thanks for clarification. I had asked this same question of Viktor.
I got a 30w panel because it was only a few bucks more than a 20w, and similar size.
I am not mounting on the unit, so I figured a slightly bigger one would be okay.
I thought maybe it will put out more power in a given amount of sun? So more likely to be at max potential...but maybe this thinking is not correct...
Also, where might one find appropriate cable management and such for a CAMP mounted in a Hammond?
Any photos of this stuff beyond what we see here: DIY UNF : The Amp Enclosure
I am looking for a slightly bigger enclosure, probably the one with the flange, for easy mounting, but not sure what proper terminal barrier strip is appropriate for CAMP in small enclosure.
any thoughts on the better sized hammond case than the 1590n? enough room for wiring, but still will fit in compartment and allow access after assembly?
best to use the strips mounted to box as shown in link above or use glands and run cables to external barrier strip in compartment some place?
would it be problematic to put ALL internal boards in same larger hammond box? was thinking of putting crossovers in there too if it would fit, just one big box in compartment along with battery...
internal boominator wiring photos are hard to find.
I got a 30w panel because it was only a few bucks more than a 20w, and similar size.
I am not mounting on the unit, so I figured a slightly bigger one would be okay.
I thought maybe it will put out more power in a given amount of sun? So more likely to be at max potential...but maybe this thinking is not correct...
Also, where might one find appropriate cable management and such for a CAMP mounted in a Hammond?
Any photos of this stuff beyond what we see here: DIY UNF : The Amp Enclosure
I am looking for a slightly bigger enclosure, probably the one with the flange, for easy mounting, but not sure what proper terminal barrier strip is appropriate for CAMP in small enclosure.
any thoughts on the better sized hammond case than the 1590n? enough room for wiring, but still will fit in compartment and allow access after assembly?
best to use the strips mounted to box as shown in link above or use glands and run cables to external barrier strip in compartment some place?
would it be problematic to put ALL internal boards in same larger hammond box? was thinking of putting crossovers in there too if it would fit, just one big box in compartment along with battery...
internal boominator wiring photos are hard to find.
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No development has happened on that card in a year or more. I built a prototype for the card, but I wasn't happy with how it worked out - the audio output has pops/cracks when the output voltage is varied. Secondly, one of the big plans for the DSP was to have it do psychoacoustic bass enhancement - I did a bit of experimentation with this, but never came up with something I really liked the sound of.
Once I get a couple other projects off my plate (I'm doing a big "Wiener" amplifier build right now) I'm planning on starting a bluetooth-input version of the cAMP. I may revisit the DSP idea in the future after that.
Damnit.
TAS5768M looks great, it's pretty much a TPA3118 with a built in DAC and DSP, and it pairs up perfectly with an I2S output capable bluetooth module like a WT32i. It even does some psychoacoustic bass stuff inside. Pretty much a perfect chip for the job.
I need TI's tools to program the thing. Standard procedure to get those tools is to apply to their sales team with estimated volumes, etc... which then gives you permission to buy about $600 worth of evaluation boards from them, after which point you get the development software. Meanwhile I can buy the damn chips, single quantity, at Digikey/Mouser. WTF.
I wrote them an e-mail explaining what I'm trying to do and begging for the software tools, no response so far.
TAS5768M looks great, it's pretty much a TPA3118 with a built in DAC and DSP, and it pairs up perfectly with an I2S output capable bluetooth module like a WT32i. It even does some psychoacoustic bass stuff inside. Pretty much a perfect chip for the job.
I need TI's tools to program the thing. Standard procedure to get those tools is to apply to their sales team with estimated volumes, etc... which then gives you permission to buy about $600 worth of evaluation boards from them, after which point you get the development software. Meanwhile I can buy the damn chips, single quantity, at Digikey/Mouser. WTF.
I wrote them an e-mail explaining what I'm trying to do and begging for the software tools, no response so far.
Gmarsh, you can easily get access to PurePathConsole2 which can be used to program the TAS5754M which has pretty much the same functions as the TAS5768M and also uses ternary (1SPW) modulation. Biquad filtering, psychoacoustic and dynamic boosting, low BoM(cost), digital input, smooth clipping... That's a lot of value, only the price of the PurePathConsole motherboard kind of rules out personal use.
TAS5754M has better documentation and availability. I've sent TI a mail about the advantage of the 5768, as I can't really find it.
TAS5754M has better documentation and availability. I've sent TI a mail about the advantage of the 5768, as I can't really find it.
Hi Gmash,
Just wondering how much contact you have with canopysound.dk?
I am trying to get one of your amps, but unfortunately I live in Australia, which they do not offer shipping to directly. I have tried contacting them using their email and their online contact form, but I have not heard anything. Just wondering if you are able to get in contact with them to see if they can ship to Australia?
If not, that's fine, I just thought I would check in. Really keen on your chip!
Kirt
Just wondering how much contact you have with canopysound.dk?
