Hi guys!
I asked you about attenuator. Could someone answer another question? What Power Supply module is better for NC400: 2 x SMPS600 or
1 x SMPS1200A700 will be enough? Is there any difference in sound between SMPS600 and SMPS1200A700?
In internet I saw both implimentations. But SMPS600 were used offer.
I asked you about attenuator. Could someone answer another question? What Power Supply module is better for NC400: 2 x SMPS600 or
1 x SMPS1200A700 will be enough? Is there any difference in sound between SMPS600 and SMPS1200A700?
In internet I saw both implimentations. But SMPS600 were used offer.
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The SMPS600 is made specifically for the NC400 amp and the two connect together very easily. Unless you plan to use the SMPS for an alternative project in future my advice would be to stick with the 600s. I do have a pair of nCores each with their own SMPS600. I asked the same question to Hypex myself and their advice was clear.
Dont know about the 1200 but I noticed some differences between the 600 and 400 atleast on the auxiliary output stage, the 600 seems to have a CLCLC output filter there where the 400 looks like having just a C. Havent looked very carefully yet but quite sure there are more differences to be found..
Hi,
Just receieved 2XNC400+2XSMPS600 & now waiting for chassis to arrive to build into 2 mono-block.
A quick question to those already built & enjoying the amp now.
The supplied wires - do any one of you guys change these wires to a thicker one ??
NOTE: I'm looking specifically at the AC line (only AWG18) & the main DC line (only AWG20). Thinking of changing both to AWG14 or maybe even AWG12 wires.
Just receieved 2XNC400+2XSMPS600 & now waiting for chassis to arrive to build into 2 mono-block.
A quick question to those already built & enjoying the amp now.
The supplied wires - do any one of you guys change these wires to a thicker one ??
NOTE: I'm looking specifically at the AC line (only AWG18) & the main DC line (only AWG20). Thinking of changing both to AWG14 or maybe even AWG12 wires.
Try to use Radox HUBER+SUHNER 125 (150). This is MILITARY grade wires. Very ... very nice for power lines. And it's no need to use thick ones: 0.5 - 1 mm will be enough.
For special military grade electrons?
As far as I understand, it is pretty normal power wire, but with an official fire retardant classification. Not being on fire is usually a good idea.
Are you talking about diameter or area? A 0.5 mm diameter cable has a current capacity of only 3.5 A or so.
For special military grade electrons?
As far as I understand, it is pretty normal power wire, but with an official fire retardant classification. Not being on fire is usually a good idea.
Are you talking about diameter or area? A 0.5 mm diameter cable has a current capacity of only 3.5 A or so.
RADOX 125
• excellent high and low temperature and ozone resistance
• weatherproof
• halogen free
• flexible, easy to strip and process
• flame retardant
• high resistance to thermal pressure
• high abrasion resistance
• oil–resistant
resistance ... resistance. Strained copper, designs for electrical equipment, switchboards, white goods and lighting fixtures. Small diameter could pass high voltage: Test voltage .. 0.50 mm2 3500 V AC. Is that bad?
Yes. But do you need oil resistance? How often do you have oil leaks inside your amp?
Your list does not include electrical DC resistance or impedance - the most important parameters.
Small diameter could pass high voltage: Test voltage .. 0.50 mm2 3500 V AC. Is that bad?
Diameter doesn't matter for voltage (and would you have high voltages inside your amp anyway?), but it definitely matters for current. How many amps do you think 0.5 mm2 can carry? My wiring handbook states 12 A for a single conductor in free air at 30 C, but only 3 A if part of a multi-conductor cable. Even the cords for domestic table lamps etc. tend to be 0.75m2.
3.5A. If you draw that at the amp on the primary side either you have VERY inefficient speakers or your hearing is not so good...
And wire size is based upon distance to maintain an acceptable voltage. In most cases less than a foot for an amp or pre...
EDIT: I'm pretty sure Bruno knows what the wire size requirements were.. He's pretty thorough..
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WHAT?
Assuming the US 110 V mains voltage, 3.5A only gives you 385 W. Considering the SMPS600 is rated at 600W output, you would definitely exceed the 3.5 A rating even assuming 100% efficiency. Of course the cable rating is for continuous current - I agree we won't be playing our amps at full volume continuously. The question becomes one of resistance - the thinner the wire, the higher the resistance. At what point does the power supply or amp become supply-resistance bound? In any case, while I feel there is no need for thicker-than-standard wires, I wouldn't go too much thinner either.
Is it? Resistance is based on distance, but power rating is usually based on thermal limitations, and they are distance-independent beyond very short distances.
