: • Power handling: 100 watts RMS/200 watts max • Impedance:
8 ohms • Frequency response: 450-7,000 Hz •
1 pair of tweets:
Boss Bullet tweeters
Boss Audio TW30 Tweeters at Onlinecarstereo.com
* Power handling, peak: 150w
* Magnet structure: strontium
* Impedance: 4ohm
* Frequency response: 2-25kHz
1). Crossover?
2). Battery
3). Amplifier
I am looking for a definitive answer on this. Sreten was going to chime in once he read what I had thus far. maybe you guys can take a look. See below.
1 10in Sub:
Specs: Power handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max • VCdia: 1.5" • Le:
1.12 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms per coil / 4 ohms total • Re: 3.16 ohms
Dayton Audio SD270A-88 10" DVC Subwoofer
1 pair of mids:
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Pyle Pro PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Midrange
Specifications: • Power handling: 100 watts RMS/200 watts max • Impedance:
8 ohms • Frequency response: 450-7,000 Hz •
1 pair of tweets:
Boss Bullet tweeters
Boss Audio TW30 Tweeters at Onlinecarstereo.com
* Power handling, peak: 150w
* Magnet structure: strontium
* Impedance: 4ohm
* Frequency response: 2-25kHz
OK.as per my little sketch, you could put two sealed lead acid(SLA) batteries flanking the internal enclosure, The size and rating of the batteries will be determined by the suitcase you select. With two set-up like this, it would balance out..weight wise......which can be significant. The problem with the crossover will be the radically differing sensitivities of the select drivers. The subwoofer was like at 88Db, the mid-range at 92, the Tweeters at 100........!!
You could put a seperate amp to "bring up" the level for the woofer. and a second to do the mids and tweeter. Fortunately the tweeter is a four Ohm version & we can just tie in a four ohm wirewound resistor in series to dial back the tweeter....& run in at "Half power". You could get the Parts-express three-way, PN 260-210 at 800 Hz & 5000 Hz.......tack on the four Ohm on the tweeter (Getting it to Eight ohm).this will get closer.........leave the woofer section unused. Run a second amp to the woofer.it will require more power to match up with the other....but we have dual batteries right? The drawing can have the wood structure built as a "T" with the wood extending along the bottom to support the weight of the two batteries. Since the mids...& obvoiusly the tweeters have sealed rear chambers, we are not concerned with any enclosures behind them. The 12V amps at 41 Hz. will do OK.......we would need four channels worth. Is this to be driven with an Ipod or some such device?.......outboard to be plugged in? I would put an "onboard charger for the batteries......so you just plug in a plain ol' powercord to charge it up. Battery charge "life" would be determined obviously by the size(weight) you dare to put in....but realize you won't be running it full-blast 24/7. And there will be a drop-out voltage for the amplifiers. The amps have a real range of voltages they run at.....an upper limit....past which it can be damaged or depending on the circuitry just will shut-down. Conversely there is a "drop-out" voltage....too low & it will stop running. Perhaps 41 Hz. has those figures.
Just a flow of thoughts here.
____________________________________________________Rick........_
You could put a seperate amp to "bring up" the level for the woofer. and a second to do the mids and tweeter. Fortunately the tweeter is a four Ohm version & we can just tie in a four ohm wirewound resistor in series to dial back the tweeter....& run in at "Half power". You could get the Parts-express three-way, PN 260-210 at 800 Hz & 5000 Hz.......tack on the four Ohm on the tweeter (Getting it to Eight ohm).this will get closer.........leave the woofer section unused. Run a second amp to the woofer.it will require more power to match up with the other....but we have dual batteries right? The drawing can have the wood structure built as a "T" with the wood extending along the bottom to support the weight of the two batteries. Since the mids...& obvoiusly the tweeters have sealed rear chambers, we are not concerned with any enclosures behind them. The 12V amps at 41 Hz. will do OK.......we would need four channels worth. Is this to be driven with an Ipod or some such device?.......outboard to be plugged in? I would put an "onboard charger for the batteries......so you just plug in a plain ol' powercord to charge it up. Battery charge "life" would be determined obviously by the size(weight) you dare to put in....but realize you won't be running it full-blast 24/7. And there will be a drop-out voltage for the amplifiers. The amps have a real range of voltages they run at.....an upper limit....past which it can be damaged or depending on the circuitry just will shut-down. Conversely there is a "drop-out" voltage....too low & it will stop running. Perhaps 41 Hz. has those figures.
