Well, I'm just in your target. I'm French. I love good vine. i was sound engineer and audio designer, and i want to know why resistances can sound different, because if you don't know why, you don't know how to chose them.Loads of people can't tell the difference between a Syrah from Australia and one from France (or even a Syrah from France and a Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia...)
But I don't want a discussion started about WHY cables and/or resistors do sound different. I don't care.
I just wanted to tell that you CAN practice the listening skills as you can practice the tasting skills, just my opinion that is.
And about vines and cepages, they taste different, BECAUSE they measure different in chemical analyses. We are in a DIYer forum, and, like vine producers, in concern with the good and faster way to elaborate our products.
EOT on this subject for me.
Well....
By this analogy, Fuses could sound different because of the different metallurgy of the end caps and element then
By this analogy, Fuses could sound different because of the different metallurgy of the end caps and element then
And, they can, not because of the caps but because the thermal behavior of the alloy changing their resistance value.By this analogy, Fuses could sound different because of the different metallurgy of the end caps and element then
Now we have to look at the overall system to see their influence and order of magnitude of the added distortion, as previously mentioned.
If the amp have a x% negative feedback factor, their influence will be divided by x. If the change of their value is 1/10 of the non linearity of the output devices, better to concentrate on those.
No need to use a great and very expensive wine in a 'Coq au vin' (Rooster cooked with wine).
An easy way to practise is to use so-called poor recordings, they make differences extremely obvious; the intermodulation between the recording distortion and the system playback distortion creates very different spectrums of incorrect frequencies, making it easy to spot what's going on ...
Frank
Yes you may be right. I'm not sure of how many DB's they were putting out but yes they were playing very loud when the fuses blew. I'm pretty sure they are 104db/1 w efficiency.
Hey guys, trying to do some troubleshooting and had a question for those of you that own ncores. When powering cycling the amps without anything connected to the amp other then the speakers are you guys experiencing any light popping at power up and power down?
When the amp is powered up, speakers connected but no input, are you guys getting static/white noise when you put your ear near the tweeter?
I'm just trying to figure a few things out and some are saying they get dead silence at the tweeter with the amp on and no source and some are saying the static/white noise is normal. Just wanted to see what others with ncores are experiencing.
Thanks
When the amp is powered up, speakers connected but no input, are you guys getting static/white noise when you put your ear near the tweeter?
I'm just trying to figure a few things out and some are saying they get dead silence at the tweeter with the amp on and no source and some are saying the static/white noise is normal. Just wanted to see what others with ncores are experiencing.
Thanks
The amount of static/ white noise would be extremely variable depending on the efficiency of the speakers and the state of the mains power and also the earthing strategy? As a rule with these amps - they are designed to exhibit a very low noise floor - you should be able to hear a slight hiss at very close proximity to the speakers - however they should be dead quiet at the normal listening position unless the speakers are >say 95db efficient.
Mine are absolutely quiet, but I have lowered the gain as I am driving mine with "pro" voltage levels.
Do you still get the noise/hiss if you short the inputs together?
I would suggest trying to shift the cable runs, and maybe the position and orientation of the amp modules in relation to the power supplies at least temporarily to see if it makes any difference to the hiss/noise.
I know it is a hassle, but I would actually take the modules back out of your enclosure, and just assemble the circuit on a table with everything as far from each other as possible, to hear if you still get the hiss (and see if changing their orientation with respect to each other makes any difference).
My mid and woofers are dead silent, just noise from the tweeter. Also I get popping when cycling the amps on/off without any input connected.
Julf, good idea, somebody else mentioned double checking all connections/grounding inside enclosures.
Right now I do not have earth/ground connected to the case, should I ground the case to earth?
As in house/mains earth? No, I wouldn't, but I would make sure the case is connected to pin1 of your XLR connector (and pin 4 / ground on the nCore input plug - the shield on the input cable).
Noise
You are getting the noise from the amp and/or power supply.
Check in this order.
1. Audio input wires are shielded and away from other noise sources on the boards.
2. Move your boards away from the inputs. You might have just the right amount of interaction. You can try shielding with foil.
3. Play with your grounding. You may have your circuits acting like a radio receiver. Try grounding the input XLR audio ground/Chassis pins. Try grounding the chassis to power supply ground, and so on.
You are getting the noise from the amp and/or power supply.
Check in this order.
1. Audio input wires are shielded and away from other noise sources on the boards.
2. Move your boards away from the inputs. You might have just the right amount of interaction. You can try shielding with foil.
3. Play with your grounding. You may have your circuits acting like a radio receiver. Try grounding the input XLR audio ground/Chassis pins. Try grounding the chassis to power supply ground, and so on.
this is interesting. my UCDs only output the slightest amount of noise that can only be heard ear against tweeter at max volume. and I'm not even sure its amp noise, it may be because of front end (DS1666 volume control). output wires running relatively close to input ones, not balanced, not shielded, not twisted. true, speakers are only 83 dB W/m.
Indeed - with a specified 124 dB SNR, pretty much any noise is an indication of some sort of abnormal issue.
Thanks for the replies guys.
I have adjusted the dc offset at both the input and output using r95 and r136. What does the third pot on the far side of the board do?
I guess I will also have to check all my grounding and wiring. I will take a picture when I get home from work and hopefully somebody more knowledgeable may be able to spot something troublesome.
ChrisPs - Can you explain the testing with a shorted input? I'm not sure I understand. Thanks.
I have adjusted the dc offset at both the input and output using r95 and r136. What does the third pot on the far side of the board do?
I guess I will also have to check all my grounding and wiring. I will take a picture when I get home from work and hopefully somebody more knowledgeable may be able to spot something troublesome.
ChrisPs - Can you explain the testing with a shorted input? I'm not sure I understand. Thanks.
short the input to the power amp
turn the power amp on
there should be no pops through the speaker
THe general consensus is also that there should be no audible hiss too
If there's a pop - then it implies there's something awry with the amplifier
A click form the module itself (not through the speaker) is to be expected
If there's hiss then it also impies there's something awry
If the pops and hiss reappear when you connect your upstream equipment, then it implies they're being caused/generated by the upstream equipment
turn the power amp on
there should be no pops through the speaker
THe general consensus is also that there should be no audible hiss too
If there's a pop - then it implies there's something awry with the amplifier
A click form the module itself (not through the speaker) is to be expected
If there's hiss then it also impies there's something awry
If the pops and hiss reappear when you connect your upstream equipment, then it implies they're being caused/generated by the upstream equipment
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