I agree with you. No electrical or EMI resistance. But I don't know simple wires which has that protection.
This is cheap, reliable, multicore cable.
I think we are struggling with two different meanings of the word "resistance". One is "The act of resisting, or the capacity to resist" (as in your example of resistance against EMI), the other is electrical resistance, defined as "the property of a conductor due to which it opposes the flow of current through it", and measured in Ohm.
Just want to find out what you guys use for the pre-amp & speaker for the Ncore amp.
At the present moment, I do not have a proper stereo pre-amp.
But have a old int amp (MusicalFidelity A5.5) & Kef Q700 speaker.
Thinking of getting a fully balance pre-amp for the Ncore.
Source is OPPO 105 BR player (think is also fully balance).
At the present moment, I do not have a proper stereo pre-amp.
But have a old int amp (MusicalFidelity A5.5) & Kef Q700 speaker.
Thinking of getting a fully balance pre-amp for the Ncore.
Source is OPPO 105 BR player (think is also fully balance).
No pre-amp, I just use a streamer feeding a digital crossover for my nCores.
ncore and power outage
my power grid is unreliable with several blackouts a day. how does the ncore react with power outage / blackouts ? will it cause damage to the amp or speakers ? (loud pop?) do i need a extra protection circuit then?
i will use a power inspired ag1500 ac regenerator (but without a battery) for better ac quality with 1500VA for 2 ncore monos and a pair of current hungry magnepan mg12 magnetostatic speakers.
would you place the monos direct behind the magnepans to have the speaker cable as short as possible or would you place them further away in one dual mono enclosure because of microphonic or electrostatic interference from the speakers?
i would like to make a hotrodded version of the ncores (no binding posts/iec outlet/power switches). any reason against it (aside reselling chances)?
is there a tutorial for the ncore build for people who wont scroll through 700+ pages? if not would you please post the most important ones for me ?
enclosure (damping, shielding, spiking, aluminium or wood enclosure, links?)
cables (speaker cables, power cables (Lapp olflex 110 or 891), solder)
twisting and best placement for power, speaker, xlr cables? ...
(i will build and buy the parts in EUROPE)
my power grid is unreliable with several blackouts a day. how does the ncore react with power outage / blackouts ? will it cause damage to the amp or speakers ? (loud pop?) do i need a extra protection circuit then?
i will use a power inspired ag1500 ac regenerator (but without a battery) for better ac quality with 1500VA for 2 ncore monos and a pair of current hungry magnepan mg12 magnetostatic speakers.
would you place the monos direct behind the magnepans to have the speaker cable as short as possible or would you place them further away in one dual mono enclosure because of microphonic or electrostatic interference from the speakers?
i would like to make a hotrodded version of the ncores (no binding posts/iec outlet/power switches). any reason against it (aside reselling chances)?
is there a tutorial for the ncore build for people who wont scroll through 700+ pages? if not would you please post the most important ones for me ?
enclosure (damping, shielding, spiking, aluminium or wood enclosure, links?)
cables (speaker cables, power cables (Lapp olflex 110 or 891), solder)
twisting and best placement for power, speaker, xlr cables? ...
(i will build and buy the parts in EUROPE)
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If it is a proper outage, it does a proper soft start cycle, no prob. Haven't really tested what happens with brownouts.
Why are you using the regenerator? Is the power "dirty" besides being unreliable?
I would try to keep speaker cables as short as possible.
Any reasons for it?
The Hypex data sheet has pretty much all the info you need.
Definitely recommend metal instead of wood.
Thick enough cables is the most important one.
I recommend diligently following the twisting advice in the Hypex documentation.
My sincere apologies if this has been asked and answered in this thread or any of the others. I did my best to search.
My question is, what is the appropriate connection between a DAC and the Hypex amps when they are in the same chassis? It would be nice to know
1) Single ended vs differential, and
2) If there is any difference in recommendation between ncore and ucd.
All the info I found so far refers to chassis connections, assuming the signal comes from the outside. I will be using transformer-isolated SPDIF inputs, so there won´t be any external ground inputs.
Btw - I will use Class 2 construction.
My question is, what is the appropriate connection between a DAC and the Hypex amps when they are in the same chassis? It would be nice to know
1) Single ended vs differential, and
2) If there is any difference in recommendation between ncore and ucd.
All the info I found so far refers to chassis connections, assuming the signal comes from the outside. I will be using transformer-isolated SPDIF inputs, so there won´t be any external ground inputs.
Btw - I will use Class 2 construction.
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