I am trying to get one of your amps, but unfortunately I live in Australia, which they do not offer shipping to directly. I have tried contacting them using their email and their online contact form, but I have not heard anything. Just wondering if you are able to get in contact with them to see if they can ship to Australia?
If not, that's fine, I just thought I would check in. Really keen on your chip!
Kirt
Does any one have any contact with the people at Canopysound.dk? I have a C-Amp that has failed and would like to get it repaired. I have been in contact with them through Facebook but they have stopped replying to my messages. Also it seems as if their website is offline. If anyone has any information that may help it would be appreciated.
TC
TC
It just stopped working one day. I have a switch from the battery to the amp. I went to turn it on but I had no light from the status LED and no audio output. The amp is still receiving 12v. No signs of blown components or physical damage to the board. I don't know what else to test for?
Lay the card out, "cAMP" text up, like this picture:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...lt-boominator-pcb-project-33.html#post4391228
Apply +12V to the battery input of the card. If you're using a battery, make sure it's fused. Hold negative lead of the DMM to battery negative, solar negative, USB +5V negative or one of the corner holes.
Probe both sides of R11, above the cAMP text - you should measure 12V on both sides (this is a sanity check for the 12V supply)
Probe pin 2 (upper left) of the J2 header, just below ".dk" in the canopysound.dk text. You should measure 5V, or something near it (4.9-5.1V). If not, U3 is probably toast.
If it measures fine, probe pin 5 (lower right) of the same header. Assuming you're using a digital DMM, you should measure somewhere around 5V - possibly a little less, depending on how much the DMM loads the circuit. If this is zero volts or close to it, U5 (microcontroller) is probably toast.
Take those measurements and let me know how you make out, we'll take it from there.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...lt-boominator-pcb-project-33.html#post4391228
Apply +12V to the battery input of the card. If you're using a battery, make sure it's fused. Hold negative lead of the DMM to battery negative, solar negative, USB +5V negative or one of the corner holes.
Probe both sides of R11, above the cAMP text - you should measure 12V on both sides (this is a sanity check for the 12V supply)
Probe pin 2 (upper left) of the J2 header, just below ".dk" in the canopysound.dk text. You should measure 5V, or something near it (4.9-5.1V). If not, U3 is probably toast.
If it measures fine, probe pin 5 (lower right) of the same header. Assuming you're using a digital DMM, you should measure somewhere around 5V - possibly a little less, depending on how much the DMM loads the circuit. If this is zero volts or close to it, U5 (microcontroller) is probably toast.
Take those measurements and let me know how you make out, we'll take it from there.
Hi Gmash,
Just received my cAMP from Canopy (Thanks guys, they were very helpful in adding Australia to their shipping routes etc for me!). Just had a couple of quick questions, I have looked through the thread, but I am a little confused on a couple of simple things.
I am using a SLA battery, just wanted to confirm the DIP switches should be set to Dp & normal, is that correct? (They come preset to LiFe & Normal). Battery input is fuses, Do you recommend fusing the solar input also?
And finally, and probably my least obvious question, I have an old wiring diagram for the cAMP and the speakers, along with filtering etc, and I just wandered if it is still current, while looking for the Dip Switch info, I noticed you speaking about a built in filter, just wanting to confirm this has not changed (Picture attached).
Oh, P.S, I am using this image to do the wiring diagram (I have plug in circuits for all my panels etc, to make the project as modular as possible), just wanted to know if it's still relevant (The terminals cover the text, so it's just to make sure I don't mix up the inputs).
Thank you!
Just received my cAMP from Canopy (Thanks guys, they were very helpful in adding Australia to their shipping routes etc for me!). Just had a couple of quick questions, I have looked through the thread, but I am a little confused on a couple of simple things.
I am using a SLA battery, just wanted to confirm the DIP switches should be set to Dp & normal, is that correct? (They come preset to LiFe & Normal). Battery input is fuses, Do you recommend fusing the solar input also?
And finally, and probably my least obvious question, I have an old wiring diagram for the cAMP and the speakers, along with filtering etc, and I just wandered if it is still current, while looking for the Dip Switch info, I noticed you speaking about a built in filter, just wanting to confirm this has not changed (Picture attached).
Oh, P.S, I am using this image to do the wiring diagram (I have plug in circuits for all my panels etc, to make the project as modular as possible), just wanted to know if it's still relevant (The terminals cover the text, so it's just to make sure I don't mix up the inputs).
Thank you!
Hey guys. I've started acquiring parts to build my Boominator. I've had some difficulty getting everything together in the United States, but managed to place orders for all the necessary drivers. It doesn't appear that Canopy Sound ships to California, but I'd like to get a cAMP as that seems like the best option after reading through various threads for hours and hours the last week or so. Any help on acquiring one in the USA?
Sure offers something quite similar:
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 30 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board BT 4.0 APT-X - TPA3118
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 30 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board BT 4.0 APT-X - TPA3118
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