Just a flow of thoughts here.
____________________________________________________Rick........_
Hi,
Lets get this right - you have bought the Dayton 10" dual coil sub, Yes ?
Well that pretty much IMO determines everything else, if you actually
want to use it, there are arguments you should use it elsewhere.
1) Size :
Practically speaking your talking a 1 to 2 cuft box tuned
between 33Hz and 40Hz, not ideal indoors but fine out.
2)Mid/Treble
All these have to do is intergrate well with the 88dB/W
woofer, noting that its effectively 85dB/W per channel.
The bass drivers upper mid peak means you need
to cross it low, so sealed back mids are out.
Umming and aaing - I'd suggest two of these :
$15 each but no c/o from Speaker Stuff
Put them in 3L sealed, left and right of the sub.
Use the c/o detailed on the page
3)Amplification
I'd suggest using a 4 channel car amplifier with built in active
crossovers to integrate the bass unit to the mid/treble section.
4)Alternatives (simpler and cheaper)
Drop the sub. Use the car audio 6.5", 1" and c/o I linked to earlier.
http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-ZRS-65K...r_Speakers&hash=item45fb7079a6#ht_3498wt_1101
(It has a nice facility to adjust the tweeter levels, easily modded.)
Use the Lepai class T amplifier, battery and charger mentioned before.
Cabinet is a guess, I'd say 1 - 1.5 cuft split between the two, again tuned 33 -40Hz.
If you go for 4) then use the sub with a plate amplifier, in a bigger box vented
and with sattelites, I'd severely suggest : Zaph|Audio - 4" Bargain Mini
not very portable but then again quality never is.
rgds, sreten.
My favourite suitcase system was a suit case which contained two small speakers and a 2.1 amplifier
in foam cutouts. After removing the speakers and amplifier and setting them up the suitcase was now
the sub box, as it had additionally the sub driver internally mounted. Lots of variations of this.
But note it wasn't battery powered and rechargeable, just a quality travelling system.
Lets get this right - you have bought the Dayton 10" dual coil sub, Yes ?
Well that pretty much IMO determines everything else, if you actually
want to use it, there are arguments you should use it elsewhere.
1) Size :
Practically speaking your talking a 1 to 2 cuft box tuned
between 33Hz and 40Hz, not ideal indoors but fine out.
2)Mid/Treble
All these have to do is intergrate well with the 88dB/W
woofer, noting that its effectively 85dB/W per channel.
The bass drivers upper mid peak means you need
to cross it low, so sealed back mids are out.
Umming and aaing - I'd suggest two of these :
$15 each but no c/o from Speaker Stuff
Put them in 3L sealed, left and right of the sub.
Use the c/o detailed on the page
3)Amplification
I'd suggest using a 4 channel car amplifier with built in active
crossovers to integrate the bass unit to the mid/treble section.
4)Alternatives (simpler and cheaper)
Drop the sub. Use the car audio 6.5", 1" and c/o I linked to earlier.
http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-ZRS-65K...r_Speakers&hash=item45fb7079a6#ht_3498wt_1101
(It has a nice facility to adjust the tweeter levels, easily modded.)
Use the Lepai class T amplifier, battery and charger mentioned before.
Cabinet is a guess, I'd say 1 - 1.5 cuft split between the two, again tuned 33 -40Hz.
If you go for 4) then use the sub with a plate amplifier, in a bigger box vented
and with sattelites, I'd severely suggest : Zaph|Audio - 4" Bargain Mini
not very portable but then again quality never is.
rgds, sreten.
My favourite suitcase system was a suit case which contained two small speakers and a 2.1 amplifier
in foam cutouts. After removing the speakers and amplifier and setting them up the suitcase was now
the sub box, as it had additionally the sub driver internally mounted. Lots of variations of this.
But note it wasn't battery powered and rechargeable, just a quality travelling system.
Last edited:
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