TK2050 vs TDA7498

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Hi.

I am looking at getting a new amp. The recommended amp power for my speakers is in the 25 - 150W range, so I'll aim for a 2x100W unit.

Sure offers two different 2x100W models. One based on the TK2050, the other based on the TDA7498. Anyone got an informed opinion on which one to choose? Or failing that, just an opinion? :)

I have not bought a PSU yet, so that is not a deciding factor. Great audio when playing and utter silence when not, would be useful criteria for me. I assume the fan assembly on either amp is temperature-controlled?

To demonstrate my n00bishness further, I'll offer one more question: can I avoid driving the amplifier into the non-linear range by "undersizing" the PSU? I.e. for example using a 18V or 24V PSU (but with with sufficient current) for a TK2050 unit.

Thanks,

Dag B
 
Hi.

I am looking at getting a new amp. The recommended amp power for my speakers is in the 25 - 150W range, so I'll aim for a 2x100W unit.

Sure offers two different 2x100W models. One based on the TK2050, the other based on the TDA7498. Anyone got an informed opinion on which one to choose? Or failing that, just an opinion? :)

I have not bought a PSU yet, so that is not a deciding factor. Great audio when playing and utter silence when not, would be useful criteria for me. I assume the fan assembly on either amp is temperature-controlled?

To demonstrate my n00bishness further, I'll offer one more question: can I avoid driving the amplifier into the non-linear range by "undersizing" the PSU? I.e. for example using a 18V or 24V PSU (but with with sufficient current) for a TK2050 unit.

Thanks,

Dag B

+1 I have the same question
 
I would pick the TK2050. The TDA chip does not have as good S/N and channel seperation. Also the switching frequency is much better on the TK2050 which should provide better SQ due to more class A looking signals, relatively.
THD vs. frequency is also more benign on the TK2050 and overall I personally really like the sound of this chip.
 
BTW I would stay away from active cooling unless you drive it from a seperate circuit. The sure has room for improvement (change of caps, change to pasive heatsink etc.). If you are looking for a pre-made tripath amp, look at Hifimediy or Connex also. Arjen also have some good amps but with lower power and inferior controllers as per memory. 41hz sells kits you need to solder yourself.
 
crosstalk and distortion isn't great on that one either. It goes little more than 20 watts at 25V before THD goes through the roof.

My personal opinion is that for the money vs SQ you can't do better that the T-amps. Just be aware that if you need clean power to X watts then aim for a 2*X watt rating as the T-amps increase in distortion rapidly after roughly half of the max power rating.

For your need I would look into a TK2050 solution like the Sure http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1133 (if you're up to soldering a bit yourself and on a budget), a hifimediy solution which comes prebuilt and is good quality Hifimediy|Amplifiers or a 41hz solution if you're up to the task of making the amp from scratch (amp4 would be a good choice 41Hz Audio:AMP4 kit).
 
BTW I would stay away from active cooling unless you drive it from a seperate circuit. The sure has room for improvement (change of caps, change to pasive heatsink etc.). If you are looking for a pre-made tripath amp, look at Hifimediy or Connex also. Arjen also have some good amps but with lower power and inferior controllers as per memory. 41hz sells kits you need to solder yourself.

Thank you for your advice. Very much appreciated.

I don't need an amp that goes to eleven. Going to 10 and playing clean is perfectly OK. So I am thinking....
If I drive my TK2050 with 24V and ensure clean input, I'd have a 2x35W amplifier with next to no distortion. (8 ohm speakers, Audio Pro Black Pearl V.3 for anyone interested.).
For this I need a 24V, x Ampere PSU. What is a suggested safe minimum for x? Would a 120-150W 24V laptop brick do the trick for me? 24V, 5A.

How do I best 'clamp' the amplifier to stay below the output level where distortion becomes an issue and/or below the level where my PSU runs out of steam? Is that even doable in a meaningful way?
And would this allow me to run with passive cooling only?

Thanks,

Dag B
 
Beside the chip, the quality of the PSU is important too. A laptop brick will produce some decent sound but if you want the best sound out of your amp, you should pick a good PSU such as a Meanwell or a Connex. Considering the price of those, the saving you make with a laptop brick is not worth it.

For the power rating, I would recommend at least 10A to have enough headroom. Considering the price of a combo 2x100W + Meanwell 27V 13A from Sure, once more the saving on a lower power or lower quality PSU is not worth it. Also, you have to consider you may want one day to use this amp with speakers with higher power rating so you better design the amp to get the max out of it from the beginning.
 
BTW I would stay away from active cooling unless you drive it from a seperate circuit. The sure has room for improvement (change of caps, change to pasive heatsink etc.). If you are looking for a pre-made tripath amp, look at Hifimediy or Connex also. Arjen also have some good amps but with lower power and inferior controllers as per memory. 41hz sells kits you need to solder yourself.

I've been reading. And googling. And reading some more. On repeat.

From reading Hifimediy|Hifimediy T1 ALPS sta510A 2*100W@8ohm amplifier,
I realize there are two main differences between TK2050 designs: built for 4 ohm or 8 ohm speakers. Either design works with 4 and 8 ohm speakers. But an '8 ohm design' works better with 8 ohm speakers, in terms of output power/efficiency/cooling requirements. If I have misunderstood anything here, I would love to be corrected.

I find TK2050 amps from:
Sure
41Hz
Hifimediy
Helder Hifi
Dayton

of which only Hifimediy bothers to elaborate slightly on this difference. And promote amps specifically built for 8 ohm.
Are there others with TK2050-based, prebuilt units with a similar design to Hifimediy T1 (ALPS sta510a)?

And finally: if I would like to go the route with monoblocks mounted on/embedded in speakers, what would you audio nerds suggest in the 100W range? Looking at $35-60 per channel. I am not necessarily married to the TK2050.


Thanks,

Dag B
 
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