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Old 5th August 2012, 06:40 PM   #511
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by momomo67890 View Post
cut the tops off the caps and the real maker of each cap will be reveled . the tops being the fake plastic disk ontop.
I'm certainly not naive to believe there are no fake components being used on all matter of boards from Asia or other places. But why would someone go to all the trouble of producing a super quality board and then place second rate, or inferior components on it? Profit you say...

Even in China it's in no ones best interest to build inferior parts just to save a couple nickels. We're living in the internet age where information travels in milliseconds not weeks. Word gets around real fast about bad products - and good. If these caps were know to cause fires - even anecdotally - the manufacturers reputation would be at risk and board makers would find other suppliers - real fast.

But I'll take you at your word and the next time I order any e-caps I'll order an extra one for purposes of destroying it just to identify the real manufacturer. Can you post a picture of one with the top removed revealing the manufacturers name?
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Old 5th August 2012, 06:44 PM   #512
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Originally Posted by redjr View Post
I'm certainly not naive to believe there are no fake components being used on all matter of boards from Asia or other places. But why would someone go to all the trouble of producing a super quality board and then place second rate, or inferior components on it? Profit you say...

Even in China it's in no ones best interest to build inferior parts just to save a couple nickels. We're living in the internet age where information travels in milliseconds not weeks. Word gets around real fast about bad products - and good. If these caps were know to cause fires - even anecdotally - the manufacturers reputation would be at risk and board makers would find other supplier - real fast.

But I'll take you at your word and the next time I order any e-caps I'll order an extra one for purposes of destroying it just to identify the real manufacturer.

were not talking a few nickles 10kuf 80v 105c caps arent cheap. $7 each x6 per board thats $42 on caps on your $32 ebay item.
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Old 5th August 2012, 06:45 PM   #513
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I was asking that very question until I got some fake 2N2222 transistors...

That is what I call extreme faking...
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Old 5th August 2012, 07:19 PM   #514
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Originally Posted by momomo67890 View Post
were not talking a few nickles 10kuf 80v 105c caps arent cheap. $7 each x6 per board thats $42 on caps on your $32 ebay item.
Well I'm sure anyone building these boards is buying the components in bulk - whomever the manufacturer is, so the piece part cost is much lower. I didn't buy mine for $32. It was more like $48 I think.

However, you've piqued my interest sufficiently enough so now I'm going to investigate further this particular Rubycon 10,000mfd 80v e-cap.
I trust my relationship with my preferred eBay vendor whom I have purchased hundreds of dollars worth of parts, kits and pre-assembled modules from. None of which I've ever had any issues with - either quality-wise, or performance-wise. If anything, and it turns out these caps are fake I would be surprised. He may be unwittingly 'taken' too. I hope not.
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Old 5th August 2012, 09:47 PM   #515
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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I went and opened up my amp to check the caps on my PSU module and luckily they are Nippon Chemi-Con electrolytics. So, at least from my vendor he is supplying Nippons and not Rubycons. I don't know how pervasive the Nippons are being counterfeit, but according to Google there are some out there. I'll let this thread get back on track. Apologizes.
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Old 6th August 2012, 01:19 PM   #516
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After a weekend of hard work I finally "upgraded" my previous DIY amp and gave the L20d a try.
PSU is a connex SMPS800R @ +/- 60V (my speakers are closer to 5 than to 7 ohms, despite being rated at 8), I throw in a speaker protection board and turned on:
WOW, I have to say that's a little great amp board, with plenty of reserves for my 86 db/W speakers, the bass is rock solid, the highs airy, the stage a lot better than my previous TK2050.

The two boards heat up a lot more than my previous amp (more in a separated thread after some more listening sessions), meaning that efficiency is quite lover (but its a +/- 60V rail amp versus a +36V single rail amp, so it's not fair, and air temp is about 30șC) but, after a night of listening I would say that's a very good implementation of the IRS2092 design.

Good job LJM, more news to come.
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Old 16th August 2012, 02:32 PM   #517
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Originally Posted by ljm_ljm View Post
L20D or L25D will need to DC +-60 V DC voltage. In front can get the wiring diagram.

About your voltage AC22-0-22, indeed. TA2022 may be more appropriate it. It's very simple.
Hi Jim, I have also a powersupply question. I want to use 1 of my 2 highend toroidals (450 VA) for my L25D boards I recently bought. These are dual supply 36-0-36 and 6-0-6 output. When I add in series I achieve 42-0-42 and total DC about 59-0-59 Volts ... Would this work with the L25D ?

Thanks
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Old 16th August 2012, 03:04 PM   #518
alkasar is offline alkasar  France
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Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
Hi Jim, I have also a powersupply question. I want to use 1 of my 2 highend toroidals (450 VA) for my L25D boards I recently bought. These are dual supply 36-0-36 and 6-0-6 output. When I add in series I achieve 42-0-42 and total DC about 59-0-59 Volts ... Would this work with the L25D ?

Thanks
are you sure the 36V and 6V outputs have the same current rating ? (same wires) typically, on such transformer, the power rating of each secondary is different.
6V output is typically for lower current needs, usually built with a thiner wire than the high power 36V output.
If wires don't have the same gauge on each secondary, if you put them in series, available power will be limited by the weakest.
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Old 16th August 2012, 09:34 PM   #519
cwier60 is offline cwier60  United States
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Originally Posted by alkasar View Post
are you sure the 36V and 6V outputs have the same current rating ? (same wires) typically, on such transformer, the power rating of each secondary is different.
6V output is typically for lower current needs, usually built with a thiner wire than the high power 36V output.
If wires don't have the same gauge on each secondary, if you put them in series, available power will be limited by the weakest.
In addition, the secondaries are probably center-tapped, 36-0-36 & 6-0-6, as you have described. Therefore, you can't put them in series and have access to the "center". You would get 48-0-36 or any other variant of 36-0-36-6-0-6. If the secondaries are isolated, then you could put them in series as you have suggested. However, alkasar's comment about the current rating is the overriding limitation.
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Old 17th August 2012, 05:02 AM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alkasar View Post
are you sure the 36V and 6V outputs have the same current rating ? (same wires) typically, on such transformer, the power rating of each secondary is different.
6V output is typically for lower current needs, usually built with a thiner wire than the high power 36V output.
If wires don't have the same gauge on each secondary, if you put them in series, available power will be limited by the weakest.
Here is an pic attachement with 30 V main voltage shown as example instead 36 in my case. The 6 V wires are definetly mentioned to inrease or reduce the 30 V. This toroidal is sold only for highend pursposes. 8 wires out. All same thickness.
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File Type: jpeg NTLN.jpeg (36.6 KB, 783 views)
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